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THE ATTAINMENT OF 

Womanly Beauty 

OF 

FORM AND FEATURES 
The Cultivation of Personal Beauty 

BASED ON 

Hygiene and Health Culture 

BY 

Twenty Physicians and Specialists 
Edited by 

ALBERT TURNER 

The Publisher of Health Culture 

Fourth Edition 
revised and enlarged 



NEW YORK 

THE HEAIvTH-CUI/TURE COMPANY 

151 West 23D Street 

1904 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Copies Kiceived 

JAN 10 1905 
Copyrujni uiiry 

SUSS <*" XXc Noi 
/ o */ 3 S'7 
COPY B. 

B _ ■ ~-r^— 



COPYRIGHT, igoo, 

BY 

ALBERT TURNER. 

COPYRIGHT, 1904, 
BY 

ALBERT TURNER. 



PREFACE. 



There is in every well organized human being a 
desire to look well, to make a good impression, and 
this is and must be very largely based upon personal 
appearance. "Am I attractive?" is the almost uni- 
versal question in the maiden's bosom. A com- 
manding presence is the young man's ambition. 
, Beauty or strength presented in a physique free 
from excess or deficiency of proportion may well 
stand among the highest ambitions of any man or 
woman. 

No more pleasing or complimentary salutation is 
ever given or received than, "How well you are 
looking," but physical beauty often means more 
than mere personal gratification; it often means 
success in life's work. 

Beauty will often win its way while even greater 
merit in an unattractive presentation will be forced 
to- take a second place in the race. 

It is almost always true with women that an at- 
tractive personality is the most important element 
of success or failure in life. The young woman 
with a healthy, well poised, attractive figure, well 
kept features, good complexion and a hopeful view 
of life, which becomes a part of these conditions, is 
insured success in the social or business world as 
against the failure of the one who has lost her buoy- 



i PREFACE. 

ancy of spirit, with a drooping expression of count- 
enance, a prematurely aged and wrinkled face, sal- 
low and muddy complexion, poor, scant hair and 
a weak and wavering walk, from a lack of healthy 
activity. 

It is of great moment with many, particularlv so 
with women, who, by effort of head or hand, have 
to make their own way in the world for the main- 
tenance of themselves and others that all appear- 
ance of age shall be deferred as much as possible, 
especially in these times when in all walks of life, 
both for men and women, the services of the young 
are in demand as against age and experience. Often 
the matter of age is more in appearance than in 
fact, and it is true that "we are only as old as we 
look," therefore let us in every way defer the ap- 
pearance of age as much as possible. 

Recognizing the great importance of presenting 
and preserving a good personal appearance this 
manual has been prepared by securing contribu- 
tions for it from acknowledged experts on the pres- 
ervation Of health and cultivation of beauty of form 
and features, keeping in mind at all times the fact 
that health and beauty go hand in hand, and that 
true and lasting beauty must be based upon health 
of body and of mind, and that the highest type of 
beauty is an indication of perfect physical and men- 
tal organization, and these outward manifestations 
must be governed by a soul that is filled with a 
spirit of love and of kindness. 

The Editor. 



CONTENTS. 



PREFACE 7 

INTRODUCTION. By Ella Van Poole. The Power of Beauty 
—Beauty Denned— All Capable of Improvement— What 
Is Necessary 9 

WOMANLY BEAUTY, ITS ELEMENTS AND REQUIRE- 
MENTS. By Dr. D. H. Jacques. The Proper Propor- 
tions of the Human Figure— The Face and the Features 
—The Hair— The Neck and Shoulders— The Arms and 
Hands— The Limbs and Feet— The Skin— Beauty the 
Sign of Health 13 

BEAUTY OF WOMANKIND : WHY IT LASTS AND WHY 
IT FADES. By Dr. C. H. Stratz. of Holland. To Be 
Found in the Living Form, Not in Art— The Unit of 
Measurements With Diagram— Study of Special Features 
—Neck and Shoulders— Pre-Natal Influences— The Beauty 
Curve— Importance of Nourishment— Of Exercise— Prop- 
er Age for Marriage— Good and Bad Features, with 
Tahles of Classification 17 

TEMPERAMENTAL TYTES. By Sarah C. Tu nee. Physi- 
cal Conditions, Affecting Form— J he Motive Tempera- 
ment Described, With Its Peculiarities— The Vital Tem- 
perament the Best for Women, How Produced— The 
Mental Temperament, Nervous and Sensitive, How to 
Control and '-ovrn It Extremes Should be Modified, 
and How to Do It 27 

BUEATHHNTG AND BEAUTY. By W. R. C. Latson, M. D. 
Its Importance— Three Methods of Breathing— The Clav- 
icular— The Lateral— The Abdominal— A Correct Car- 
riage of the Body— Exercises for Carriage and Proper 
Breathing— Breathing Exercises for Health and I eauty, 35 

CURATIVE BREATHING. By Madame Donna Madixxa. 
A Personal Experience in Remedial Breathing— What 
Was Done— A Lesson for Frail Women 47 

SLEEP: ITS EFFECTS ON BEAUTY. By Ella Van Poole. 
Its Importance— Its Benefits— Resuls of Insufficient 
Sleep, How Indicated— How to Sleep, Preparations, Ne- 
cessary Conditions— Relaxation of Body and Mind, Di- 
rections—Rules to Follow- For Sufferers from Insom- 



vi CONTENTS. 

t&^w 1 ?^ 8 <? f P verc oming It-Regulation of Diet- 
Relieving the System of Accumulations-Massage, How 

to Apply It— Sundry Suggestions 58 

THE HOME A GYMNASIUM. By Mrs. O. V. Sessions Its 
« ^S2S-MlMt»tg by Mrs. Wise and Mrs Foolish 
-Mrs. Foolish's Bad Night's Rest-A Hard Day's Work 
-Improper Position in Work, in Sitting and Stair 
Climbing-Poor Food, Bad Digestion-A Nervous Hus- 
n? nd ^"A p h-vsical and Mental Wreck-Life a Failure- 
Mrs. Wise Understands Relaxation and Rest-Sleeps Well 
—Breathes Deeply-Keeps her Body in Good Poise While 
Doing Work-Takes Proper Periods for Rest-Sings for 
Strength-Work Easily and Well Pone-Life Full of 
Brightness and a Success— Importance of Exercise and 
Repose— Fully Illustrated with Drawings 57 

HEALTH AND BEAUTY. By Chas H. Rhepard M D A 
Letter of Inquiry as to the Preservation of Beauty The 
Answer— Suggestions as to Food— Exercise— Bathing— 
Sleep— The Emotions 77 

INFLUENCE I F THOUGHT UPON BEAUTY. By I r W 
R.C. LATSON. Form and Expression the two Elements' 
ot Beauty— The Genesis of Expression— The Underlying 
Mental sstate— Form and Feature, Partly inherited and 
Partly an Achievement— How the Features aiv Moulded 
-Lines, Their Causes, Meaning and Cure-The Most Im- 
portant Secret of Beauty 83 

FACIAL MASSAGE. Py Ella Van Poole. For the Preven- 
wKL « f ». Wl ?H n es »?£ 4f , e . ln the f'ace-What a Woman's 
Face Should Be-WhatGives it Form- What Causes It to 
Change-The Muscles of the Face and Their Uses— The 
Value of Massage-How It Should Be Applied t . Pieserve 
and Restire the Face— Directions for the Removal of 
Wrinkles-For Preserving Contour-For Removing 
Doubl- Chin— For Restoration of Neck When Abused bv 
High .Tight < ollars-The Use of Skin Food or Told Cream 
V ery fully illustrated with plates and half tones from life' 10S 

THE HAIR. ITS CARE AND CULTURE. By Albert Tur- 
?, ER - A r Go ?2 i eart of Hair Natural— Ana torn v of the 
£'un— Magnified Sections Showing Hair and How It Is 
Nourished— Why men Become Bal 1 More Than Women 
— Exereisin -the Scalp and Hair Roots— Massage for the 
Scalp. Illust ated 6 _ n9 

BUST DEVELOPMENT: HOW TO SECURE IT. Its Import- 
ance in Beauty and ns a Sign of Health— How toPromote 
It— Sugge tions to Mothers— Exercise— Massage 127 

CARE OF THE HANDS AND FEET. By Stella stxjaet 

Should Be Well Preserved-Red Hands-How to Wash 
the Hnnds-The Feet— A Natu-al Foot Verv Rare- A 
First Prize Foot, Illustrated from Life— Anatomv of the 
Feet— Radiograph of Woma >'s Foot in Fashionable Shoe 
—Foot Massage 233 



CONTENTS. vil 

EXERCISING FOR GRACE AND POISE. Necessary for 
Beauty, Whatls Needed— How to Acquire It— Right Kind 
of Exercise— The Importance of Apparatus. Iiiustrated. HI 

MECHANICAL AIDS TO NORMAL BREATHING. By W.R. 
C. Latson, M. D. The Importance of Breathing— Its 
Place in Some Religious Systems— The Effects of Deep 
Breathing— What Is Normal Breathing— The Difficulties 
Usually Found- Tne Advantages of a Breathing Tube- 
Exercises, with Illustrations 145 

HOW TO HAVE A GOOD COMPLEXION, By Susanna W. 
Dodds. M. D. A Good Complexion a Rarity— .^ome of 
the Causes for a Bad Complexion— What to Do to Over- 
come It— The Functions of the Skin— The Importance of 
Right Living— The Bathing and Care of the Face— Causes 
for Wrinkles 157 

BICYCLING AND BEAUTY. By Mary Sargent Hopkins. 
Wheeling as an Aid to Good Health— Proper Position 
is of Great Importance— One Should be Cautious in 
Riding Too Far an t Too Fast, Also in Climbing Hills 
—Suitable Dress— The Deleterious Effects of Wrong 
Riding, and the Many Advantages Derived From the 
Sensible Use of the Wheel— It Helps Digestion, Quickens 
the Circulation and Diverts the Mind, Thereby Giving 
Nature a Chance in Transforming the Sallow, Listless 
Woman, Into a Wholesome, Bright-Eyed Being, Beauti- 
ful With the Glow of Health 163 

EXERCISE-WHO NEEDS IT. THE BENEFITS— HOW TO 
TAKE IT. By Edward Warman. The Housewife— 
The Business Woman— The Clerk— .The Bicyclist— The 
Teacher, etc. THE BENEFITS— Obesity— Too Thin— The 
Liver— The Heart— The Lungs The Kidneys— Circula- 
tion— Dyspepsia— Constipation— Physical Beauty— How 
Not to Exercise— When to Exercise— How Much 171 

REDUCTION OF FLESH Fat-Producing Foods- Exercise- 
Massage Roller Treatment; How to Apply It^Six Inches 
Reduction in Three Months 183 

THE UGLY DUCKLING: A STORY. By Elsie Caemichael. 
Physical Enthusiasm— A Despairing Mother— A Sister's 
Interest— Mr. Monteith— A Winter From Home— The 
Change— A Surprise— The Mother's Pleasure— What Was 
Done 181 

PERFUMES AND HEALTH. Bv Felix L. Oswald, M. D. 
"Whatever Is Pleasant Is Wrong" Is Not True— "Per- 
fumery and Prayer" an Enjoinment of Mohammed— Na- 
poleon the First Used Eau de Cologne to Prevent Con- 
tagion—Per umes as a Protection Against Disease Germs 
—Glue Factories and Stock Yards— Bad Odors a Danger 
Signal— Unperverted Nerves a Safe Criterion— Patients 
Sent to Pine Woods and Flower Plantations— Sweet 
Herbs as an Incense Powder. ,,....,.,. ,, FI , , 201 



vm CONTENTS 

SOME SECRETS ABOUT A BEAUTIFTTT Mrnir t> t. 

VOICE AN ELEMENT OF BEAUTY Bv'ww'r'r '„"' 2 °° 

Voices-Faults of Vo"a-Th^rrn,f Xpr ^ m_The American 
ToneProduct\a-BreathTn| CaUSC and Cure -Mechanism of 
THE PROBLEM OF PHYSIC AT RW A TTTv " "i" "a" »" ' ', 215 

Higher Nature ShWtacSlt?^^? *"? S ' ste — Our 
THE CARE OF THE NFCK T?Tr c^ o 231 

lows-Exercises Illustrated the Fillingr in of Hol- 
WHAT MRS. LANGTRY SAYS AND DOFSrVtt'.' »"' 

BARD AVER-The SffrrtnfHrir • ,7 HaRR.F.T Hi 

Believes In-VVhat ^e^-DeSfK rfaVa^' w 

„ riT ^ rCiSe - CaMO,mH «'^SS y a Days Work. 

HEAL ^ JSMKSZ ^VnSrei^^ 

PATTI RETAINS HER BEAUTY. ByMrsLM^.^V 



lUB- 

She 



INTRODUCTION. 

By ELI.A Van Poole. 

The word "beauty" is an elastic word. It is ap- 
plied to' a rainbow, a blossoming orchard, the mid- 
night sky, a rain-drenched rose, or a woman's eye- 
lash. When earnest women, sincere in their 
theories and practice, enter upon the work of con- 
vincing women that it is wise and just and neces- 
sary to cultivate personal beauty, they are often 
confronted by the statement that it is a futile task 
in the case with most women, for there are so few 
"born beauties." In other words, there are so few 
women who have the foundation upon which to 
work to produce beautiful results. 

Granted. But that is no reason why all women 
should not make the very best of what Nature has 
allowed them; and the woman who has an inheri- 
tance in the shape of a nose which belonged to her 
grandfather, and which in no generation has been 
considered any ornament to the face of its pos- 
sessor, will not show good judgment by neglecting 
.to cultivate other graces of appearance because she 
cannot be a "perfect" beauty. Regular features 



iO WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

are the exception, and not the rule; therefore the 
number who can never hope to be very beautiful, 
as generally understood, are in the majority. 

That all women are not capable of extreme phys- 
ical beauty is true, but that any woman may culti- 
vate the best possible in her appearance and profit 
by it is no less true. 

Any woman can cultivate good complexion; any 
woman can have good hair; almost any woman can 
have good health, and that means bright eyes, skin 
that presents a glow, that proves the beauty of skin 
to be more than "skin deep," and a wholesome in- 
vigorating magnetism. Beauty, as applied to 
women, is as vague in meaning as applied to things 
in general. It is as varied in distinctive quality as 
there are women who possess it. It is a compound 
of essences of the mental, moral and physical. It is 
felt, rather than beheld, and consists of almost any- 
thing more than mechanical outline. It is refresh- 
ing, alluring, delightful, puzzling, attracting and 
captivating. If we advance no other argument for 
its wisdom of cultivation we will ask the read- 
ers to look among their women friends and men- 
tally compare the popularity of the well-preserved 
women with those that have not cared for their 
looks. Follow in the lead of a woman who gives 
painstaking care to her skin, her hair, her teeth, her 
breath, her gentle expression of countenance, her 
becoming dress — and you may be surprised to learn 
how much influence for the goo-d and happiness of 
others this woman is to be credited with. I do not 



INTRODUCTION. 11 

advise that this care of the personal appearance 
should rule our lives. It need not. The woman 
who presents the very sweetest personality that I 
know, works for her living, and is a power in her 
city in charitable work. It does not take much 
time to thus care for the appearance. The first 
step to take is to gain health, for the beauty that 
subsists on anything else is short-lived and full of 
trouble; and that foundation is not furnished by 
having prescriptions filled and taking them. Na- 
ture has provided all that we need to get well, to 
keep well. 

The demands of the needs of the body more fully 
understood, the limit of youih's reign would not 
end on the sunny side of forty, as it almost invaria- 
bly does to-day. 

The face first expresses failure cf mental or phy- 
sical power, and, therefore, it is well to guard this 
signboard of the way of life against the indications 
of the encroachments of time, and whatever may 
be clone in this direction should be by all and with 
many it is very important. 

Do not allow the thought of resignation to take 
possession of your mind because certain signs of de- 
cay of bodily charms are beginning to present them- 
selves. Rather meet them with opposition, and 
carry good soft hair, smooth skin and firm, round 
neck and bust into the advancing years with you. 
This is the age of usefulness of women, and it is a 
fact that attractiveness is a necessary quality, if one 
is not entirely ready to enter the retired list. 



WOMANLY BEAUTY 

ITS ELEMENTS AND REQUIREMENTS, 

By Dr. D. H. Jacques. 

The proportions of the perfect human figure are 
strictly mathematical. The whole figure is six 
times the length of the foot. Whether the form be 
slender or plump, this rule holds good. Any devia- 
tion from it is a departure from the highest beauty 
of proportion. The Greeks made all their statues 
according to this rule. The face, from the highest 
point of the forehead, where the hair begins, to the 
end of the chin, is one-tenth of the whole stature. 
The hand, from the wrist to the end of the middle 
finger, is the same. The chest is a fourth, and from 
the nipples to the top of the head is the same. From 
the top of the chest to the highest point of the fore- 
head is a seventh. If the length of the face, from 
the roots of the hair to the chin, be divided into 
three equal parts, the first division determines the 
point where the eyebrows meet, and the second the 
place of the nostrils. The navel is the central 
point of the human body; and if a man should lie on 
his back with his arms and legs extended, the pe- 
riphery of the circle which might be described 
around him, with the navel for its centre, would 
touch the extremities of his hands and feet. The 
height from the feet to the top of the head is the 

From "Physical Perfection. 



WOMANLY BEAUTY. 



same as the distance from the extremity of one 
hand to the extremity of the other when the arms 
are extended. These are general measures of the 
species. 

The beauty of the face depends much upon the 
profile, which, in its perfect form, approaches a 
straight line. Perfection in the nose requires that 
it should be so placed as to divide the face into two 
equal parts, and that it should be on nearly the same 
line with the forehead, with but a slight inflection 
at its junction. In woman, the nose itself should 
be perfectly straight. 

The law of perfect beauty requires that the 
mouth— that most expressive and eloquent feature 
of the human face divine— should be of medium 
size, but smaller in woman than in man. The curve 
of the upper lip is said to have furnished the ancient 
artists with a model for the bow of Cupid. It must 
extend beyond the lower lip, which must, however, 
be more fully developed and rounded, turning out- 
ward, so as to leave between it and the chin a grace- 
fully curved hollow. The teeth must be small, 
slightly rounded and perfecty even and white. 

The chin should be of moderate size, white, soft 
and gracefully rounded. 

Perfect beauty in the eye requires a long rather 
than a short opening between the eyelids, and 
immaculate clearness of both the white and the iris. 
Dark blue, black and brown eyes are most beautiful 
in woman. The eyes should be large rather than 
small. 



ITS ELEMENTS AND REQUIREMENTS 15 

The cheeks should be moderately plump, and 
delicately tinged with the hues of health. 

The most beautiful hair is fine and soft, especially 
in woman, and either wavy or curling. Brown, au- 
burn and golden are generally thought to be the 
most beautiful colors. The ancients were great ad- 
mirers of golden hair, which they believed to sym- 
bolize the highest mental beauty and excellence. 
Many of the historic characters of antiquity are de- 
scribed as having hair of this color. Of Milto, the 
beautiful Ionian, we are told: "Her hair was yel- 
low, the locks a little curled." Helen of Troy, Pop- 
paea Sabina and Lucretia Borgia are described as 
having beautiful golden hair. The most beautiful 
neck in woman is white, smooth, straight and flex- 
ible; less above, and increasing gently toward the 
shoulders. The shoulders should be white, narrow 
and softly rounded, but firm and elastic. 

The whiteness, firmness and elasticity of the neck 
and shoulders should extend to the bosom, which, 
in woman, must be well developed, but not so large 
as to be at all out of proportion with the rest of the 
figure. The breasts must be gracefully rounded, 
smooth, equal in size and distinctly separated. 

The arms and hands are susceptible of a degree 
of beauty of which we see few examples. In wom- 
an, the arm is plumper and more rounded, and has 
softer forms and purer and more flowing outlines, 
than in man. The hand in woman is softer, whiter 
and fuller. The fingers, in their perfect form, are 
long, round, tapering and delicate. 



18 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

Beautiful ankles are not rare, but the feet of the 
moderns, and especially the women, are almost uni- 
versally deformed by tight boots and shoes. The 
second toe, which naturally projects most, as we see 
in the antique, is arrested in its development, and 
the foot, which in the outline of its extremity, ought 
to approach the elegant form of the ellipsis, is. 
rounded without beauty, and disfigured by our 
ridiculous compressions. The ancients attached 
much importance to the form of the feet, and the 
historians, as well as the poets, make mention of 
their beauty in speaking of Polysene, Aspasia and 
others. 

Conjoined with perfection of form in figure and 
face, we shall not fail to find that index of perfect 
functional integrity, a soft, smooth, transparent and 
delicately tinted skin. This is "the barometer of 
health and soundness of the individual, and the most 
indubitable sign of beauty." The cheeks must 
have the true blending of the rose and the lily. Too 
much redness is as far removed from the highest 
beauty as a deficiency of color. 

Beauty is the grand external sign of goodness 
of organization and integrity of function, and the 
highest possible beauty can indicate nothing else 
than perfection in these particulars. A lack of 
beauty in any member or system of the body indi- 
cates a lack of goodness or health in that member or 
system. Beauty, the sign of health, has no fellow- 
ship with disease. 



Beauty of Ofomankina— ttlby It Ca$t$ or fades. 

By Dr. C. H. Stratz, of Holland. 

Ever since man began to think, poets, painters 
and sculptors have glorified the beauty of woman 
in their words and works, and even scholars have 
not ignored the subject, trying to form theories as 
to the ideal of feminine beauty. The multitude 
have wondered at their productions and followed 
their lead. But they forget that all powerful 
nature in creative might produces every day fem- 
inine creatures far more beautiful than all that art 
and science have brought forth, but these they gen- 
erally overlook as unworthy of note, and not one 
sage cries out, "Look here at living beauty in flesh 
and blood!" 

I have sought a new method of judging human 
beauty, and instead of going to pictures or corpses, 
as the artists or anatomists do, I have studied liv- 
ing subjects. After fifteen years of investigation 
I have reached the conclusion that the way to 
beauty lies through a decreasing of the causes of 
ugliness — bad clothing, poor parents, faulty feed- 
ing, improper modes of life. Put these away and 
the human body will reach ideal beauty, for per- 

&C*w York Herald. 



18 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

feet beauty and perfect health are one and the 
same. 

The practical result of my work is that in preserv- 
ing the health of the growing- girl we are perfecting 
her beauty. 

It is only during the last few years that a canon 
of the proportions which go to make up the perfect- 
ly formed woman has been arrived at. Two wom- 
en of very different height may be perfectly propor- 
tioned and beautiful. 

UNIT OF MEASUREMENT. 

In the accompanying diagram the modulus, or 
unit of measurement, is the line a b, from the nose 
to a line across the hips. This is then divided 
into four equal parts — a e, ef, fN, and N b. The 
height of the head from the nose is equal to one 
of these parts, a c, and in the same way every part 
of the body can be measured and shown to be in 
proportion or not. 

If the modulus is twenty inches, the fourth of it 
will be five inches, and then all the measurements 
can be made. It will be noted also that in the 
model outline the perfect legs should touch in four 
places; the height should be equal to nine times the 
length of the hand and seven and one-half the 
length of the head. 

As figured out from this canon, the perfectly 
proportioned woman should be seven and a half 
times the height of her head, ten times the length 
of her face, nine times the length of her hand, and 
from six to seven times the length of her foot. 



WHY IT LASTS OR FADES 19 

The distance between the temples should be 
equal to the length of the face. The arms should 
be three times the length of the head, the legs four 
times the length of the head, the shoulders two 
heads wide, and the upper and lower parts of the 




arm and of the leg should be of equal length. Trie 
proof that these measurements are correct is pre- 
sented by applying the canon to the best types of 
feminine beauty. 



«> WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

STUDY OF SPECIAL FEATURES. 

In studying the special features I have found that 
here, too, there were special detects and beauties. 
The perfect mouth has neither too full nor too thin 
lips, and the upper lip is neither too short nor too 
long. The very short lips of the English are the 
result chiefly of heredity, the dressing of the mother 
and peculiar nourishment. It is caused by the 
shape of the lower jaw and the length of the bone 
from the mouth to the nose. 

We speak of a large or a small eye, but the fact 
is that all eyes are nearly of the same size, and the 
difference lies only in the opening of the lids to a 
greater or less extent. The disposition of the per- 
son and intelligence have much to do with the 
control of the eyelids and the brilliancy of that most 
attractive feature of the human face. 

The regularly formed, well moulded ear is no 
small addition to, the symmetry of the head, and 
generally the defects lie in the too great develop- 
ment of the ear muscle. Exactly how this can be 
influenced is not yet ascertained, as it might be. 

The important question of the color of eyes and 
hair is a matter of temperament, and, therefore, of 
heredity, for they go back to the pigment which is 
found in the lymph of the body, and this is affected 
by the character of the person and her ancestors. 

NECK AND SHOULDERS. 

Every woman would like to be possessed of a 
beautiful neck and shoulders, and nothing depends 
more entirely upon herself and those who train 



WHY IT LASTS OR FADES 21 

her as a girl. The carriage of the body and the 
shape of the well moulded neck and bust, which are 
to retain their beauty almost so long as the woman 
lives, are a result of the development of the mus- 
cles of the back, breast and shoulders. 

The current idea that a small hand is the only 
beautiful hand is not borne out by the best canon 
of proportions. The real beauty of the hand lies 
in its shape. It ought to be one-ninth the height of 
the body. The best shaped hand has fingers that 
taper gradually, with well curved nails, longer than 
they are broad. 

Perhaps the rarest perfect feature among civilized 
women is the perfect foot. The cause of so many 
ugly feet is directly* traceable to faulty shoes. The 
Javanese woman has a perfect foot because she 
never wore a shoe, and even though her foot may 
not be quite so small as some of those who cramp 
their toes into a number two, it conforms far better 
to the idea of art, as well as of nature. The second 
toe ought to extend beyond the great toe, but 
tight shoes cramp it and make it shorter. The per- 
fect foot ought to have so high an instep that when 
set on the ground a little bird could sit under the 
inner side. That painful and deforming affliction, 
flat footedness, is the result of nothing except 
cramping shoes. 

PRE-NATAL. INFLUENCES. 

Even before birth many influences may be 
brought to bear to the proper development of the 
child. If the mother is careful as to her mode of 



WOMANLY BEAUTY. 



life and food, much is being done for her offspring. 
She should eat properly. It is to be regretted that 
among the lower classes both the quantity and qual- 
ity of the food are not sufficiently cared for at this 
critical period. The baby that is extremely thin or 
extremely fat has not been properly cared for and 
fed before its birth. 

In general, women of the better class may have 
good food, but on the other hand, they lack the 
physical exercise which is forced upon their hum- 
bler sisters, so that there is a compensation for each. 
It is unfortunate that it is considered normal for one 
side or one portion of the body to be more highly 
developed than the other. The unsymmetrical body 
can never be beautiful. 

Early marriages have a bad effect both upon 
mother and child. The mother is forced to an earlv 
decline of all the vital powers. Every woman 

YEAR 




THE BEAUTY CURVE.— The black line shows the de- 
velopment and decline of normal beauty by years; the dotted 
line, the beauty that develops and fades early. 

ought to be at the height of her beauty between the 



WHY IT LASTS OR FADES. 23 

ages of twenty-three and thirty-three. If such is 
not the case the cause must be sought either in lack 
of proper care or food, or, as is very frequently the 
case, too early marriage. 

The proper age for marriage is between twenty 
and twenty-two, preferably the latter, In some 
cases a very early development of beauty presages 
a rapid decline. Women of the so-called better 
classes generally mature later and preserve their 
beauty longer than those of the working classes, 
and this is due chiefly to the better food and lack of 
straining labor. 

The influence of heredity is a very important one 
in the development of beauty. It is admitted that 
features are inherited, and it is certain that where 
two persons with the same ancestors, as is the case 
with cousins, marry, the child is apt to reproduce 
the bad features of those ancestors in an extreme 
form. No human beings are perfect, and where 
utter strangers marry there is much more chance of 
developing a harmonious and beautiful being than 
where the common characteristics are exaggerated, 
as must be the case in the marriage of blood rela- 
tions. 

Only a physician can appreciate the very great 
importance which nourishment and exercise play in 
the development of perfect beauty. The com- 
monest of diseases from lack of proper nourishment 
is rickets, and there is nothing which has a more 
deleterious effect upon the human form than this 
malady. 



24 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

IMPORTANCE OF EXERCISE. 

Extremes of leanness or fatness are also due to ill 
regulated or poorly nourished beings. The impor- 
tance of regular and scientific exercises upon the 
development of the female form were never better 
illustrated than in the picture of a woman twenty- 
six years old who will retain both form and feature 
many years longer than her sister who has been 
either misguided or too indolent to take the proper 
exercise. 

Tendencies, too, to tuberculosis may easily be 
overcome under proper conditions, and the sunken 
chest and narrow shoulders of the prospective con- 
sumptive be developed into more rounded and aes- 
thetic form as well as healthy color. 

After measuring twenty-five of the best propor- 
tioned women whom I have found I ascertained 
that they varied in height between 5 feet 1 inch 
and 5 feet 7 inches; in breadth of shoulders, from 
13.65 to 15.6 inches; diameter of waist, 7 to 9.36 
inches; distance across the hips, from 12 to 14 
inches. 

GOOD AND BAD FEATURES. 

I have found it necessary to tabulate the good 
and bad features in two divisions. The first has to 
do with those which are the result of more distant 
causes, such as heredity, pre-natal influences, &c. 
The second covers defects that rest more directly 
upon the will and common sense of the girl and 
those who have to do with her rearing. 



WHY IT LASTS OR FADES. 



FIRST DIVISION. 



GOOD FEATURES. 

Slender, fine bones. 

Round limbs. 

Full breasts. 

Broad pelvis. 

Luxuriant, long hair. 

Smooth lips. 

Thin, soft skin. 

Round skull. 

Small face. 

Large, deep eye sockets. 

High, small eyebrows. 

Delicate lower jawbone. 

Even surface between cheek 
and neck. 

Rounded neck. 

Slender wrist. 

Narrow hand, with long index 
finger. 

Well rounded shoulders. 

Straight, small collarbone. 

Hollows over the loins. 

Round, thick upper thigh. 

Rounded calf. 

Slender ankle. 

Th'n foot, with thin toes. 

Second toe long, little toe 
short. 



DEFECTS. 

Heavy, thick bones. 

Angular limbs. 

Flat breasts. 

Small pelvis. 

Thin, short hair. 

A mustache. 

Thick, hard skin. 

Angular skull. 

Large face. 

Small eye sockets. 

Lowering, bushy eyebrows. 

Broad lower jawbone. 

Sharply separated neck and 
prominent jaw. 
Bony neck and Adam's apple. 

Plump wrist. 

Broad hand, with long ring 
finger. 

Bony shou'.ders. 

Curved, thick collarbone. 

Flat over the loins. 

Thin, flat thigh. 

Thin and angular calf. 

Heavy ankle. 

Plump foot, with broad toes. 

Great toe longest and little 
toe prolonged. 



SECOND DIVISION. 



Symmetry of the upper and 
lower parts of the body. 

Normal weight. 

Shining, elastic skin. 

General muscular develop- 
ment. 

Slender joints. 

Well formed upper lip. 

Even, regular teeth. 

Slender, straight nose. 

Round chin, with dimples. 

Rounded shoulders. 

Flat, round stomach. 

Arched back. 

Rounded elbows. 

Slender, long hands. 

Long second finger. 

Arched, long nails. 

Slender, long foot. 

Straight legs. 

Straight great toe. 

Longer second toe. 



Asymmetry between the two 
parts of the body. 

Too heavy or too light. 

Dull, hard skin. 

Poor muscles. 

Thick, swollen joints. 

Prominent upper lip, thick or 
too short. 

Projecting, irregular teeth. 

Broad, pug or flat nose. 

Sharp or double chin. 

Angular shoulders. 

Protruding stomach. 

Flat back. 

Pointed elbows. 

Short, broad hands. 

Long forefinger. 

Flat, short nails. 

Plump, broad foot. 

Bow legs or knock knees. 

Great toe turned inward. 

Longer great toe. 




Rockwood Photo. 



Miss Louise Rockwell. 

B Ulcll Balanced temperament. 



temperamental types* 

By Sarah C. Turner. 

In Studying types of physical beauty we find there 
is a temperamental difference which must be taken 
into account, Bodily configuration is influenced and 
determined by physical conditions which are known 
as temperamental and are derived from the differ- 
ent systems of organs or factors that are found 
in each individual. We have the bones and muscu- 
lar system, which give size and strength; the vital 
organs; stomach, heart and lungs, giving bodily 
power, and the brain and nervous system, giving 
mental strength; in proportion as these exist, we 
have the temperamental types. 

The Motive Temperament is not usually found 
in women, and is nearly always modified by the Vi- 
tal and Mental. In this type the bony framework 
and muscular system predominate, whether the per- 
son be large or small; the bones are proportionate- 
ly long, with strong muscles and prominent joints, 
giving somewhat of angularity to the form and the 
features, the chest moderate in size, the shoulders 
broad, the limbs long and only moderately tapering; 
the cheek bones, the nose and all the features of the 
face will be relatively large, as well as the hands and 



28 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

the feet; the figure is usually tall and somewhat 
striking, if not elegant, embodying a type of phys- 
ical beauty that sometimes proves very attractive, 
especially when modified by the Vital and Mental. 

Persons with this temperament will be known 
for strong, positive traits of character, persistent, 
self-reliant, ambitious, forcible, with a good brain; 
are likely to be leaders in thought and action, usu- 
ally in some special direction, and have good execu- 
tive ability. 

When this temperament is in excess much can be 
done to modify its manifestation by cultivating 
more of the Vital by restraining one's physical ac- 
tivity, improving digestion, deep breathing and cul- 
tivating and encouraging a tendency to become 
more fleshy, so rounding out the form, making the 
bony structure less prominent. 

When it is lacking, cultivate muscular activity, 
by gymnastic and other exercises, seek outdoor life, 
use food containing bone forming material, culti- 
vate a spirit of independence and take responsibili- 
ties that will call for action. 

The Vital Temperament, more often found in 
women than in men. depends upon the digestive 
system, good breathing power, good circulation 
and assimilation, and is indicated by breadth and 
thickness of the body, with the length of limbs and 
size of bones proportionately less than in the Mo- 
tive Temperament; the chest and bust are full, the 
abdomen well developed, the limbs plump and ta- 
pering, with hands and feet relatively small; the 




Rice Photo. 

Anita Newcomb McGee, Acting Surgeon, U. S. A. 



the motive temperament. 



85 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

neck is short, the shoulders well filled out, the face 
plump and inclined to a rosy or ruddy complexion. 
Persons of this temperament are not apt to worry, 
are ardent, genial and contented, working with 
much less friction than is usually found in the Mo- 
tive and Mental types. 

In this temperament there is sometimes a ten- 
dency, especially in advancing years, to an excess 
of flesh so as to affect unfavorably the personal ap- 
pearance, too great fulness in the hips, abdomen, 
bust and face, which can and should be controlled 
by the cultivation of a more active life and a proper 
restraining of the appetite, especially in the use of 
liquids and an excess of sweets and fat producing 
foods, and by the use of massage. 

To cultivate the Vital when it is lacking, increase 
the lung power by deep breathing and the circula- 
tion by proper exercise, use the most easily di- 
gested foods, avoid stimulants, spices, condiments, 
strong acids or watery vegetables, secure plenty of 
sleep and rest, and seek an easy, comfortable life, 
free from care, until vitality is built up. 

The Mental Temperament is characterized by a 
frame relatively slight and a highly nervous organi- 
zation. Here we find smallness of bones and small- 
ness of body, with a face that is oval in shape, the 
upper part of the forehead always high and broad, 
the limbs, hands and feet small and thin, delicately 
chiseled features, a transparent skin and fine hair; 
the chest and bust only moderate in size, the figure 
slight, is often elegant and graceful, but not strik- 




Rockwood Photo. 



Mrs. Ruth Fuller Field. 

the Uital temperament. 



31 



32 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

ing or commanding. In persons with this temper- 
ament the feelings are refined, they are sensitive to 
all surroundings, imaginative, sympathetic, poetic, 
and inclined to artistic and literary pursuits. 

There should always be a watchfulness not to al- 
low this temperamental condition to become too 
strong or the nervous organization will break down ; 
cultivate the Vital Temperament, which will be- 
come a modifying influence; this will best be done 
by restraining mental activity, using only nutritious 
and easily digested foods, securing an abundance 
of sleep, regular exercise and outdoor life. 

To cultivate this temperament, take up carefully 
thoughtful reading and study, seek cultivated so- 
ciety and refining influences; avoid all that tends to 
coarseness of thought or life, make the most of your 
mind. 

The person possessing either of these tempera- 
mental conditions in an extreme degree should en- 
deavor to modify them by acquiring more of that 
which is lacking, but not expecting to. wholly 
change the temperamental tendencies. In the cul- 
tivation of womanly beauty : t must not be expect- 
ed that all can arrive at the same standard, but each 
should strive for the modification of striking tem- 
peramental peculiarities in the ways indicated, and 
the results will amply repay for the efforts made 
in a more even, symmetrical organization and char- 
acter. 




Kockwood Photo. 



Miss Ysobel Haskins. 

the mental temperament. 

33 



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Breathing ana Beauty. 

By Dr. W. R. C. Latson. 

Breathing- is closely related to beauty both of 
form and feature. Full breathing is always asso- 
ciated with broad, deep chest and erect carriage, 
and is essential to those other activities which pro- 
duce clear skin, bright eyes and well nourished 
tissues. 

Few people realize that, important as is the mat- 
ter of proper ventilation and pure air, the proper 
use of the lungs is a matter of still greater impor- 
tance. The blood comes to the lungs laden with the 
products G'f tissue waste, giving up in the lungs its 
accumulation of poisonous matter and returning to 
the tissues with oxygen for their maintenance. This 
circuit is made three times in every minute, and 
at this rate the lungs eliminate about a half pound 
of carbon dioxid in a day. When it is considered 
that about one-third of the entire excreta is elim- 
inated by the lungs, and that every breath con- 
taminates 5,000 cubic inches or nearly half a barrel 
of pure air, the immense importance of an ade- 
quate supply of pure air and of properly utilizing 
that air by full breathing will be better appreciated. 

Not only is the practice 01 full, deep breathing 
productive of health and_beauty_and preventive of 



36 WOMANLY BEAUTF. 

disease, but it is curative of many diseases. The 
most important of all gymnastics are breathing ex- 
ercises. The most valuable feature of any exercise 
is that it should necessitate deep breathing. The 
most beneficial habit possible to form is the habit 
of slow, full breathing. 'Throughout all nature, 
from the guinea pig, which breathes 140 times a 
minute, to the elephant, which breathes six times a 
minute, one rule holds good — the stronger the ani- 
mal the more slowly it breathes. 

The most important result of full breathing, as 
we have already seen, is increased oxygenation of 
the blood and the augmented elimination of the 
waste matters carried by the blood to the lungs. 
In addition to these the mechanical action of full 
breathing accelerates the peristaltic movements of 
the stomach and intestines and thereby helps di- 
gestion, assimilation and all the other vital func- 
tions. 

The conditions of proper breathing are few and 
simple. The first is proper carriage of the body 
and the second is freedom from tight encircling 
bands, such as corsets, belts, tight collars or waist- 
coats. The usual teaching is that there are three 
methods of taking in the breath, the clavicular, the 
lateral and the abdominal. In the clavicular breath 
the abdomen is held immovable and the inhaled 
air is allowed to raise and expand the ribs at the 
upper part of the chest. In lateral breathing the 
ribs at the sides of the chest are expanded by the 
inhaled air, while the abdominal breath is taken by 




Fig. 1. 



33 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

holding chest immorable and allowing diaphragm 
to move downward and abdominal walls outward. 

It is usually stated that one of these breathing 
efforts is the correct one and that the others are 
incorrect; also, that the normal respiration for 
women is the clavicular and for men the abdominal. 
Such teaching could result only from a superficial 
study of abnormal models. In the normal breath 
the entire thorax, chest, abdomen, sides and back 
expands with every inspiration. Such expansion, 
however, is possible only where the body is proper- 
ly carried and is unconstricted. With most women 
whose waists are lightly bound by a corset and sev- 
eral skirt bands abdominal action is impossible, and 
the only action by which they can take in air is by 
using the chest muscles. With men. the tight linen 
collar, the suspenders and the tightly buttoned 
waistcoat render the upper part of the trunk im- 
movable, and only the lower or abdominal breath 
can be used. In these days of freedom and enlight- 
enment most of us are the complacent appendages 
of our clothes, and we breathe as our clothes per- 
mit. 

The first requisite, then, for proper breathing is 
correct carriage of the body. This is rare — so rare 
that, in an examination of several thousand cases,. 
I have found less than one per cent of normal 
figures. Ninety-nine out of every hundred people 
have curvature of the spine. 

The exercises given herewith for carriage and 
breathing are, if perseveringly practiced, sufficient 




Fig. 2.-Proflle 



W-R-Cb. 
Fig. 3— front View. 



40 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

for the acquirement of both, and have so proven in 
a large number of cases in my private practice. It 
is not by practicing a large variety of exercises but 
by assiduous work with a few properly selected 
movements that the desired results are to be at- 
tained. 

The exercises for position consist of movements 
which shall stretch certain ligaments and permit 
the osseous structure to be adjusted so as to allow 
freedom of movement in breathing or walking. 

EXERCISE NO. 1. 

Stand erect, heels together, toes out. Bend for- 
ward and, without raising heels or allowing knees 
to bend, try to touch the toes with the finger tips. 

(See figure I.) 

Note.' — Yon will not, at first, be able to reach the toes 
with the finger tips, hut it is not necessary thai you should. 
The effort tn do so will stretch the shortened ligaments and 
conduce to the correct position. 

EXERCISE NO. 2. 

Stand erect, knees, hips and chin back, chest 
raised. Without lifting heels, sway the body for- 
ward until the weight is on the balls of the feet. 
Then take full breath, and. with head thrown back, 
raise the arms, palm forward, and stretch the whole 
body upward and forward, as if you were trying to 
reach the ceiling. (See figures 2 and 3). 

EXERCISE NO. Z. 

Stand erect, feet about twelve inches apart. Take 
weight upon right foot, extend right hand upward, 
palm outward. Xow take full breath, raise left 
foot from floor and stretch, trying to increase the 




W-ROU 



42 "WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

distance between the right hand and the left foot. 
(See figure 4). 

EXERCISE NO. A. 

This is the reverse of No. 3. Take weight on left 
foot, raise left hand and stretch as in previous ex- 
ercise. (See figure 4). 

EXERCISE NO. 5. 

Stand with right foot in advance, as if taking 
a step. Take full breath. Then, raising right 
hand toward ceiling, palm forward, lift the left foot 
from the floor and stretch upward and forward. 
(See figure 5). 

EXERCISE NO. 6. 

Reverse of No. 5. 

EXERCISE NO. 7. 

Stand as in exercise No. 5, right foot in advance. 
Then with weight on left foot, raise left arm up and 
backward, palm forward, lift right foot and stretch. 
(See figure 6.) 

EXERCISE NO. 8. 

Reverse of No. 7. 

The stretching exercises should always be fol- 
lowed by an exercise for relaxation. The best I 
know for general purposes is the following: — 

EXERCISE NO. 9. 

Stand with feet well apart, whole body relaxed, 
arms hanging loosely. Now shake the body, only 
gently, using the least possible muscular exertion, 
until conscious of a feeling of general muscular re- 
laxation and restfulness. This exercise may be 
varied by walking about, allowing the whole body 



** WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

to sway and sag, as if deeply intoxicated. This ex- 
ercise besides being a corrective of the tension 
liable to result from the stretching and reaching 
exercises, is always restful, and oftentimes will re- 
lieve insomnia. 

In may be remarked, in connection with these 
exercises, that many of those distressing disorders 
peculiar to womankind (civilized womankind) may 
be entirely cured by a properly adapted course of 
stretching, posing and breathing gymnastics. 

BREATHING EXERCISES. 

Owing to constriction of the waist, few women 
make proper use of the abdominal muscles in 
breathing. To remedy this, the following exercise 
is recommended: — 

EXERCISE NO. 10. 

Lie flat on the back upon a level surface. Relax 
all the muscles. Now, with hands upon the abdo- 
men, take a long, deep, gentle inspiration. If re- 
laxation has been maintained, the first movement 
observed will be a thrusting outward of the abdo- 
men. As the inhalation proceeds, the movement 
passes upward until the last air inhaled expands 
the upper part of the trunk. No not try to force 
the muscles into correct action. Simply try to 
take a long, gentle respiration. The thorax unre- 
stricted by clothing will always expand as described. 
This exercise, by the way, is one of the classic de- 
vices of the old masters of Italian singing, and is 
one of the "secrets" of the so-called "Italian meth- 
od." A similar device is also used by the Yogis of 



BREATHING AND BEAUTY Ah 

India as a religious exercise for mental concentra- 
tion and self control. 

EXERCISE NO. 11. 

Sit erect in an ordinary straight-backed chair, 
head-back, chest raised, spine straight. Now, with 
hands on abdomen, inhale gently as in the preceding- 
exercise; and note that first the waist and then the 
chest enlarges. As soon as the full capacity of the 
lungs has been reached, exhale with the same gen- 
tleness and notice that first the chest, then the sides 
and back and lastly the abdomen sinks. 

EXERCISE NO. 12. 

Stand erect, weight forward, head back, chest up, 
arms hanging easily, and take full, gentle inspira- 
tion, allowing first the abdomen and then the sides 
and chest to be filled by the inhaled air. Exhale in 
the same manner, occasionally testing the correct- 
ness of the action by placing one hand upon the 
chest and the other upon the abdomen, remember- 
ing that the first air inhaled should expand the 
waist. 

EXERCISE NO. 13. 

For this exercise a breathing tube is necessary. 
The breathing tube is a small cylinder of hard rub- 
ber, through which air taken into the lungs may be 
expelled with more or less force. The best instru- 
ment I know of the kind is the Wilhide Exhaler, 
If the Wilhide is used, remove both caps. Then 
take position, place the tube between the lips and 
take, through the nose, a full, gentle inha- 
lation, expanding first the waist and then the chest. 



46 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

The moment lungs are filled exhale gently through 
the tube, using very little force, a steady "stream of 
air, until lungs are empty. 

Remember that in these breathing exercises any 
haste or force will defeat the end in view, besides, 
perhaps, injuring the delicate pulmonary tissues. 
Taken as herein directed, these exercises cannot in- 
jure the most delicate and will be found adequate 
for the most robust. They may be practiced at any 
time except within an hour after meals. Fatigue 
or dizziness should be the sign to discontinue. 

From an extensive experience in prescribing 
these exercises, and from the reports of others who 
have used them, I am convinced that, the best gym- 
nasium is the body that each of us owns, and that 
the best gymnastics are the breathing gymnastics. 

As one among many instances personally known 
to the writer of the curative effects of breathing 
gymnastics, the case of Mme. Donna Madixxa, for 
years a successful teacher of physical culture and 
dramatic expression, is most interesting and en- 
couraging — Mme. Madixxa's experiences are told 
in the article following this paper, in her own words. 



Illy Experience lUitb Curative Breathing. 

By Mme. Donna Madixxa. 

I have been invited to give some of my personal 
experiences in Curative Breathing. It has been 
my great privilege and happiness to assist in the 
restoration to> vigorous and healthful activity of a 
large number of over-worked, overfed and over- 
doctored people during the nearly twenty years 
■of my life devoted to the teaching of physical cul- 
ture. Many a confirmed dyspeptic owes his cure 
to correct breathing; many a weak-lunged, narrow- 
chested individual has escaped consumption by the 
development of the chest muscles and extension of 
the breathing capacity. Many aching backs and 
incipient cases of kidney and uterine diseases have 
been checked, and even cured in full development, 
by the straightening of a crooked spine, and by re- 
moving the abnormal pressure upon the diseased 
organs in a correct attitude. Many a weakling, un- 
graceful school girl has bloomed into healthful, at- 
tractive womanhood through the practice of 
breathing exercises. But perhaps the most marked 
case I have ever known is my own. Being most 
"thoroughly informed" in this instance, you will 



48 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

I trust, pardon the inevitable egoism of the narra- 
tive. 

Leaving college a scrawny, delicate girl, after ac- 
quiring the usual hodge-podge of facts the gradu- 
ated young woman is expected to know, and with 
my vitality sapped, as is often the case, in the ac- 
quirement of the prescribed course, I became a wife 
and mother while still a child in years. The duties 
of untrained wifehood, motherhood and nursehood 
left me a physical wreck at twenty-three. I con- 
sulted noted physicians, and they advised tonics of 
various kinds, but I did not "tone." I was recom- 
mended a "bracing climate," but it did not "brace." 
I could not eat food of any kind without great dis- 
tress, so I almost gave up eating. I fainted upon 
walking up stairs without assistance I weighed a 
hundred and twenty-five pounds and was losing a 
pound a week. The doctors then gave me up to 
die, of what they termed "consumption of the 
blood." At this time it was my very good fortune 
to meet the then dean of the Boston University 
School of Oratory, Lewis B. Monroe, teacher of 
the Delsarte method of physical culture. After an 
hour's conversation with him he said, "My child, 
there is nothing the matter with you except that 
you don't know how to sit. stand, walk or breathe. 
You are a delicately regulated machine, and you 
simply don't know how to run yourself. You can- 
not eat, you say, without distress; now your food is 
the fuel put into the firebox of the engine to pro- 
duce steam, but you must turn on the draughts or 



BREATHING AND BEAUTY 49 

it will not burn. Your breath is the draught; turn 
it on in full force, burn your fuel, raise your steam 
and the wheels will begin to turn." 

From that day I began to live. I discarded all 
other doctors and consulted only the principles of 
Delsarte, as the physician. I learned to breathe 
deep, full breaths from the diaphragm, instead of 
the little catchy breaths I had been taking, by lift- 
ing the chest and shoulders, in that way only filling 
the apex of the lungs without expanding the more 
vital portion at the base. I ate what 1 liked, and 
abundantly, and then "turned on the draughts." 
thus furnishing with each inhalation the purifying 
oxygen to the blood, while the vigorous diaphragm- 
atic expansion and contraction acted like an old 
fashioned dash churn upon the inactive stomach 
and liver, compelling them to perform their offices. 
My debilitated condition had induced a sinking in 
of the chest and dropping forward of the shoulders 
until I was very little removed from a hunchback. 
I walked as a weak person will, upon the heels; this 
threw the abdomen forward and curved the spine 
so that at twenty-three I had the carriage of a de- 
crepit old woman. After six weeks' vigorous prac- 
tice of the breathing and physical gymnastics 
taught in the School of Oratory and the acquiring 
of a correct posture and carriage, I began to look 
less like a jointed doll, and actually gained a pound 
a week, this in solid muscle, not in flesh. 

One morning, walking across the Common to 
our lecture room on Somerset street, I met one of 



61 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

my "tonic" physicians, who had professionally con- 
signed me to the land of shades several weeks be- 
fore. "Oh," he said, "is this really you? And look- 
ing so well! That prescription of mine worked 
wonders." When I finally convinced him that he 
had had nothing whatever to do with my recovery, 
he looked as though he considered it a great imper- 
tinence on my part not to have taken my departure 
as he had predicted. My case, however, was so 
marked that it aroused his professional instincts, 
and he finally became such a convert to the bene- 
fits of physical culture as to send me. as pupils, 
many who came to him a^ patients. The gentle- 
man who prescribed a bracing climate pooh-poohed 
at my tale of physical culture, but I was alive 
when he had said professionally that I ought to 
be dead, and there was no getting over that fact. 
He finally sent me his daughter, a beautiful, highly 
cultivated, but fragile girl, to learn the things that 
Delsarte, the physician, could teach. On her re- 
turn home she put her father through a course of 
the breathing and gymnastic exercises that he in- 
sisted was all "torn foolery." but which reduced his 
excessive embonpoint and made him lcok and feel 
younger by fifteen years. 

For twenty years I have not known what it was" 
to be seriously ill. Sometimes I am induced, 
through good fellowship, to overdo in my eating. 
My friends "take things" and groan. I open the 
window, straighten my spine, expand my chest, 
and breathe-breathe-breatlT 1 and thank God I 
know how! 





A great element of beauty is a good poise and 
carriage of the body. Too many women have a 
prominent abdomen and flat and sunken chest from 
bad position in standing. These illustrations from 
Mrs. lye Favre's work on Physical Culture show 
what is meant, and the results of wrong attitude. 
The chest should be raised and the abdomen drawn 
back. With a little practice of the exercises given, 
this will become easy, and produce a most desirable 
change. 



Sleep — Its effects on Beauty. 

By Ella Van Poole. 

Sleep, the rest which holds the eyelids down, is 
of the utmost importance in good looks. There 
is no means, aid or condition so productive or pre- 
serving of a pleasing appearance as proper and suf- 
ficient sleep. Nothing will promote brightness and 
vivacity like this death-like rest which nature de- 
mands once every twenty-four hours. This fact 
is ignored by many of the most intelligent men and 
women. They know it, but they don't seem to 
know it well enough. Every walk in life seems too 
full — there is so much to do — "the world is too 
much with us," there does not seem time enough 
to sleep. When a halt is called, and we are forced 
to learn that we can accomplish much more by rea- 
son of stronger nerves, granted by the proper 
amount of sleep, we are on the way to successful 
accomplishment of our hearts' desires. Our cities 
are filled with tired eyes and faded complexions 
from lack of sleep. Our country places offer tired 
countenances from overwork. Society women 
consume their nights in revels of pleasure and their 
days in the duties incumbent upon their position 
and wonder why they fade. The farmer's wife works 
all day and half the night arising in the morning nn- 



54 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

rested and urrefreshed, and wonders why she 
ages faster than her husband, whose work is 
done at dark. Youthful strength and comely ap- 
pearance is absolutely dependent upon sufficient 
sleep. The woman who will consider this fact as 
positive will give the subject of sleep as much at- 
tention as she will that of diet or dress, or any other 
requirement of existence. To those who have 
been neglectful of this important function, I would 
advise, first, a determination to grant sufficient 
time from pleasure or duty for its full need. Then 
go to bed with the intention of sleeping — make 
your preparations by removing every garment 
worn through the day, putting on a loose single 
garment which has comfort for its recommendation. 
Do not sleep on feathers, this style of bed is a rem- 
nant of ignorance — a cotton or wool mattress is 
a good bed. Have your pillow just high 
enough to raise the head a little above the level of 
the body, and place the pillow under the head — not 
under the shoulders. Sleep between sheets and 
under light but warm covering. Do not place 
your bed directly in a draft, but be sure to have an 
open window in your room; night air is only fresh 
air, and it is as necessary during sleep as at any oth- 
er time. Sleep alone, and without a light. As- 
sume a comfortable position, and lie hard upon the 
bed. This means relaxation of body. A child 
will make a greater impression where it lies in a 
bed than an adult, by reason of its more complete 
relaxation. Do not sleep with your face close to 



SLEEP— ITS EFFECTS ON BEAUTY. 55 

or near the wall. If the head is hot and the brain 
is overcharged with blood, treat the neck with a 
downward movement with the massage roller and 
it will tend to relieve the blood pressure in the head; 
this will also relieve neuralgia, from which many are 
liable to suffer at night. If sleepless, or if sleep 
comes slowly, relax the body and mind. Begin by 
forcing the toes, then the feet, then the tense mus- 
cles of the limbs, &c, to give up — to assume life- 
lessness. Let the jaw fall if you feel a sort of rigid- 
ity about the mouth. You may find the hands and 
the eye most stubborn to yield. Relaxation of the 
body or mind is simply giving up. Relax the body 
first, as you will need the mind to do it. Then 
force the mind to think of nothing — and unless 
there is some derangement of the bodily functions 
this alone will put you to sleep. One of the most 
common methods to induce sleep needs correction; 
that is, making great efforts of various kinds. In- 
stead of striving, and worrying about it, relax, give 
up; and if sleep does not come at once, you will at 
least rest, but, generally, when the strain is taken 
away from the brain, the body will begin to rest, 
and sleep will follow. Sleep and effort are foes. 
The old darky who said to his master, who vainly 
courted sleep: — "The best cure I knows of is to stay 
up the night before," was not far wrong in his ad- 
vice. To those who are sufferers from insomnia, 
try to remove the cause which provokes the nerves 
to this state of rebellion, by correcting the habits, 
by changing the diet, and by proper massage of the 



56 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

body. If tobacco, coffee, or other stimulants are 
to blame, stop them, either at once, or gradually; 
eat light, plain food, at regular hours, taking a 
cup of hot milk at bedtime, if you have been active- 
ly engaged since the last meal, and further aid na- 
ture's restorer by flushing the colon before retiring, 
thus relieving the system of refuse matter which 
causes pressure upon the nerve centres, and im- 
pedes free circulation of the blood. My own expe- 
rience and that of many whom I know is that mas- 
sage of the body, calculated to balance the circula- 
tion, will induce sound, healthy sleep. Get ready 
for sleep, and having relaxed the body by a few 
minutes' resting in a comfortable position, have 
some attendant or member of the family turn down 
the bed clothes except a light blanket, over which, 
with a Dr. Forest Massage Roller, roll you, begin- 
ning at the toes upward over the limbs to the 
waist. Then beginning at the fingers roll the 
arms to the shoulder. Then the spine, or over 
either side of the spine, from the head downward. 
This should be done as lightly or as heavily as seems 
pleasant or agreeable. This treatment, lasting- 
twenty minutes or less, will leave you too sleepy to 
say good night, and the sleep will last for hours. 

A practice recommended to the sleepless is the 
taking of an air bath. This, before going to bed, 
or even getting up and taking it as an aid to sleep, 
will often prove beneficial. One should be di- 
vested of all clothing and walk about, rubbing or 
rolling the body while in contact with the air. 



tbe Rome J\ Gymnasium* 

By Mrs, O. V. Sessions. 

"All time and money spent in training the body pays a larger 
Interest than any other investment." 

No doubt you are prepared to hear a description 
of a method for fitting up a room at home to be 
used as a gymnasium. And some of you may be 
saying, "A gymnasium is a good thing for students 
or for people who have nothing to do, but I have 
all the exercise I need before I get through with my 
housework,'' Nevertheless, we hope you will all de- 
cide to have one, even when you learn that you need 
not only one room but your whole house, with 
porches and yard included for our ideal home gym- 
nasium. As to the necessary equipments, a broom 
or a hoe may develop muscle as well as Indian clubs, 
and a pail of water makes a good "lifting exerciser." 

Possibly we can make our ideas practical by draw- 
ing a comparison between the day's work of two 
average women in ordinary circumstances, neither 
of whom was ever rugged and strong. One, whom 
we shall call "Mrs. Wise," has studied physical cul- 
ture and now applies the principles to her daily 
duties. The other, whom we shall call "Mrs. Fool- 
ish," said that she had "too much exercise without 
taking lessons." 

Tuesday morning Mrs. Foolish is awakened from 
a tiresome dream by the alarm clock. She has slept 



68 WOMANLY BEAUTY, 

in a tense position and is not rested, but thinking 
of all she has to do, hastily arises, twists up her hair, 
washes her face and is dressed in a few moments. 
With shoes half fastened, she drags about preparing 
a breakfast of fried potatoes and meat, lard, biscuit 
and coffee. She has heard of new "health foods," 
but imagines they are tasteless, sloppy things, de- 
signed only for invalids, and continues serving meals 
in the old way without a thought as to their nutri- 
ent qualities or digestibility. At the table she sits 
in such a manner that her stomach is crowded below 
its normal position and could not perform its work 
naturally, but having no appetite she merely drinks 
some strong coffee, which braces her up as does a 
man's drink at the bar; then she can work with more 
energy. Soon, however, the effects of the stimulant 
pass off, leaving her more nervous and tired than 
before. When washing dishes she leans against the 
sink, throwing herself so badly out of poise that 
every movement she makes adds injury to vital 
organs, while the dish water splashes down the front 
of her dress, giving her a very untidy appearance 
By the time she has swept the sitting room, dining- 
room and kitchen she feels that her exercise is any- 
thing but pleasant or healthful. How she dreads 
going up stairs, for it always makes her back ache, 
but the chamberwork must be done, and so taking 
a pail of water, she drags herself and it up the stairs, 
reaching the top quite exhausted. She never stands 
with her weight on the proper muscles, and now 
when making beds she curves her poor spine, 




Fig. 1 — Improper Standing Fig. 2— Correct Standing Position 

Position. 



60 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

throws her shoulders forward, compresses her lungs 
and drops the diaphragm down upon the abdominal 
organs. Of course, with this position, all her move- 
ments become harmful rather than beneficial. She 
would like to rest before beginning to iron, but fears 
that she might not get through before dinner, so 
forces herself on until the ironing is completed. She 
is averse to changing old habits, and thinks it would 
seem lazy to sit to do any housework, so con- 
tinuing her wretched standing position she prepares 
vegetables for dinner, and before the meal is on the 
table she feels ready to drop. Being faint and hun- 
gry now, she eats too much, and as the blood and 
digestive fluids are poisoned by her exhaustion her 
food is not digested. Her husband is depressed by 
her tired face and cannot enjoy the meal which she 
has so carefully prepared. After dinner she bids the 
children keep out of her way because she is too 
nervous to endure their noise, and when she has put 
away the dishes she shuts herself alone in a close 
room and bending low over her work she sews hur- 
riedly until supper time. By this time her blood has 
become impoverished from lack of oxygen and has 
distributed so much poison that Mrs. Foolish has 
a severe headache and views the world through blue 
glasses. Her husband, having had numerous an- 
noyances in his business all day, does not feel very- 
patient, and his wife's sadness frets him until after 
supper he lets fall a thoughtless word which upsets 
her worn nerves, and she goes to her room and cries 
herself to sleep. Her whole day ha? been spent in 




Fig. 3— Improper, 



Fig. 4— Proper. 




Fig. 5— Climbing Stairs Improper. 




Fig. 6— Climbing Stairs Proper. 



64 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

unselfish labor for the sake of her dear ones, and it 
seems very trying to have it end in such a manner. 
But she has forgotten the words "to thine own self 
be true," &c., and in being unjust to herself she has 
proved unjust to every one else. She has not learned 
to distinguish between wise justice and real selfish- 
ness. If we hold a man responsible for his actions 
when drunk because he is responsible for getting 
drunk, then is not a woman responsible for her 
irritability when worn out if by a little forethought 
she might prevent herself getting worn out? Mrs. 
Wise thinks so, and now let us see how she has been 
spending this same Tuesday. 

Having learned to relax she has passed a restful 
night, awakens refreshed and gives a hearty stretch 
— such as all healthy animals enjoy upon arousing 
into consciousness. After the relaxation which 
naturally follows, she finds herself fully awake to 
the gladness of a new day and plans how to spend 
it wisely. Knowing that while asleep she has not 
breathed deeply enough to allow the most remote 
lung cells to exchange their poisonous gases for 
fresh oxygen and ozone, she now lies flat on her 
back and spends a few moments in slowly emptying 
and filling the lungs. She has had the room so 
thoroughly ventilated all night that the air is pure 
for this. To enlarge the chest for these deep 
breaths, she does not drop the diaphragm and 
crowd the abdomen down and out, but she stretches 
the ribs out so widely that air rushes through her 
dilated nostrils to fill' the lungs and make them oc- 



THE HOME A GYMNASIUM. 65 

cupy the large space formed. As the ribs widen 
the diaphragm flattens and the oblique abdominal 
muscles are stretched, thus giving the abdomen a 
flattened appearance. Now Mrs. Wise arises and 
takes a cold bath. As she briskly rubs the rough 
towel from head to foot she exercises almost every 
muscle and sets her blood to circulating so freely 
and the entire machinery of her body to working so 
harmoniously that she feels it is a joy just to live. 
When brushing her hair she stands well poised and 
widens the chest before lifting her arms — thus the 
trunk is held together in one compact whole, while 
the arms are free and light. One of Del Sarte's foun- 
dation principles was "solidity at the centre — free- 
dom at the circumference." 

By the time Mrs. Wise is neatly dressed fifteen 
minutes have elapsed since she awakened, but she 
does not count this time lost because her body must 
be kept a fit temple for her soul, and now she is 
better ready to attend to the duties of the day with 
a composure which Mrs. Foolish never experiences. 
In the words of Milton, 

"Grace is in all her steps, Heaven in her eyes, 
In every gesture, dignity and love." 

Believing that no exercise can perfect a body 
Which is poorly nourished — either by too much or 
not enough good food, or by that which is unwhole- 
some, Mrs. Wise makes a study of food values and 
provides for her family simple dishes suited to build 
up healthy bodily tissue. She moves about with 
a light, elastic step, and soon has an inviting break- 




Fig. 7— Improper Bending. 







Fig. 8— Proper Bending. 



68 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

fast prepared. Her kitchen is air)- and pleasant/ 
and her exercise has given her as good an appetite 
as her husband and children have gained in the 
meantime out in the garden. 

In going to the table she steps before her chair, 
then, gracefully pivoting on the balls of her feet 
and widening her chest, she bends her knees and 
swings down into the chair, feeling- so well that 
she has no need of a back to the chair. After 
an enjoyable meal her little girl exercises by clear- 
ing the table and wiping the dishes. Mrs. Wise 
stands well poised, and, bending slightly at the hips 
leans forward to her dishpan without compressing 
her chest, and not a drop of water is splashed upon 
her dress. By breathing and standing well she 
finds it a good exercise to sweep the dining room 
and kitchen while her daughter pushes the carpet 
sweeper around in the sitting room. 

She is now ready to go up stairs, and must carry a 
pitcher of Mater. Her usual manner of ascending 
the stairs is to. stoop and catch the lower part of her 
skirts in each hand so that they will be held up 
as her arms hang relaxed. Then, taking a wide 
breath, she lightly runs up stairs, exhaling when 
she reaches the top. But when she has something 
to carry she catches up her dress, then, taking a 
wide breath, she stoops to lift her burden, carries 
it a few steps at a time, and then stops to rest and 
inhale again. By taking these precautions she can 
go up and down stairs all that is necessary with- 
out any injury. When making beds she maintains 



THE HOME A GYMNASIUM. 69 

her good poise, and to tuck in the covers, bends at 
the hip joints instead of rounding her shoulders. 
Each time before throwing on a cover she takes a 
wide breath, and, without feeling any strain, moves 
her arms in as graceful a curve as in the pretty ex- 
ercises she learned at the gymnasium. Crawling 
on all fours is a good exercise, which she uses in 
wiping up the bathroom floor. 

In order to let her nerves and muscles gain 
strength for the work to follow she now lies flat 
on the floor for a relaxing exercise. Dropping her 
arms down on the floor in the easiest position, she 
closes her eyes and tries to fancy that a great 
power — gravitation — is pulling her through the 
floor, until she can completely relax herself into its 
grasp. Then she causes her mind to be a blank by 
forgetting everything and lies as though asleep for 
five minutes. Upon arising she feels as fresh as in 
the morning, and lightly runs down stairs to the hot 
irons awaiting her. 

Not wishing to overtax her standing muscles she 
sits to iron the plain pieces, and when standing is 
careful to retain a good position and keep her lungs 
well filled. The ironing completed she sits on the 
porch to prepare vegetables for dinner. Just before 
serving dinner she sits down and relaxes a moment 
or two. This short rest restores an equilibrium and 
assists digestion. As laughter is a fine exercise to 
increase circulation, and, in fact, tone up all the vital 
fluids, she sees that there is some cause for a merry 
innocent laugh at the dinner table. 




Fig. 9— Sweeping Incorrect. 



30 




Fig. 10— Sweeping Correct. 



*& 



TO WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

When the kitchen is again in order Mrs. Wise lies 
down with her children for some breathing and 
relaxing- exercises and the children take their nap. 
She dresses and then proceeds to her mending and 
sewing in a sunny, cheerful room. At the sewing 
machine she sits erect, keeps her chest full and when 
necessary to lean forward bends at the hips instead 
of curving the spine. The pedalling then does not 
strain the pelvic organs but is really a healthful ex- 
ercise. 

By singing she strengthens her throat and lungs 
and breaks the monotony of steady sewing until 
she feels that her life is "one long, sweet song." 

After supper her husband and children join her 
in song because they have learned that "music 
which hath charms to soothe the savage breast" 
has a wonderful harmonizing effect over the phy- 
sical as well as the mental being. 

Newman says: — "Man can control and. harmon- 
ize what seems amiss to flow." And although Mrs. 
Wise has had a day of hard work she has observed 
nature's law of exercise and rest and has retained 
a mental and bodily poise all day, hence she is 
neither tired nor nervous, and now can enjoy the 
papers and books witli her husband. Before re- 
tiring she goes through a few exercises which call 
into play muscles not used much during the day 
and which enable her the better to relax and go to 
sleep. 

Mrs. Wise is plump, graceful and attractive, with 
a clear complexion, while Mrs. Foolish is thin and 




Fig. 11— Bitting Incorrect. 



76 WOMANL.Y BEAUTS'. 

But in emphasizing exercise we must never for- 
get its complement — repose. The one is incomplete 
without the other, but a judicious amount of both 
result in a harmony which means health. There is 
a great deal of truth in the little couplet: — 

"Joy and temperance and repose 
Slam the door on the doctor's nose." 

Have you not noticed how delightful is the pres- 
ence of a reposeful woman, and what a charming 
influence she wields? 

Most of us waste an amount of energy which, 
if conserved, would enable us to do many useful 
things we feel unable to do. We rock in rocking- 
chairs, toy with pencils, or our fingers, and in 
various ways scatter our nerve force until we have 
none left for valuable service. 

With all the members of a family interested in 
making a successful home gymnasium, who can 
estimate the good it may do and the happy, whole- 
some influence outgoing from it. 

But in striving to gain complete control over our 
nerves and muscles to make them our strong, will- 
ing servants that we may accomplish our full destiny 
on this earth, let us not be impatient but ever bear 
in mind that "Nature in her productions slow as- 
pires by just degrees to reach perfection's height." 

We should be satisfied with a slow, if sure, prog- 
ress, for as Phillips Brooks says: — "The duty of phy- 
sical health and the duty of spiritual purity and 
loftiness are not two duties — they are two parts of 
one duty, which is the living of the completest life 
it is possible for man to live." 



fiealtb ana Beauty. 

By Chari.es H. Shepard, M. D. 

A beautiful woman, living in one of our Southern 
States, recently wrote me to know what she should 
do to preserve her good looks, saying: — "My skin 
for the last ten months has shown a decided ten- 
dency to wrinkle more than my years justify; it is 
sallow and dry, and the flesh has fallen away under 
the eyes. My general health is not good, and my 
physician is bolstering me up on cod liver oil. 
While old age is perhaps honorable, a sallow, 
wrinkled complexion at thirty-two- is not desirable. 
We are not sufficiently advanced here for a Turkish 
bath, which I very much regret, but can you not 
tell me what treatment would come nearest to it, 
to strengthen and tone the skin and arrest any fur- 
ther wasting if possible? Alas, we cannot replace 
our complexion as easily as we do our bonnets, so 
please come to my aid in preserving the only one I 
shall ever have, by your best knowledge as to the 
care of the skin." To this T answered: — 

Dear Madam — In reply to your inquiry, I would 
say that it is every woman's duty to do all in her 
power to preserve her good looks. Your complex- 
ion depends entirely upon the condition of health 



7a womanly beauty. 

which merely shines through the skin. To enjoy 
health, which is synonymous with a good complex- 
ion, we must first cleanse and purify the blood, for 
that is the life current. Even the darkest com- 
plexioned persons can have a clean, clear skin by 
careful attention to the laws of health. 

Good digestion is of the first importance, and 
can be secured only by a well regulated simple diet. 
Eat only three times a day of that which your 
stomach can readily digest, masticating the food 
thoroughly. I need hardly tell you to avoid what 
is called richly cooked food, and such things as 
pickles, pepper, spices, fats, &c, or those salted 
meats, which are so commonly used in your part 
of the country; they do not give the best nutri- 
ment. Rather let your food be of the plainest, 
simplest kind. Fresh ripe fruits may well hold a 
prominent place in the dietary. Bear in mind that 
it is not lU o quantity of food one eats, but simply 
that which is appropriated to the uses of the sys- 
tem that does good ; all over that is but a poisonous 
burden. Drink nothing at meals stronger than 
weak, black tea — not even that, unless you think 
some drink necessary. By no means wash the food 
clown with any liquid. Avoid ccffee as if it were 
poison. One thing that greatly injures the com- 
plexion of persons livine in the South is the ex- 
cessive use of coffee. With the male population 
the use of tobacco is also an aggravation of this 
trouble. Never touch wine, beer or tonics of any 
kind. They are supposed to stimulate the system 



HEALTH AND BEAUTY. 79 

so that it will take a greater amount of nourish- 
ment, but they give only a fictitious sense of 
strength that is by no means desirable or reliable; 
beside this, they hinder the elimination of used up 
tissue, which is very injurious to the complexion. 
The reaction from them leaves the system in a 
worse condition than before their use. Again, 
never partake of candies, and use but a moderate 
amount of sugar with your food. To' sum it up, 
practice moderation in all things at the table. 

Exercise at least two hours each day in the open 
air, beside whatever is practicable in doors. Habit- 
ual outdoor exercise is one of the most effectual 
means of prolonging life. Begin your exercises 
very moderately and gradually add to them as 
your strength increases, and they will soon become 
a delight. Horseback riding is very desirable. 
Dance whenever opportunity presents itself, avoid- 
ing as much as possible dusty and overheated 
rooms. It is by exercise that the fullest amount of 
vitalizing power is realized from the food con- 
sumed, and this produces in each individual cell an 
energy that promotes the waste products of the 
tissues and favors their rapid elimination. 

Try in some way to secure a good sweating bath 
at least once a week. This can easily be done, if 
you have a bathtub in your house it will make a 
fair substitute for a Turkish bath . Have three or 
four inches of quite warm water in the tub, then 
sit in it and lave the water over your lower limbs 
and body, at the same time let the hotter water run 



WOMANLY BEAUTY. 



into the tub and as yon can bear it gradually in- 
crease the temperature with the increasing water. 
It will not take long to get into a profuse perspira- 
tion. After that is fully secured, pull out the plug 
to let the hot water off, and at the same time let 
the cold water run and just dash a little over the 
body and then step out, dry well, and you have an 
improvised Turkish bath. A very good time for 
this is just before retiring, never immediately after 
eating. If you have not an ordinary bathtub, what 
is called a sitz-tub, with a pailful of water at no 
degrees, and a foot-tub half full of water at the 
same temperature, will secure the same result. Sit 
in the one and put the feet in the other, then cover, 
first with a sheet, and afterward with a blanket, to 
keep the heat and steam around the body. About 
fifteen to twenty minutes of this will generally se- 
cure the desired condition. Then wash off with a 
little cool water. This is not only a comfortable 
form of bath, but it has been used with much suc- 
cess in many forms of disease. The folding ther- 
mal bath cabinet, which can be used in any room, 
and can now be obtained at small expense, will 
make a very good substitute for a Turkish bath. 
As a sanitary measure it is always well to wash the 
hands just before meal time, but the face and body 
need only one good washing each day, except in 
hot weather, when it might be twice a day. Cos- 
metics, powders, &c, are in no way desirable. 
Touch none of the advertised compounds, for 
often they are very injurious. Only the purest 



HEALTH AND BEAUTY. 81 

of vegetable oils should be used on the face or body. 
If you could secure the services of a good mas- 
seuse, it would be of great help to you, particularly 
if you could have her manipulations immediately 
after one of these hot baths. What is called face 
massage is a wonderfully good way of rubbing out 
wrinkles. Be sure that all the secretive functions 
of the body are in good order, but never use pur- 
gatives for that purpose. The use of warm water 
is a more excellent way. Do not get into the habit 
of dosing yourself with any kind of drug medica- 
tion, not even with cod liver oil. Touch nothing 
of that kind but what your physician says you 
must take, and tell him to give you as little as 
possible. 

Sleep in a cold room, with windows open at 
night. "Of all things," said a noted actress, "a suf- 
ficiency of sleep is the one thing most essential to 
the preservation of beauty." It is during sleep that 
assimilation is most perfectly carried on, and it is 
essential, in order ito obtain dreamless, refreshing 
slumber, that there shall be an intelligent regard to 
the diet and habits of the body. Those persons 
whose brains are plethoric with blood are dreamers 
and strangers to true repose. This is another rea- 
son why tonics of whatever kind, as well as late 
suppers, should be avoided. 

Cultivate noble thoughts, for they serve to 
mould the countenance. The highest beauty is 
that of expression, and the cultivation of this re- 
quires the crushing out of all low motives and pas- 



82 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

sions. Mental exercise and mental recreation, 
such as study and reading of good books, will be of 
great service in this, and give to beauty an endur- 
ing foundation. Listen to good music when you 
can, and cultivate your musical talent. Practice 
self-denial with cheerfulness. Contentment and 
good humor outrival all medical inventions as a 
preservative of good looks. Be willing to take 
pains, knowing that self-sacrifice leads to a higher 
life, and that virtue is certain to be its own reward. 
It is pleasing to contemplate the advantages 
and beauties which are in store for human beings 
when they shall have been purified by an era of 
right living. 

Hoping I have not given you an overlong list of 
directions, and assuring you that by observing 
them you will both preserve and enhance your 
good looks, I remain, 

Yours sincerely, 

Chas. H. Shepard, M. D. 
Brooklyn, N. Y. 

(We commend the advice given by Dr. Shepard 
to his correspondent as being of very great im- 
portance to all who would preserve beauty. He 
has no sympathy with the idea that beauty can be 
attained or preserved independent of good health, 
and this the following of his advice would lead to.) 



tbe influence of tbougbt Upon Beauty. 

By Dr. W. R. C. Latson. 

Beauty of face consists of two elements, form 
and expression. By form is meant the shape of the 
features. Form is, in the first place, a matter of 
heredity. Expression depends upon the individ- 
ual's mental condition. 

The shape of the features, although determined 
in the first place by the parentage, may be radical- 
ly altered either through the patient's physical 
condition as regards health or by the habitual ex- 
pression. 

Referring to the influence of health on inherited 
features reminds me of a young woman of thirty, 
highly cultivated, the daughter of two typical New 
England people. She bore a close resemblance to 
her parents. She was slender, inerect and rigid, 
nervous and under nourished, tier face was thin, 
drawn and lined, while the forehead and the cor- 
ners of the eyes and mouth showed numerous fine 
lines and wrinkles. About a year ago she came 
under my advice for nervousness and insomnia. 
The treatment prescribed was entirely hygienic, 
consisting of proper food, certain baths, medical 
gymnastics and the encouragement of a more re- 
laxed mental attitude. Later, facial massage was 



S4 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

prescribed, also a series of special exercises for 
grace and poise. In one year this young woman 
gained over thirty pounds in weight and is to-day 
in prime health. 'Her mental powers have greatly 
increased, and she possesses a magnetic feminine 
personality entirely lacking a year ago. 

The most marked change, however, is in her 
face. The thin, sallow and deep-lined face of last 
year has disappeared. The roller massage and the 
baths have stimulated the skin. The proper diet 
and active digestion have fed the face with good, 
rich blood. The relaxation exercises and im- 
proved mental and physical poise have developed 
serenity and repose of expression. The entire face 
has changed owing to the change in the patient's 
state of health. 

It is not too much to say that a face, drawn, 
gaunt, sallow, deep-lined and wrinkled is never 
natural to any person at any age. Such a face is 
always a sign of ill-health, and is capable of being 
radically changed by a proper course of local and 
general' treatment. No woman is to blame if she 
is not beautiful at fifteen; but any woman is to 
blame if she is not beautiful before she reaches 
forty. Beauty mav sometimes be inherited. It 
may always be achieved. The shape of the features, 
then, depends largely upon the state of health. A 
thin, sallow, wrinkled, prematurely old face will be- 
come smooth, rosy and rounded through proper 
care of the face itself, and of the body, of which 
that face is a part. 



B 3 






86 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

But a face may have fine, regular features, per- 
fect coloring and smooth skin, and yet fall far short 
of beauty. For beaut.v is more than perfection of 
form and coloring. Beauty depends largely upon 
expression, and expression, as we have seen, is the 
result of the mental state. 

It is difficult to make women realize that next to 
health their habitual mental attitude is the most 
powerful influence to make or to destroy their 
beauty. 

I say next to health. Often the mental state is 
more important than health, for a thought vividly 
held before the mind will affect the health itself, 
making the sick woman well and strong or the well 
woman sick. The woman who realizes the power 
of her thoughts and feelings upon her health simply 
WILL not allow worry, vexation or depression to 
upset her. After a little practice she finds that 
she NEED not be the slave of her surroundings, 
that she need not be affected by them. Then 
she has found the philosopher's stone (which was 
never a stone, but only a certain mental attitude). 
Then she has found a power at whose touch the 
base metals care, trouble, misfortune are changed 
into the pure gold of spiritual development. Then 
she enters into her kingdom — woman's kingdom of 
serene beauty and infinite power. Then she be- 
comes the mother of all good, as the mother of all 
life. 

Thought, then, has a powerful effect not only 
upon the physical health but upon the expression 



88 WOM-aSTLY BEAUTY. 

of the face. More than this, the nature of the 
thoughts habitually entertained so impress their 
distinctive mark upon the features (to say nothing 
of form, voice, gait and gesture) that to the stu- 
dent or the highly organized sensitive the character 
of the individual, his dominant thoughts, his weak- 
ness, his dangers, are often apparent at a 
glance. Even people of ordinary intelligence are 
able to distinguish strongly marked types. \\ ho 
could fail to distinguish Rousseau and Napoleon, 
Heine and Bismarck, Air. John L. Sullivan and 
Ralph Waldo Emerson by their physical charac- 
teristics? 

At this point the natural question will arise, 
What is the connection between thought and ex- 
pression? For a complete answer to this quest ion 
those interested are referred to a work which 1 now 
have in preparation, "The Genesis of Gesture and 
Expression." For the present only a brief outline 
can be indicated of the process in virtue of which 
the mental state determines expression. 

The face is a mass of muscular fibres covered 
with the skin. The dissection of the muscular 
fibres is difficult and unsatisfactory; for, instead of 
being separate, like muscles in other parts of the 
body, they are closely interwoven in all directions, 
sending fibres to the bony framework, to each 
other and to the skin. Any separation of the mus- 
cles of the face is apt to be misleading. Into this 
mass of muscular tissue are inserted the ends of 
the nerves which cause movement. Activity of 
these nerves depends either upon thought or upon 




Showing downward tension of the muscles, producing distor- 
tion and disfigurement. 



WOMANLY BEAUTY. 



a special act of will. Now, each thought or emo- 
tion sends its own particular message to the mus- 
cles, resulting in a distinctive expression corre- 
sponding to each thought. This thought message 
to the muscles— this, that we call expression— 
cannot by any possibility be entirely controlled. 

For instance, the person of intense will, every 
time he wills to do anything, sends out uncon- 
sciously and involuntarily a message to certain 
muscles of the face. The muscles under the 
stimulus of the nervous telegraphic impulse, 
pull the features into the expression corre- 
sponding to volition — an expression familiar 
to all. Through constant repetition of this 
message the features in time become set in that 
pose, and the face settles into an expression of 
decision and character. Then the face, which be- 
fore was plain and uninteresting, becomes marked 
by magnetic power and charm— the face which was 
merely pretty becomes radiant with feminine dig- 
nity and appeal. 

If the pose of the features is habitually extreme, 
whether the expression in itself be pleasant or oth- 
erwise, the features will be displaced to so great a 
degree that lines will be formed. There are lines 
of laughter as well as of worry, lines of jollity as 
well as of sadness. A little attention to the pose 
of the features, avoiding any extreme expression, 
either wide mouthed laughter or grim sadness, will 
prevent the formation of wrinkles and lines; or, if 
already present, will do much toward their eradica- 
tion. 




Fig. 6. 

EausMer. 

Showing lines produced by excessive mirth. 



92 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

The question of the connection between thought 
and emotion and specific muscular activities opens 
an interesting field of inquiry; but one which can 
now only be touched upon. The origin and growth 
of expression lie deep in the history of those rudi- 
mentary, sub-human animals preceding man. To 
close the jaws and move the head from side to side 
was their natural mode of refusing a proffered ar- 
ticle. With them it meant refusal. With their 
human prototype it means, refusal, negation. To 
bend the head forward, reaching the desired some- 
thing, was associated in their minds with accept- 
ance". To us it means acceptance, acquiescence. 
To lower and thrust out the jaw meant with them 
a threat. With us a corresponding gesture means 
— anger, menace. To set the muscles of the brow 
and jaw means with the lower animals determina- 
tion.' resistance. With us the same gesture means 
the same thing. 

So, in this manner, a connection has been 
created between mental state and muscular activ- 
ity of face and body. There are occasions when by 
carefully controlling the features this muscular ac- 
tivity can be so concealed as to deceive an ordinarv 
observer: but such control could not by any possi- 
bility be long maintained. Even when practised 
it will deceive only the untrained. To him who 
understands the relation between thought and fea- 
ture the face is like an open page— something like 
a page of Greek which can be read only by him 
whoi knows the characters. 




« 5 

c^ S, 




3 r* 





04 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

Not only, however, does thought produce its 
distinctive expression in the face. It produces an 
actual change in the form of the face. Muscular 
action always causes an increased flow of blood to 
the muscle exercised. The increased flow of blood 
means an increase in the size of the muscle. Now, 
bones as well as muscles are provided with nerves 
and blood vessels, and any increase in the size of 
the muscles is accompanied by an increase in the 
size of the bone to which those muscles are at- 
tached. Applying this principle to the face we 
find that expression consists simply of the action 
of certain muscles which are frequently or habitual- 
ly in use. This means that the muscles so used 
will receive a larger supply of blood; and that, 
therefore, they and the bony parts to which they 
are attached will outgrow other parts of the face. 
Thus the face gradually changes its form, corre- 
sponding always to the habitual mental state. 

So much for the physiology of expression. I 
cannot hope in those few words to have made the 
matter clear, but possibly enough has been said to 
demonstrate that there is a scientific basis for the 
assertion that the habitual mental state is a most 
powerful influence in promoting or destroying 
beautv. To think well is to live well. To think well 
is to be well. To think well is to look well. 

But this is all general, and my article would be 
incomplete if I did not give a few hints as to the 
prevention and eradication of those faults of fea- 
ture due directlv to bad thinking. 




r^%^ 





WOMANLY BEAUTY. 



The greatest beautifier is not Mother Pinkham's 
Favorite Remedy or Professor Killum's Dead Shot 
Arsenic Tablets. All nostrums and cosmetics are 
at least injurious. Many of them are deadly. Their 
use is always inadvisable. The greatest beautifier 
is love — love that embraces all the world in its 
SCO pe — love that includes kindness, thoughtful- 
ness, forgiveness, peace, good wishes toward every 
living thing. First and foremost as a beautifier 
comes love. And then those other sister senti- 
ments—hopefulness and trust. The mind which 
loves and trusts and hopes sends no messages of 
evil import to the face. The drawn, sallow, hard 
and deep-lined face of her who learns to love and 
trust and hope gradually softens and relaxes, gains 
smoothness and contour and feminine charm. 

While love and allied sentiments are powerful 
influences in beautifying the face and removing in- 
harmonious lines and wrinkles, sentiments of an 
opposite nature are no less potent in destroying 
beauty. Yielding to a spirit of worry, dislike, grief 
or remorse will in a few months implant on the 
face disfiguring lineaments which can be removed 
only by months of careful treatment. Those wo- 
men who would retain the contour and smooth- 
ness of youth should carefully train the mind to 
habits of serenity, kindliness, trust and hope, and 
should sedulously avoid the opposite emotions of 
care, worry, anxiety, anger and irritability. 

But for those women who, through ignorance 
or heedlessness, have allowed their faces to become 




i 










& o 




gs WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

prematurely aged, sallow, thin and drawn, disfig- 
ured by deep lines and wrinkles of thought, care, 
anxiety or irritability — can such disfigurement be 
remedied? If so, how? To the first of these queries 
I answer, without hesitation, "Yes; such a face can 
in a few months be so altered as to be scarcely re- 
cognizable. I see many faces which, under a few 
weeks of proper treatment, could be mad_e to look 
ten years younger. Youthfulness of face (and also 
of figure and movement) can be regained by prop- 
er treatment." And what's the treatment? As to 
treatment, so much depends upon the peculiar tem- 
perament and habits of the patient that only the 
most general directions can be given. The treat- 
ment may be embodied in two words, proper living 
and proper thinking; but each patient will need 
special prescription as to what is for her proper liv- 
ing and proper thinking. 

To those who realize that beauty of face (as of 
form and movement) is an achievement as well as 
a gift — to those who 'are willing to pay the price 
in thought and effort to regain beauty — the fol- 
lowing hints will be serviceable: — 

In the first place, remember that the face is but 
an index of the general health, physical and men- 
tal. Resolve, then, to live healthfully. If prac- 
ticable place yourself under the advice of some 
reputable hygienic physician whose prescribed 
course of diet, exercise, massage and bathings you 
are prepared to follow strictly. Two meals daily 
of simple, nourishing food, proper baths, much free 
exercise in the open air and perhaps general mas- 



THE INFLUENCE OE THOUGHT. 99 

sage will be found beneficial. Unless inclined to 
obesity drink freely of pure water on rising, on re- 
tiring and between meals. So much for general 
treatment. As regards the face itself, local treat- 
ment is important, but here again it is difficult to 
give directions applicable to all cases. 

The use of the facial massage roller, the flesh 
brush and of a good cold cream or skin food will 
generally be found beneficial. For facial defects, 
such as drooping lips or eyelids, drawn, one-sided 
features and so on, a system of special exercises has 
been devised, the effect of which is often remark- 
able. 

But the most important factor of all in beauty 
as in health is the mental attitude. If you would be 
beautiful, avoid all thoughts of evil, all unkindli- 
ness, all malice, all worry, dislike and irritability. 
Realize that every moment of such thought is an 
added line in the face (as it is an added drain upon 
the vital forces). Learn a broad tolerance of sin 
and weakness, a general love for all humankind — 
realize that no one can injure you but yourself — 
take this mental attitude and try to maintain it 
at all times. You will not wholly succeed; but — 
you will not wholly fail. And then as day after day 
you make the same effort to live upon the higher 
plane the tense face and body relax; the lines and 
contours of the face and the movements of the 
body soften and relax; and so gradually, helped by 
the general hygienic life and the local attention, 
the face changes. 

LofC. 



100 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

Nor is this all. The face is like the title page of 
a book. It reveals the contents. Beauty is not 
skin deep. In fact, it is everything else but skin 
deep. Beauty is an effect, and cannot be consid- 
ered apart from its causes. Those causes lie deep 
within the personality of the individual — her hab- 
its of eating, drinking, sleeping, working, recrea- 
ti 0)n — more than all, because determining all these 
— her thought life. 

Only by proper thinking on all subjects — health, 
conduct of life, relation to infinity— can woman 
attain to the highest health and the truest beauty. 
For beauty is but the index of health, and the state 
of health 'is primarily determined by the mental 
habits. 



H Photographer's Opinion, 

In a recent conversation with Mr. Rockwood, 
who has photographed probably more and better 
specimens of physical beauty than any other man 
living, he said: "The so-called beautiful woman is 
rarely beautiful, so far as form and features are con- 
cerned when compared with classic models. A 
woman may have a pleasant personality, a sweet 
expression/ a pretty skin and eyes or hair and a 
lovely character which produces the effect of a 
beautiful impression on the minds of her friends. 
She acquires a reputation for beauty when every 
feature is slightly out of proportion, or when some 
features are positively ugly. All this comes out in 
a oicture, and people instantly criticise the artist. 



WOMANLY BEAUTY. 101 

It is a well-known sentiment among the painters 
and sculptors that they dread having the woman 
whose friends all consider her beautiful as the sub- 
ject of their skill; for they know that all will expect 
a reproduction of their impression of the woman 
and not of the woman herself. So mature beauty 
is often temperamental and not physical. 

"It is not only among the more-fortune-favored 
people that the beautiful types are seen, for though 
the careful attention paid to diet and exercise, the 
exquisite care and the becoming and dainty attire 
have a tendency to enhance the charms of a woman, 
still genuine beauties are found in the narrow 
streets and dingy tenements. The average of re- 
ally beautiful types is said to be greater among the 
hillsides of Ireland and Italy than it would be 
among people from more prosperous surroundings, 
while one of a famous artist's exquisite heads is a 
reproduction of the face of a peasant girl in a char- 
ity school, and it is not nearly so beautiful as the 
original." 




Facial Massage, 



facial massage —Tor tfte Prevention of UJrinto 
le$ ana Jlge in tbe faoe. 



By Er,i,A Van Pooi^ 



During the past few 
years much, recogni- 
tion has been given 
to the value of massage 
as a preserver and re- 
storer of facial color 
and contour, and many 
[and contradictory are 
the rules of the author- 
ities laid down for its 
practice, Enthusiasts 
upon the subject ride 
their hobby through 
the length and breadth of the face, meet- ing at cross 
sections of the muscles and nerves, and pass with- 
out speaking, each being so sure of his or her own 
route being the right one. 

To those who are seekers after truth upon this 
subject, I will endeavor to make plain why certain 
movements and methods are necessary to good 
results in thus exercising the face. 

In woman, the entire countenance is more 
rounded than in man. Beauty of contour presents 
a perfect curve of cheek, and the chin and jaw 




104 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

should be delicately rounded. This is in keeping 
with the law of sex. "A man for strength, and a 
woman for grace," and the rule permits no sharp- 
ness or angularity of feature in woman to be con- 
sidered anything but abnormal. We will consider 
the bones of the face as the foundation for muscular 
or fatty tissue, which gives the desired contour. 
The bone is a frame in which the possibility of 
change or moderation is less than other formations 
which go toward making up the human body, and 
it is the scat of inherited likeness. In childhood, 
when the animal predominates over the mineral 
matter of the bones, much may be done in chang- 
ing the features by proper pressure and massage. 
With the added years we must depend for change 
in the face upon massage of the tissues, and the cul- 
tivation of a good mind. Being well aware that 
physiology and anatomy are dry reading, I will call 
attention to the accompanying cut of exposed 
muscles of the face, and describe only those which 
are most prominently concerned in presenting con- 
tour. Through the agency of the nerves, the mus- 
cles are capable of contraction, and are the volun- 
tary or involuntary signs of emotion. Without 
nerve strength the muscle would be but an inert 
piece of solid tissue, and without the blood con- 
stantly providing nourishment for its continued 
power to act, its power would be short lived. 

When a muscle is exercised a portion of its con- 
stituents are consumed, chemical and vital changes 
begin, and it is necessary for new ones to take their 




Muscles <_f the Face 



105 



106 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

place. These new particles are derived from the 
blood; let this life giving fluid become poor or slug- 
gish and weakness and decay is the result. The 
object of massage is to stimulate the tissues to 
throw off worn out particles and receive new 
strength from active circulation of the blood. 
Facial massage is but a form of exercise for the 
face. Inactivity of any muscle means that the part 
so neglected will become weak and lacking in 
healthy development. Neglect of facial muscles 
will produce thin, soft, debilitated and sagging 
flesh of face. 

In describing certain muscles which are most 
formative of feature, I will first mention the oc- 
cipito frontalis, which arises in a web of fibers at 
the base of the skull, and descends over the fore- 
head, where it fills the office of raising or arching 
the eyebrow. 

The forehead distinctively belongs to the human 
face. The width, breadth and smoothness of this 
page, each reveals characteristic personality. It 
also speaks, and the eyebrow is its interpreter. 
Habitual expression of inquiry here is to blame for 
permanent lines across this page. The orbicularis 
palpebrarum is another muscle whose office — or the 
stronger portion of it — is to draw down the eye- 
brow, and it thus exhibits its work in what we 
speak of as a frown. A permanency of this expres- 
sion is not in keeping with a happy nature, and is 
one of the least desired lines. The muscles of the 
eye fit about in a sheath like manner, one control- 




Muscle i of Neck and 



10 g WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

ling the upward turn of the eyeball; another the 
downward, etc., and owing to its spherical struc- 
ture the eyeball should never receive a form of 
massage which tends to flatten it. A very im- 
portant muscle, viewed from the standpoint of 
beauty and expression, is the sphincter muscle of 
the mouth. The mouth is the centre of expression, 
and it is here that the greatest number of muscles 
connected with expression are concentrated. 
When age, or long continued illness, or grief, or 
mental strain, begin to tell their story in the face, 
the mouth is the first point to yield. One of the 
first lessons in facial expression is control of the 
circular muscle which surrounds the mouth. Too 
thick loose lips, or too thin tight lips, can be moder- 
ated in their appearance by control of this muscle. 
Lips which seem dry and drawn and devoid of firm- 
ness, can be restored by strengthening this muscle. 
Two more muscles controlling the mouth are 
called the levator labii proprius, and the levator 
anguli oris. The one raises the upper lip, and the 
other the angle of the mouth. A weakening of the 
latter will cause the corners of the mouth to fall, 
and give the entire face a look of sadness or de- 
jection. Long after the conditions are past which 
caused this droop to the corners of the mouth, the 
droop remains, the habit of expression becoming a 
permanency. The first line to mar the face is the 
line from the inner corner of the eye to the corner 
of the mouth. It is easier to preserve than to re- 
store, but the latter can be done in any face where 
there is sufficient strength of nutritive system. 



. [FACIAL MASSAGE.; 100 

The" first effort in this direction should be to re- 
move the causes which have led to this weakness 
of muscle and failing tissue. The next move should 
be to take up a course of health giving rules and 
follow them. Eliminate the clogged waste ma- 
terial from the system, eat nourishing foods, take 
all the fresh air possible, exercise, bathe and rest. 




Dr Forest's Facial 

Massage Roller. 

Patented. 



Then exercise the face with Dr. Forrest's Facial 
Massage Roller. This little instrument is made of 
ebony and ivory, with soft rubber wheels, which 
roll in an even pressure upon the tissues, bringing 
the glow of life to the flesh with every turn. The 
advantage of this form of massage over that of the 
fingers is shown in our illustrations, but I will try 
to make the difference still more plain. When 
one attempts to rub the face the strength of the 
effort is expended upon the skin, and it will be 
dragged and pulled about according to its weak- 
ness and flabbiness. When the face is firm and 
plump the skin is closely adherent to the tissues 
below, and greater benefit may be obtained by 
massagfe with the hands than where the skin is 



HO WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

loose and lifeless. Very thorough massage with the 
hands, without an understanding of the muscular 
formation, sometimes results in more harm than 
good. 

The roller presses upon but a small portion at a 
time; when the fingers move they push or drag the 
skin; when the roller moves it rolls smoothly over 
firm or loose flesh the same. The most skillful mas- 
suer cannot get so even a pressure with the fingers 
as she can with the roller. The latter will descend 
to the deepest and most obscure muscle, bringing 
life to the same, without dragging other parts of 
the face with it. 

The benefits of the roller are not confined to the 
improvement of the appearance. The efforts which 
induce an added blood supply to furnish nutrition 
to the parts, also contribute to the strength and 
vigor of the nerves. Much of the tired expression 
in some faces is the story of starved nerves. Many 
weak eyes take on a new strength from the use of 
the roller on the adjoining parts of the face. Many 
cases of chronic neuraligia could be cured by this 
method of feeding the nerves. Headaches which 
are caused by over study or brain work can be cured 
in twenty minutes by rolling the head — over the 
top, down over cord at side of neck. Women 
should tie a handkerchief over the head to avoid 
tansrlins: the hair. 




Effect of Hand Massage. 



112 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE FACIAL MASSAGE ROLLER 

It is important that the face be thoroughly clean 
before massaging and, if necessary, it should be well 
washed, using a soft brush or Turkish towelling- 
cloth with warm water and a pure soap, always fol- ■ 
lowing with a thorough bathing in cold water, as 
this overcomes the relaxation of the hot water and 
stimulates the capillary circulation. 

It should always be applied with a firm and 
steady pressure and rather a vigorous movement. 
For lines across the forehead roll up and down; for 
lines arising perpendicularly from bridge of nose 
roll across, and right here let me advise you to 
cease the contraction of muscle that causes those 
lines Many present the habitual expression of sur- 
prise or continual frown, and are unconscious of 
it. Do not try to overcome a condition, continuing 
a practice which causes it. _ 

To strengthen the muscles governing the mouth 
close the lips, roll across and up and down. 

Roll upward from the corner of the mouth 
toward the top of ear, and from the nose outward 
toward the ear. 

Roll the outward corner of the eye up and down 
across the wrinkles. 

Press the roller close to the outer corner at base 
of nose and roll well back and forth with a short, 
digging motion. This motion may serve effec- 
tively in much of the work with the roller; a little 
practice will soon prove the best movement with 
it. 




MASSAGE FOR THE FACE. 
113 



Ill 



WOMANLY BEAUTY. 



Roll well over the cheek bone, outwardly and 
upward over side of the face in front of the ear. 

Roll well with upward movement over the angle 
of the mouth from the sides of the chin. 

Remember there should never be a downward 
movement over the cheek. 

Roll the Neck— the left side with the right hand, 
and the right side with the left hand. (These rules 
are given for self treatment.) The lines on the side 
of the neck will respond rapidly to the war waged 
upon them, but a thin, scrawny neck requires much 
patience. 

For double chin (and this is not always caused by 
excessive fat, but rather by relaxed muscle) hold the 
roller as in illustration— rolling back and forth, and 
o-ive regular, systematic rolling from five to ten 
minutes morning and night, and results will soon 
appear, as this particular fault is not slow to remedy. 
For the lines and sagging under the eye.— Only 
the gentlest massage should be given about this 
delicate organ. The safest treatment is applied by 
the cushion of the forefinger. Rub under the eye, 
toward the nose, all rules to the contrary notwith- 
standing; then very gently, and over the eyeball 
outwardly in the same direction the eyebrow 
grows. This encircling of the eyeball a few times 
with the finger will strengthen the muscles, but 
as the sagging and fine lines under the eye often 
betray some internal derangement or weakness of 
visionary nerves, one must not expect too much 
from massage of this part. Add to the practice of 




MASSAGE FOR THE FACE- 
US 



WOMANLY BEAUTY. 



these rules, regularity and perseverance, and your 
results will be entirely satisfying. 

In many cases an external treatment in the shape 
cf skin food, or cream, or in eruptions, a healing 
balm, is advisable, in connection with the roller. 
Such' should be applied after the rolling of the face. 
The benefit of any external food or lotion is gauged 
by its proper absorption by the tissues. The hot 
blood brought to the surface by the use of the roller 
literally takes up the preparation applied, and feeds, 
or cures, bv being promptly carried into the flesh. 

Manv ladies could testify to the ill effects of 
greasy compounds, which, when applied to the skin, 
remained on the surface. Such treatment is but a 
waste of time. Study the law of absorption by in- 
creased circulation, and then be sure that your 
remedial preparations are fine in their nature and 
pure in their manufacture. The use of a good 
powder is at times advisable. It serves as a protec- 
tion, as when the face is to be exposed to the 
wind and dust, and prevents the pores from filling 
with worse matter; but be sure it is not composed 
of poisons. 

FOR TREATMENT OF THE NECK, WHEN ABUSED BY HIGH 
TIGHT COLLARS. 

Because of one of fashion's stamps, a round, per- 
fect neck is the exception and not the rule. Begin 
to restore the beauty of the neck by insisting upon 
a more soft neck dressing. Wear the throat of 
your gowns open, when indoors; give the neck a 
chance to improve. Then give it thorough treat- 




MASSAGE FOR THE NECK. 
117 



118 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

ment every night — and always give the neck the 
benefit of the same attention as the face — and at 
the same time. Begin this improvement of the 
neck by washing well with plenty of soap and warm 
water. Rinse in cold water, dry on soft towel and 
roll lightly, but evenly, around the neck with the 
Facial Roller — the right side with the left hand, and 
vice versa — for ten minutes. The exercise of drop- 
ping the head slowly forward, as far as it will go, 
then back as far as it will go, then allowing it to roll 
around limp, first to the right and then to the left, 
is a great help in developing the neck that seems 
to have suffered from imprisonment. Then, as a 
last course, bathe again in warm water and rub in 
a good skin food, as an external nourishment to the 
starved tissues. This treatment, persisted in for a 
month, will prove its benefits, though a loneer time 
may be necessary to restore bad cases. 



Cbe pair- Tt$ Care and Culture, 

By Albert Turner. 

Nature intends that the head of each member of 
the human family should be covered with hair, 
which affords protection from the changes in tem- 
perature, is also an adornment, and people should 
not become bald even in advanced years if the gen- 
eral health is well maintained. 

A fine head of hair is always to be admired in man, 
woman or child, and we are justified in efforts to 
secure and retain it. 

We do not inherit bald heads, but do inherit a 
tendency to have good, strong hair or poor and 
weak hair; but all have hair to start with, and much 
of its character and continuance must depend upon 
the care that is given to it. 

Now, hair itself does not primarily become dis- 
eased, but its failure is due to conditions, in which 
it is not properly nourished and so becomes lifeless, 
loses its vitality, changes color, is weakened at the 
roots and falls out. 

There are various causes for this, as diseases 
which lessen the general vitality of the system, 
nervous troubles and local causes affecting the 
healthfulness and the vigor of the scalp. 

To secure and retain a good head of hair the body 
should be well nourished and kept in a healthful 
condition and mental strain and causes of nervous- 



,20 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

ness should be avoided as much as possible. The 
scalp should be kept clean and remain loose over 
the skull, not adhering to it. 

It is often asked why it is that men become bald 
and women as a general rule do not, and various 
answers have been given. We believe there are 
good phvsiological reasons for this. The hair is 
nourished and fed by the circulation of the blood 
through the scalp; it is necessary that this should 
be properlv maintained to promote a good condi- 
tion of the hair, and whatever interferes with it 
should be avoided. Have a string drawn moder- 
ately tight about the finger or arm and it would 
soon suffer from the want of a good circulation of 
the blood, and if continued long the part would 
wither and become shrunken. This is what hap- 
pens to the scalp when a close fitting, heavy hat is 
worn, for it is as though a hand were tied tightly 
about the head; it seriously interferes with the cir- 
culation of the blood through the scalp, thus affect- 
ing the nourishment of the scalp and the hair. 
Women do not wear close fitting head coverings 
and so escape these conditions. 

Another and very important reason why women 
do not lose their hair and become bald is because 
they wear it long, as is the custom with women and 
not with men. 

The roots of the hair need to be exercised to 
give them strength and the scalp exercised to keep 
it elastic and loose, not adhering to the skull. A 
tree grown in the open is strong rooted and is 



4 

» 3' 

P 71? 



I g 



s 5 
?3 




m 



12 3 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

seldom upturned, while one in the dense forest soon 
perishes when this protection is removed, t A 
woman's hair is so exercised in dressing, and the 
pulling keeps the scalp loose, as a man's cannot be, 
and so there is with them more of health and vigor 
in the hair and scalp. It is believed if women were 
to cut their hair as many men do, and were to wear 
tight fitting head coverings, as men do, in a short 
time as many would become bald as there are of 
men. f . 

Women also have an advantage, as the head is 
exposed to the air and so the skin is kept more 
healthy and vigorous. 

Men should wear light hats, and as little as pos- 
sible, changing their position frequently when out, 
so as to relieve the pressure and admit the airland 
if the hair seems weak do not cut it close, as is so 
often done, but let it grow longer and pull it daily, 
so as to strengthen the roots and invigorate the 
scalp. The hair that comes out in this way will be 
shed any way, and the sooner it is out the better for 
the new hair that will take its place. 

To promote a healthy condition of the hair, pre- 
venting baldness and premature grayness, it is seen 
to be necessary to preserve a good circulation of the 
life forces of the hair and call for their use and as- 
similation. For this nothing is equal to massage, 
which is as healthful here as for other parts of the 
body. For the very best results one of Dr. For- 
est's "Scalp Massage Rollers" should be used. The 
Rollers, or wheels, which turn separately, are cov- 
ered with an elastic rubber band or tire, and with 




Sweat-Qlandf 



A.NATOMY OF THE SKIN. 
A Magnified Section, showing the Hair and how it is Nourished 



WOMANLY BEAUTY. 



it there is an even alternating pressure brought to 
bear on every part of the scalp and the circulation 
is exhilarated through it down to the very skull it- 
self. The blood, with its lifegiving power, is 
brought to the part and the skin and hair are fed 
with that which is needed. In using the Scalp 
Massage Roller, if the head is bald or the hair is 
very short, bathe the scalp in cold water, rubbing 
so as to bring the blood to the surface, drying with 
a coarse towel, then roll thoroughly and firmly in 
every direction, reaching all parts of the head and 
down over the neck, finishing with a downward 
movement to empty the veins if too much blood 
uuy have been drawn to them, otherwise there 
might be a tendency to headache following the 
treatment. Ladies and men whose hair is not very 
short should put a towel or large handkerchief over 
the head to prevent the hair becoming tangled in 
the rollers. The treatment should be continued 
daily from five to ten minutes, or until there is a 
thorough circulation of the blood established. 

Dr. E. W. Brook, of Philadelphia, says of the 
massage treatment:— "It promotes hair growth, 
excites the action of the hair cells and prevents ab- 
sorption of the fatty and muscular layers forming 
the scalp and arrests atrophy of the hair bulbs, 
and, by increasing the circulation, prevents the hair 
from turning gray." 

The following bears valuabh evidence as to its 
value in the treatment of the scalp and hair: 

Gentlemen.— It may interest you to know that I have .used 
Dr. Forest's Scalp Massage Roller in my practice, and find it 




MASSAGE OF THE) SCAI^P. 



126 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

a valuable aid in re-establishing blood circulation in the ca- 
pillaris of the scalp. It is of great benefit in general debil- 
ity and deficient nutrition, or where there is a tendency to 
hair loss. It never tires and never wears out. Mine has 
been used daily for some time, and seems none the worse for 
W ear. J- J. KROM, Scalp and Hair Specialist. 

Atlanta, Ga. 

Madame Van Poole, who has made a study of the 
care of the hair, says: 

Whatever treatment or application is adopted for the 
cultivation of the hair, its effects will be limited unless the 
scalp be prepared by properly cleansing it, and massaging 
to bring the blood into a more active circulation. Poor 
hair is starved hair; it should be fed by arousing the circu- 
lation. In my practice I use and advise Dr. forest's Scalp 
Massage Boiler for this purpose. ELLA VAJN PUUl^. 

When the general circulation is poor the roller 
treatment may be extended over the arms and 
also over the entire body to good advantage. 
Of course the scalp should be kept clean by 
bathing as often as it is necessary, using a 
good soap, with tepid or warm water, rinsing thor- 
oughly with cool or cold water, drying the sca^ 
and hair, after which the Ivlassage Roller should be 
used. The use of the Roller will afford relief for 
neuralgia and nervous headache and should be .a 
part of every toilet outfit as much as combs and 
brushes, 






Bust Development 

If we consider the subject of physical beauty in 
woman, that of curve or contour of form is, per- 
haps, the most distinctive feature Since Aryan 
civilization much importance has been attached to 
this peculiarity of sex feature. 

Aro.cn g' the Greeks and Romans well propor- 
tioned and well rounded bodies were the rule, and 
as a means to an end — their habits and general 
practice of exercise and deep breathing-, together 
with recognition of the importance of physical cul- 
tivation, might well be imitated. 

Wherever we find much outdoor living there we 
find little need of more bust development in 
women. The peasant who labors in the fields, born 
and reared with no idea of any ultimate position 
in life but that of motherhood, is generally en- 
dowed in this respect, while her sister — woman of 
ease, spending her growing years in school rooms 
and fashionable society, is often lacking in this 
most perfect sign of perfect womanhood. Health 
of the body, generally, is the best groundwork for 
development of this part of the physique. The 
prime cause of non-development in the early years 
of maturity is some derangement of function. The 



128 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

nerves controlling the mammary glands Claim the 
same centre as those of the pelvic organs. Weak- 
ness of nerves or muscle in one is indicative oi the 
same in the other. The strength or health of the 
pelvic organs during the years of approaching 
womanhood give their sign in good development 
of bust. Another cause for this seeming economy 
of nature, is a habit some mothers of girls have of 
making their clothing tight over the bust. Seme 
do this through carelessness, or indifference, but 
many do so to conceal a too pronounced figure 
while a girl is still in short dresses. Could they but 
know the harm this does; not in arresting develop- 
ment alone, but in its pressure upon the very sen- 
sitive nerves so potent in woman's health, there 
would be a great change in the dressing of many. 
There should be absolute freedom in a growing 
girl ? s dress, and especially through the chest, bust 
and lower lungs to insure a good normal figure and 
promote healthful womanhood. 

To those who would remedy this lack of propor- 
tion we will offer the best system ever found. J'he 
day of secrecy regarding remedies is en the wane. 
Common sense demands the why and wherefore 
of any claim of restorative power. The woman 
who as a result of nursing her child, or from im- 
proper care and neglect, would develop this qual- 
ity known as bust measure, may do so by following 
these suggestions, for at least three months: — 

Be sure that the digestive organs are in good 
working order— that the bowels move every day. 




Massage for Bust Development. 



129 



130 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

Do not try to secure this by taking drugs, but by 
a proper regulation of your diet and the use of 
massage. Then take this exercise which moves 
the entire body about the hips. Every morning 
upon rising raise the arms slowly above the head' 
until the fingers touch. Drop them as slowly. Re- 
peat this twenty times. Stand at an open window 1 
and take twenty long breaths. Raise the chest 
and always keep a proper poise of body, whether 
sitting or standing. . 

At night before retiring bathe the breasts lightly 
with cold water, dry carefully with a soft towel, 
and over a loose sack or undervest roll with Dr. 
Forest's. Bust Developer from underneath upwards 
and from the side forward, always toward the cen- 
tre, throwing the chest well out while doing this; 
do not do it carelessly or indifferently, but keep 
your mind on it and feel that yc&fare accomplish- 
ing your desire. When the breasts have become 
warm and in a glow, bathe in warm water arid rub 
in thoroughly the Health Culture Skin Fcod, which 
is absolutely pure, containing no animal fats, and 
the best Bust Food made. This will be absorbed and 
feed the tissues. In the morning on rising repeat 
the -rolling treatment, but omit the warm bathing 
and the Skin Food. Do this faithfully and care- 
fully and improvement will show itself in a week 
or ten days. The Dr. Forrest Bust Developer used 
regularlv and systematically is the greatest assist- 
ant obtainable in this work. Its action arouses the 
blood vessels which are dormant, and stimulates 



BtTST DEVELOPMENT. 131 

circulation, and where blood abounds life will 
abound. The warm pulsating currents of blood will 
feed and fill the tissues, and plump contour is the 
result. Then discard tight undergarments, do not 
wear the tight fitting undervests, do not wear pads 
that heat and press down the breasts, insist upon 
a loose lining in gowns over the bust, and abandon 
the senseless thing called a "corset cover," which 
has ruined more forms of women than any other 
article of dress and has clone no good. These di- 
rections, intelligently understood and applied, 
will surely result in development and increase of 
the bust measurement. 

In some cases other parts of the body may be 
well developed, but the breasts thin. This treat- 
ment, which is physiological and hygienic, will 
overcome this, by attracting the nutrition where it 
is needed and so restore and build up these parts. 
Remember, this is not something to be "taken," 
which never succeeds, but something to be done, 
and in doing it disappointment will not follow. 



Care of the Rands and the feet. 

BY STELLA STUART. 

Hands show the ravages of time and ill usage 
quite as much as the face. Between sixteen and 
twenty years of age they manifest their greatest 
beauty of texture, color and contour. For a few 
years no perceptible change occurs. After thirty, 
however, the tissues incline to become attenuated 
and, unless special care is given them, their beauty 
wanes. In these days of physical rejuvenescence, 
no disparity in the appearance of the face and hands 
should be permitted. Exclaimed Patti, "I have a 
young face, but old hands!" The hands are amen- 
able to similar methods of treatment as the face, 
and should receive equal care. 

Red Hands- — -Any article of apparel which im- 
pedes circulation, such as tight corsets, close 
sleeves or small gloves, will distend the veins of the 
hand and give them a red and puffy appearance. 
The cause should first be removed. If this does not 
remedy the difficulty, hold the hands up as often 
as possible, instead of allowing them to hang down, 
and treat them with a "massage roller" gently 
over the engorged veins upward toward the elbow. 

How to Wash the Hands — All hands connot 
be artistically beautiful, but a well kept hand, what- 



134 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

ever its size or shape, possesses undeniable attrac- 
tiveness. 

Imperfect rinsing and careless drying upon a 
harsh, unabsorbent towel are frequent causes of 
roughness and chapping, especially in cold weather. 
Before washing remove all stains with lemon juice 
or a bit of pumice stone. Wash in warm water, 
using a pure, non-irritating soap, and a broad, soft 
nail brush to thoroughly cleanse the pores of accu- 
mulated dust. Rinse in tepid water and again in 
cooler water and dry thoroughly upon a soft towel. 
Now apply freely "Sofhanda Cream," and rub the 
hands together, one oyer the other, for several 
minutes, until it is thoroughly absorbed. This 
will keep the hands soft, white and flexible in spite 
of domestic duties. The secret of well-kept hands 
is not idleness, but thorough washing, careful dry- 
ing and frequent inunctions with some good emol- 
lient like Sofhanda Cream. 

To Exercise the Hands. — The hands grow stiff 
and ungainly, like any other part of the body, with- 
out exercise. How quickly the fingers of the pian- 
ist lose their suppleness if daily piano practice is 
suspended for a while. As age creeps on. the hands 
become unfitted fcr delicate tasks unless flexibility 
of the muscles is preserved. 

Dr. Forest's massage roller is an invaluable 
ally in retaining manual dexterity. It should 
be rolled crosswise over the fingers and backs of 
the hands until they are warm and in a glow. The 
quickened circulation will stimulate and feed the 



CARE OP THE FEET. B5 

tissues -which coyer the bones and tend to retain 
the beauty, contour and suppleness of the hands in- 
definitely. Sofhanda Cream used, as an . emollient 
after the roller treatment will show most gratifying 
results. 

THE "FEET. 

The foot.is the foundation of the entire body. If 
this substructure is cramped, distorted, weak and 
insecure, how can the superstructure maintain 
equilibrium? A noble, graceful yearriage is almost 
impossible with the conventional modern shoe. Or- 
dinary footgear is modelled with' a total disregard 
of anatomical outlines, and the soft, tortured flesh 
is made to conform to these rigid, artificial lines. 

In the natural foot the great toe is emite sepa- 
rated from the others. A straight line drawn from 
the centre of the heel should pass'idirectly through 
the middle of, the large toe. Crowded and over- 
lapped by the false curve imparted to the inner line 
of the foot by improperly constructed shoes, the 
great toe deflects far from nature's, line, the joint 
is thrown out of place and permanent disfigurement 
and often a painful bunion is the result. An artist 
will tell you that a womanVperiect foot is indeed 
a rara avis. It is said that when the peacock 
catches sight of his. ugly feet, abashed he drops his 
gorgeous tail. That brilliant fowl is not the only 
biped that fails to take pleasure in gazing at his 
pedal extremities. Gauged bv our vaunted civiliza- 
tion,; we are not so very far behind the Chinese in 
foot compression, 




J{ Prize Toot 

Frjm a photograph of the foot of Miss Carrie A. Ellis, who took 
the prize of a pair of gem- studded " I'rilby" slippers, and the 
judges examined the feet of U0-*u,men before they awarded it. 



WOMANLY BEAUTY. 



The Anatomy of the Foot.— The human foot is 
most delicately and beautifully constructed, and is 
far removed from the distorted, calloused and un- 
attractive object man's ignorance and stupidity 
have evolved. The twenty-six bones of the foot 
are peculiarly adapted to give elasticity and light- 
ness in walking by the manner in which they ar- 
ticulate with each other. The arch of the foot is a 
wonderful piece of construction when we take into 
consideration the weight it supports. The elastic- 
ity of the ball of the foot is intended to aid in sup- 
port of the body and also to prevent a jar to the 
spine when leaping or running. 

In a well poised body a line drawn from the mid- 
dle of the top of the head should pass through the 
ball of the foot. In a narrow shoe the weight cari- 
not be thrown forward without pain or, at least, 
discomfort, and a womanls forced to walk flat foot- 
ed to ease her cramped toes, coming down upon her 
heels with a jar at every step, as inelegant as it is 
unhvgienic. 

The Foot Bath.— The night foot bath is both 
salutarv and soothing. The largest pores of the 
body are in the soles of the feet, and while it may 
not be generallv known, it is an absolute fact that 
well kept feet are potent aids to a clear complexion, j 

Rest the feet in quite warm water, in which com- ' 
mon soda has been dissolved, for five or ten min- 
utes. Rinse in cooler water and dry them with 
brisk friction upon a soft towel. Anoint with 
Sofhanda Cream and rub it well into every part of 



CARE OF THE FEET. 139 

them. This will relieve the tired, burning sen- 
sation consequent upon shoe pressure and soften 
calloused spots, as well as greatly relieve, if not per- 
manently cure, corns and bunions. Distorted great 
toe joints are the outcome of too short shoes. 
Hold the joint in place and rub gently with Sof- 
handa Cream. Wear a bit of cotton or a piece of 
feltj between the large toe and the next, and shun 
narrow toed shoes. 

Foot Massage. — For tired, aching, cramped 
feel for cold extremities, or all pedal ills in fact, 
massage is the sovereign remedy. An expensive 
masseuse is unnecessary. Dr. Forest's roller is 
effective in any hands and should invariably fol- 
low the nightly foot bath. Roll downward toward 
the' toes, over the instep and sides of the feet and 
crosswise upon the sole. The roller treatment 
should precede the anointing with Sofhanda Cream. 
No treatment devised can rest aching feet, quiet 
irritable nerves and overcome insomnia more 
quickly than this simple, nightly course which con- 
sumes so few minutes and brings such large re- 
wards of rest, refreshment and vigor for the com- 
ing day. 




140 



exercising for Grace ana Poise. 

The woman with a symmetrical, well formed 
body, with fine classical features, clear complexion, 
bright eyes, good hair, well formed hands and feet 
will still be wanting in a great essential if she has 
not grace and suppleness in poise and movements, 
whether walking, working, dancing or even sitting 
still; this means more than is often supposed and is 
a feature that has been much neglected by many. 
To secure this there must be not only strength but 
elasticity of muscle by which the body will be 
brought into and kept in proper position as related 
to itself. Nearly every one while standing will lean 
against a table, chair or wall if there is a chance to 
do so or will stand mostly on one foot and "all let 
down" as it were,and when sitting will slide forward 
in the seat and lean with the shoulders against the 
back of the chair or all doubled down in a heap, 
cramping the internal organs, the heart, liver, 
lungs, &c, until the whole system is out of joint, 
as it were, and becoming more and more flabby. Of 
course there must be correct poise or carriage of 
the body, which must not be allowed to assume im- 
proper positions, becoming "lopped over," as it 
were, in any way, but must be kept erect, whether 
standing or sitting, never assuming an attitude that 
is not graceful. The breathing must be proper, 
the system must be well nourished that there may 
be the basis for strength, and when all this is done 




For Developing the Chest and Back. 



142 




For Strengthening the Muscles of the Trunk. 



144 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

there must be exercise of the right kind; walking 
and working are good in their way, but not enough, 
for not nearly all the muscles are brought into pray. 
By exercise we do not mean the developing of 
biceps and big muscles, but that which gives sup- 
pleness, strength and symmetry to every muscle; 
especially must there be strength in muscles of the 
trunk, the waist, the abdomen and the back, giving 
power to hold the body in poise. For this much 
can be done by what are known as the Delsarte 
Movements without apparatus and by bending and 
twisting the body, but it is found that some simple 
apparatus is very useful, and the Home Exerciser 
is to be recommended. This has no weights and oc- 
cupies no room; it is attached to the window or 
floor casing and out of sight, and is not only useful, 
but it offers something to work with and so is an 
incentive to take up the. exercises at stated times. 
The illustrations show only two of many forms of 
exercise that can and should be taken with this ap- 
paratus. The first is admirable for developing the 
lungs and filling out the chest as well as strengthen- 
ingthe muscles of the arms and the back, the sec- 
ond shows a form of exercise for strengthening the 
muscles of the trunk, which gives power to bend and 
to sit or stand erectly, and if there is a tendency to 
become stout will reduce the waist and abdominal 
fulness, and also develop the limbs. All the exer- 
cises should be taken with spirit and life and not 
in a mechanical way; put your mind into it and you 
will derive the greatest amount of benefit from it. 



mechanical Aids to normal Breathing, 

By W. R. C. Latson, M. D. 
Diagrams especially prepared for this paper by the author. 

In an ancient symbol the vital functions are rep- 
resented by a snake with its tail in its mouth, indi- 
cating that the process of life is an unbroken cycle, 
each function depending upon the others. Modern 
science confirms this view, and proves that to in- 
terfere, with one function it to embarrass all — to 
invigorate one is to accelerate all. 

And yet, while no one function can be regarded 
as beginning the cycle of physiological activities, it 
would seem that, for many reasons, respiration 
should be considered the first. 

The importance of the breathing has been rec- 
ognized in all ages. In many religious systems the 
breathing occupies first place as a means of train- 
ing in self control and abstraction and as a ceremo- 
nial. In the book of Genesis the Jahvist represents 
God as breathing into insensate man the breath of 
life, "and man became a living soul.'' In the He- 
brew language the aspirate Ha is one of the names 
of deity, in fact, a part of the name of the Hebrew 
God,. Jehovah. It is related that, when God 
changed the names of Abram and Sarai as a mark 
of his favor, He added to those names the sacred 



146 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

sound Ha, making the names Abraham and Sarah. 
Among the Hindoos prana, or the breath, is the 
principal primary method of attaining concentra- 
tion and poise. The sacred word Om (pronounced 
ah-oo-m) is simply a breathing exercise, inducing 
a peculiarly harmonious action of the vocal and 
respiratory muscles. The long, deep breath (prana 
nyama) of the Hindoo mystics requires exquisite 
muscular control, and so develops self command 
and concentration. 

Among certain savage tribes the salutation of 
respect consists in exhaling gently through the 
open mouth upon the forehead of the person sa- 
luted. In many languages the words for God, for 
life and for breath are identical or show a common 
origin. 

So among the more intelligent peoples of all 
ages has the importance of the breathing function 
been recognized. Modern civilization alone ig- 
nores it. Modern civilization alone impedes and 
strangles this most important function by corsets 
and belts, by tight neckwear and coat collars, t>y 
breathing poisonous air and by sedentary and in- 
dolent indoor lives. 

But the man who realizes the importance of 
deep, full breathing — who once acquires the habit 
of using a large area of his lungs m ordinary res- 
piration — has entered into a new life of power and 
repose. The woman who has learned tnat the 
most impo-t-tflnt r>/*t of Vr We. is o^>e that c h^ ner- 
haps has r»w»r thnno-bt nlvwt — her breathing — 
the woman who .realizes this has found the key to 



MECHANICAL AIDS TO 'NORMAL BREATHING. 147 

power. Her personality, mental and physical, 
gradually changes. The skin becomes clearer, the 
eyes brighten and the face regains lost contours. 
The carriage of the body acquires erectness and 
force, and the voice gains a new power and com- 
pass. Gradually weakness gives place to vitality. 
What were formerly severe tasks become pleasur- 
able exercises. So, simply by breathing may the 
weak woman often become strong, healthy and 
beautiful. Through that strength and beauty she 
enters into her kingdom — woman's kingdom, 
where, as friend, sweetheart, wife, mother, she 
reigns in serene majesty and infinite power. 

Without food a man will live for forty, fifty, six- 
ty days, or even longer. Without air he dies in a 
few minutes. The action of the heart, stomach, 
liver, kidneys and of most other organs are beyond 
the direct control of the individual. The breath- 
ing, however, although usually unconscious, be- 
ing presided over by the sympathetic nervous sys- 
tem, may at any moment be made voluntary. Of 
all the vital functions, it is the one most largely 
under conscious control — the one most readily 
trained. 

Very few people breathe properly. In an exami- 
nation of several thousand cases the writer found 
less than one per cent of men and women who 
made proper use of their lungs. It may be noted 
in passing, that each of those found with normal 
respiration was remarkable for power in some par- 
ticular line. Two of the men and two of the wo- 



118 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

men found to be normal are famous vocalists. Two 
of the men were successful business men self raised 
from early poverty. One of the men was a burly 
negro, possessed of the figure and the strength of 
a Hercules. Another of the men is the greatest 
prize fighter that this Country has produced. 

As a rule of general application it may be stated 
that the capacity of the chest is an index to the 
mental and physical powers of the individual. The 
greatest men of all times and countries — the Napo- 
leons, the Luthers, the Cromwells, the Daniel Web- 
sters — have been large chested, deep breathing 
men. The writer knows of no exception to the 
rule that the individual who breathes normally is a 
man or woman of power. 

But normal breathing is rare — very rare. Why 
is this so? In the first place, it is so only among 
civilized men and women whose clothing and whose 
habits render the normal breathing movements 
impossible. In natural breathing the spine is 
straight, the body is held erect, and the entire trunk 
(chest, back and abdominal walls) expands with the 
inhalation and contracts when the air is expelled. 

With ordinary clothing, howover, this action is 
impossible. In the case of a man the wearing of 
a tight collar on shirt or coat and the tightly but- 
toned waistcoat draws the head forward, contracts 
and depresses the chest and rounds out the back. 
The chest in this position is unable to expand and 
only the lower or "abdominal" brepth can be taken. 
Among women, on the other hand, the wearing of 



MECHANICAL AIDS TO NORMAL r.REATHING. 149 

tight belts, corsets and skirt bands about the waist 
renders expansion in that region impossible. 
Providentially, however, the dressmakers allow 
some little freedom of the clothing over the chest 
and the unfortunate woman (complacent martyr to 
the modern Moloch) can breathe only by a fatigu- 
ing and unsightly expansion of the upper ribs, 
known as the "clavicular" breath. The clavicular 
breathing has been said to be the distinctive res- 
piratory action of women, even as the abdominal 
has been claimed to be normal for men. As a mat- 
ter of fact, this conclusion has been based upon 
the examination of men and women who, bound 
and constricted by their clothes, breathed as their 
clothes permitted them. For in these days of en- 
lightenment and culture — of freedom and individ- 
uality — civilized men and women are content to be 
the insensate appendages of their clothes — to move 
and to breathe as their clothes permit. 

Breathing is the most important act of our 
lives. To one who realizes this — who appreciates 
that proper breathing means health and power — 
the questions come: — "Can I learn to breathe nor- 
mally?" "And how?'' 

Normal breathing can be learned by proper 
methods. The great difficulty is that the unused 
muscles are weakened by disuse and perhaps by 
pressure (as when a corset or tight belt has been 
worn), and sometimes these muscles are slow in 
acquiring normal development. Under these cir- 
cumstances any exercise which will localize the ef- 



150 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

fort in those unused regions will expedite the ac- 
quisition of the normal breathing action. 

The writer does not as a rule prescribe mechani- 
cal aids to physical development. But the few ex- 
ercises given herewith have proven so remarkably 
effective in the teaching of full breathing that a 
brief outline of them is given with illustrative dia- 
grams. The necessary apparatus consists of a 
large book weighing between three and five 
pounds and a little instrument known as a breath- 
ing tube. The breathing tube or exhaler is a small 
cylinder of ivory, wood or rubber; which is placed 
between the lips and through which the air inhaled 
is expelled with more or less force. In a properly 
constructed breathing tube it is possible to regu- 
late the resistance to the expelled breath. This is 
a decided advantage, indeed a necessity to its prop- 
er use. There are several instruments of this kind 
on the market. The best known to the writer is 
the Wilhide Exhaler. In the Wilhide Exhaler the 
exhaust is regulated by a simple device doing away 
with valve and other complicated mechanisms. 

The advantages of the breathing tube properly 
used are manifold. First of all, through the resist- 
ance presented to the escaping stream of air, the 
muscles of respiration are gently exercised and the 
normal breathing movements encouraged. Fur- 
thermore, the pressure exerted upon the stream of 
exhaled air forces the air contained in the lungs 
into the ultimate lobules distending them and ac- 
celerating a change of the residual air contained in 



MECHANICAL AIDS TO NORMAL BREATHING. 151 

them. As a means of strengthening the lungs, of 
adding to the power and compass of the voice, of 
increasing the power to resist contagion, especially 
of pulmonary diseases, such as tuberculosis — in 
short, of augmenting the strength, endurance and 
1 ~alth of the user — the breathing tube, in develop- 
ing the lungs, gives results probably not to be at- 
tained through any other mechanical device known 
to physical culture. It is a pocket gymnasium. 

Not the least important of the benefits resulting 
from its use is the general stimulation of the vital 
functions, digestion, circulation, heart action and 
other activities resulting from the muscular ex- 
ertion involved. 

Five minutes' use of a breathing tube will often 
effectually remove symptoms of coryza or com- 
mon cold, sick headache, dizziness or "that tired 
feeling." In these cases relief is afforded through 
the increased elimination secured by the greater 
activity of the lungs. 

EXERCISE I. 

Having removed or loosened all tight clothing, 
lie down flat upon the back, either without pillow 
or with one extending under both head and shoul- 
ders. (See Fig. i.) Place upon the abdomen a 
book or other object weighing three to five pounds. 
Now, relax all the muscles, and inhale through the 
nose very gently and slowly, carefully avoiding any 
muscular tension. If relaxation is preserved you 
will notice that during the inhalation the abdomi- 
nal region expands, raising the book. Make no at- 



152 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

tempt to hold the breath, but exhale immediately 
through the nose; and note that, as the air escapes, 
the abdomen retracts under the weight of the book. 
For some people this movement will prove difficult 
at first. By perseverance, however, and the avoid- 
ance of muscular tension the muscles will in time 
learn to act, and free and deep breathing will be 
the result. 

EXERCISE ii. 

Having as before relieved the body of all re- 
straining clothing, lie upon the back with the hands 
resting easily upon the abdomen. Now, avoiding 
any muscular contraction, take a full, gentle in- 
halation through the nose, and note by the hands 
on the abdomen that the inhaled breath expands 
first the lower part of the trunk or abdominal 
region and aterwards the chest. In exhaling, on 
the contrary, first the chest and then the abdominal 
region will collapse as the air leaves the lungs. 
(See Fig. 2.) 

EXERCISE III. 

With the body free as before, lie on the back 
upon a flat surface or with head slightly raised, 
hands resting lightly upon the abdomen. Remove 
both caps from the breathing tube and take same 
between the lips. Now, preserving muscular 
relaxation, inhale gently through the nose, allow- 
ing first the abdominal area and then the chest to 
expand to the inhaled air. When the lungs are com- 
fortably filled, exhale by blowing gently and stead- 
ily through the tube until the lungs are empty. 
(See Fig. 2.) 



K g .. 1. 




Fx*. ft. 




F Ja ,3 



153 



164 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

Be careful at first to avoid any force in this ex- 
pulsion. Gradually with practice, more and more 
force may be applied. If the Wilhide exhaler or 
breathing tube is used the cap may, after a week 
of practice, be so adjusted as to cause greater 
resistance to the expired air and greater force may 
be employed. 

r EXERCISE IV. 

Lying in the same position, hands on abdomen, 
take' breathing tube, both caps removed, between 
the teeth. Now, inhale through the tube in short, 
gentle sips, so that with each inhalation the abdo- 
men expands lifting up the hands. Continue this 
until the lungs are filled and then exhale by blow- 
ing gently and steadily through the tube. 

EXERCISE V. 

Stand erect, weight thrown forward, head back, 
chest lifted. Remove both caps from the Wil- 
hide exhaler and take same between the lips. 
Now, inhale gently and slowly through the nose, 
taking in all the air possible without strain. Note 
that first the abdomen and afterward the chest ex- 
pands to the inhaled air. After inhalation exhale 
immediately through the tube in a steady stream 
until lungs are empty. (See Fig. 4.) 

EXERCISE VI. 

Standing as for preceding exercise, take the 
Wilhide, both caps removed, and inhale through 
the tube in gentle sips, noting that with each effort 
the abdomen expands. When the lower part of 
lungs are filled, exhale in steady stream through 
the tube. 



V 



154 



156 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

The object of breathing is twofold. First, the 
introduction into the system of oixygen which, in 
reality is the most important food of the individual. 
Second, the elimination of the waste products car- 
ried to the lungs by the circulating blood. There- 
fore, the deeper the breathing the better. 

The practice of the exercises as given herewith 
will be found harmless to the most delicate and 
beneficial to the most robust. Their persevering 
practice will prove an unfailing method of learn- 
ing the movements of normal breathing. As re- 
gards frequency, if directions are strictly followed 
and no violent efforts are made, they can hardly 
be overdone. 

Five to ten minutes, two or three times a day 
might be well to begin, increasing the length of 
time and the force applied as the strength of the 
learner grows with practice. 



fiou> to Rave a Good Complexion. 

By Susanna W. Dodds, M. D. 

This is something that the American people have 
yet to. learn. Their habits of eating and drinking, 
not only as regards the quality of the food, but the 
manner of taking it, are not favorable to good 
looks. In fact, they are just the opposite, and but 
for our warm climate, which encourages cutaneous 
depuration (in summer, at least), the case would be 
far worse. The amount of fat pork, ham and saus- 
age; the fried dishes, hot with salt and pepper; the 
enormous amount of pickles, sweets and other con- 
diments; the milk, butter, eggs and cheese that 
are consumed, both at public restaurants and in our 
private homes, are a standing rebuke to our good 
judgment and good sense. We may indeed be 
thankful for the hot days and nights that come, 
which make us perspire freely; though the extra 
amount of labor imposed upon the skin and other 
depurators is altogether needless. 

Those who suffer most from heat are the ones 
who overtax these organs, either by eating too 
much, or by taking into the system substances that 
it cannot appropriate. Food that is highly sea- 
soned, or that is not required by the vital organism, 
tends to clog the skin and to render it unsightly. 



158 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

For example, an excess of fat in the food eaten will 
make it greasy and sodden looking. Add to this an 
extra amount of salt, pepper or other condiments, 
such as the caster affords, and the face will become 
pimply. Eating too many nuts in hot weather also 
produces pimples, boils, &c. 

It will be seen, therefore, that those who desire a 
good complexion will have to study the subject 
from a physiological standpoint. First, we must 
find out what the system really needs to replace the 
waste matter which is expelled from it daily. As 
a general thing, there is too much cramming done; 
and those who do not eat to excess take materials 
into the system which it cannot utilize. The ques- 
tion we should ask ourselves when we sit down 
at the table is not, "What would I like?" but, "How 
much food does my system require, and of what 
kind?" Until we are able and willing to ask this 
question and answer it honestly we shall grope in 
the dark in our efforts to discover the secret of a 
beautiful complexion. We must not expect the 
impossible from the living organism, even if we 
have the good fortune to be well born; which, alas! 
is not the lot of every one. 

We must apply science, as well as common sense, 
to those processes which are taking place daily in 
the vital economy. We apply it to everything else, 
why not to this?" If crude substances are taken 
into the blood they must either be deposited in the 
various tissues (the skin included), or they will 
have to be eliminated from the system through cu- 



HOW TO HAVE A GOOD COMPLEXION. 159 

taneoits and other depuration. This causes an extra 
expenditure of vital force, and often the individual 
is made sick. Not only so, the depurating organs 
will be unable to perform their functions properly, 
and in time they may break down. Even the skin, 
which is the safest and best depurator that we have, 
cannot stand everything. 

Let the reader take a walk on a fine afternoon 
either on Broadway or some other crowded street 
and note the number of persons he meets who have 
really good complexions. The per cent will not be 
large; and if he could read the history in each case 
he would find that those who possess fine com- 
plexions have very simple habits as regards eating 
and drinking. They do not impose too much work 
upon the skin. I once knew an individual, a gentle- 
man past middle life, whose skin was like velvet; 
soft and smooth in texture, as well as beautiful in 
color. In his dietetic and other habits he had for 
many years observed the utmost simplicity. He 
let the caster and its contents severely alone; he 
neither ate too much, nor of food the system could 
not appropriate. Nature's way is the plain way, so 
simple that a little child can understand it. 

I must not forget, however, that I am addressing 
those whose ways of living, in eating and otherwise, 
are not ideal; and the question is, how to make 
the best of existing conditions. If in these things 
it is not possible to attain an ideal standard, then 
let its approximate it as nearly as the environment 
will permit. When we cline at tables that are sup- 



160 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

plied with a variety of foods, we can not only select 
the least objectionable, but by exercising" a little 
self-denial stop eating before we surfeit the system. 
We can also refrain from active exercise immedi- 
ately after the meal, intense mental excitement, 
&c, which will interfere with good digestion. If 
the food is simple and the stomach not overloaded 
the nutritive elements will be more perfectly as- 
similated. The waste in the tissues can be replen- 
ished without causing a surfeit and rendering the 
blood impure. 

The skin to do its best work must be kept clean; 
not merely the face, but the whole surface of the 
body. Cleanliness as applied to the skin means 
something more than patchwork; every part of it 
should be properly cared for. If this is done the 
face will promptly reveal the fact. Many directions 
have been given for improving the complexion, but 
the ones that are most important are generally 
emitted. Has it ever occurred to us that the rea- 
son an infant (I speak of those who are well born 
and well cared for) has a smooth and beautiful skin 
is because its diet is simple, and taken in moderate 
quantity? But I have seen children, infants even, 
whose faces and heads were covered with boils. In 
these cases either the diet is at fault, or the child 
is kept too much indoors, and compelled to breathe 
an atmosphere laden with impurity. Pure air, pure 
water and pure food are essential to a good com- 
plexion; so are sunlight, plenty of good outdoor 
exercise and sleep. 



HOW TO HAVE A GOOD COMPLEXION". 181 

Those whose occupations compel them to live in 
an atmosphere that is filled with dust or other im- 
purities will have to devote extra attention to the 
skin, and especially to the face and hands, which 
are more exposed. A liberal amount of soap and 
water will be needed. Warm or hot water (soft) ap- 
plied with a cloth of rather coarse texture or a 
brush is best for removing dust and other impuri- 
ties; the soap, too, should be of good quality. If 
hot water is employed, it should be followed with 
cool or cold. The habitual use of hot water has a 
tendency to relax and if applied to the face the 
eyes may become weakened. Most of the lotions, 
cosmetics, &c, that are recommended for the face 
are either worthless or positively injurious. Where 
the skin is inclined to chap or chafe, a starch powder 
may be used. Sweet cream or some other simple, 
pure skin food is also good. 

The presence of wrinkles in the face, about which 
so much has been written, might to a great extent 
be avoided if only the causes that produce them 
were understood. The habitual use of strong tea 
has made many wrinkles, owing to the amount of 
tannin that it contains. Moreover, through its ef- 
fect on the nervous system the general health suf- 
fers, and with it the complexion. It has repeatedly 
been pointed out by writers upon this subject that 
a cheerful disposition has much to do, not only in 
keeping us well, but in preventing that careworn 
appearance which is so common. 




MODEL ON HORSEBACK. 
162 



Bicycling ana Beauty. 

By Mary Sargent Hopkins. 

Health and Beauty Culture never had a more 
helpful coadjutor than is to be found in the Wheel. 

Rightly used — not abused — it will do more than 
any other one thing, in aiding an ailing, delicate 
woman to gain strength and in keeping her well 
when she has gained her health. 

The face and figure are such telltales that to be 
really beautiful one must be well and happy. The 
story of nervous days and sleepless nights writes it- 
self all too plainly upon the haggard face and 
wasted form. 

One of the reasons why the wheel is such a potent 
factor in gaining and keeping health is because of 
its coaxing powers in keeping a woman out of doors 
and in motion. 

There is a fascination in the ever changing scene, 
in the rapidity with which one moves, and an exhil- 
aration which comes in a greater 'degree than in 
any other mode of locomotion — horseback riding, 
perhaps, excepted. 

When the bicycle was first offered to women thev 
were afraid of it. It seemed so daring to> mount 
and control such an apparently unstable piece of 



m WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

mechanism. But now thousands stand ready to 
attest its efficacy in restoring them to health. 

The wheel stimulates the circulation and regu- 
lates the action of the bowels, thus driving away 
headache, and as a cure for insomnia it stands un- 
equalled. 

In every motion which the rider makes the mus- 
cles are brought into play and gently exercised. 
With head and shoulders erect, those of the chest 
and arms are given a chance, while the pedal motion 
gives ample play to those of the legs. 

It is difficult to induce the home woman to go out 
and take sufficient exercise in the open air. She will 
always find some excuse for putting it oft until to- 
morrow. If she goes out she will not stay long 
enough to do much good, unless she has some ob- 
ject in view. She must have something to divert 
her mind to insure any degree of enthusiasm. This 
she can find in riding a wheel. 

In a letter written to me by Frances Willard 
some years ago, commending the missionarv work 
I was doing at that time in trying to induce women 
to ride, she calls the wheel a "physical evangel to 
women." And so it has proved to many. 

The wheel stands to-day the greatest emanci- 
pator for women extant — women who long to be 
free from nervousness, headache and a train of other 
ills. 

It has emerged triumphant from the contumely 
and derision which greeted its first appearance, and 
has won its way even among the most conservative 
women. 



BICYCLING AND BEAUTY; 165 

But, like all other good things, the wheel can be 
abused, the abuse bringing about the most deplora- 
ble results. 

The woman who overdoes in riding too fast or 
too far, will not long be an enthusiast, and will de- 
rive from it neither benefit nor comfort. 

One of the most important things to impress 
upon a rider's mind is the proper adjustment of the 
wheel; especially is this true in regard to handlebar 
and saddle. The former should be within easy reach, 
thereby obviating the stoop. This unhealthful and 
ungraceful position cannot be too strongly con- 
demned. It is most injurious, as it gives the lungs 
no chance for expansion and is apt to lead to a per- 
manent stooping of the shoulders. Its ill effects 
upon the young person cannot be overestimated. 
If persisted in it may result in utter destruction to 
health and beauty. 

The comparative positions of a woman riding a 
bicycle, a horse and sitting at a sewing machine 
are shown by the outline figures illustrating this 
chapter. 

These pictures were made under the direction of 
Dr. Dickinson, the eminent medical expert of 
Brooklyn, N.Y ., and are absolutely correct. They 
are not imaginary sketches, but were taken from 
photographs of living models. By showing the un- 
draped figure the radical differences in position are 
shown. It has been claimed by some who knew 
nothing of the subject, that the motion made in 
running a machine and riding a bicycle were the 
same, and that both were equally harmful. 



^f\ 








MODEt AT A SEWING MCHINE. 
Iff 



168 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

A glance at these illustrations will show the ab- 
surdity of this claim. 

The attitude of the figure upon the wheel is up- 
right and graceful, showing the freedom of motion 
imparted to the whole body when properly 
mounted. 

It is preferable even to the position of the figure 
upon horseback, which is more or less cramped, 
'l lie body not being evenly balanced is therefore 
liable to a one-sided development. 

In the case of the sewing machine the body is 
bent and a strain comes upon the back. With the 
endless motions of the treadle, the tiresome up and 
down heel and toe motion of the foot, working from 
the ankle there is no freedom of movement, as in 
wheeling, where the foot describes a flowing, easy 
circle. 

There are swaying, graceful curvings made by 
the cyclist of which she is unconscious, so< easily 
and smoothly does she glide along. There are little 
turnings and lurchings as she and her wheel lend 
themselves to changes of direction and inequalities 
of the road that not only serve in presenting a 
picture of grace, but assist in exercising unused 
muscles. 

The clear, pure air expands the lungs, the cheeks 
glow, the eyes brighten and new life creeps through 
every vein. 

Care, however, should be given to the when, the 
how and the where to ride. Scorching over a 
gunny road on a hot summer dav, with no idea of 



BICYCLING AND BEAUTY. ■ 169 

anything but to "get there" can never result in 
good to the rider, but is sure to excite a feeling of 
disgust and pity in the beholder. No sorrier sight 
ever pained a beauty loving eye than that of a 
woman humped over the handlebar, dressed in 
some nondescript way, with blowsy face and flying 
hair, tearing over the ground as if her salvation lay 
at the other end c i the route, and that she was sev- 
eral hours behind time in her race for it. 

From this unpleasant picture let us turn to one 
more pleasing, and which may be studied with 
profit by the woman who wishes to make the most 
of her opportunities for being beautiful. 

The wheel is in perfect order, clean and shining, 
so that only a minimum of strength will be required 
to propel it. The saddle is adjusted so that it is per- 
fectly easy, and does not press unduly upon any 
part. It is placed far enough back to allow of an 
easy grasp of the handlebar and high enough so 
that when the pedal is at its lowest point the leg is 
straight, but not so high as to allow of any percepti- 
ble motion of the hips when pedalling. 

The rider's dress is neat and ladylike in every de- 
tail, from the soft woollen union undergarment and 
easy fitting equipoise waist to the neat hat, sans 
fluttering ribbons, feathers and flowers. Her habit 
is tailor made, of dark heavy cloth, severely plain as 
to cut and finish. In warm weather her jacket 
is strapped upon the handlebar, to be put on over 
the shirt waist — for our beauty seeker has no notion 
of taking cold — when she dismounts for a rest by 



170 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

the way or to enjoy a beautiful bit of nature paint- 
ing. Her stockings match her habit in color, which 
is short as to skirt, and her shoes and gloves are 
neat, sensible and easy fitting. She does not dis- 
dain a veil, especially when the wind blows, but her 
jewelry is left at home with her laces. 

She mounts with dignity and rides easily, dis- 
mounting when a hill is too steep to climb with case 
and without undue flushing and accelerated heart 
beatings. With her brake well in hand (no woman 
should ride without a brake) she coasts leisurely 
down the hills. She does not consult her cyclom- 
eter too often, but she remembers that only half her 
ride is over when she turns homeward, and governs 
herself accordingly. Arriving there, she enjoys a 
bath, from which she emerges, perhaps not exactly 
like Venus arising from the sea, but at least with a 
pleasant, liealthy glow from head to foot and an 
appetite which does not carp at any wholesome 

f( M id. 

The morning is the best time for riding, as every- 
thing seems sweeter when the day is new. but any 
time is better than no time, but one's clothing and 
duration of ride should 1>e adapted to conditions. 

One should never ride beyond the verge of fa- 
tigue — a tired face and drooping figure are not 
beautiful. 

Taken in conjunction with proper food, sleep 
and dress, indulged in at the right time, and not 
overdone, wheeling stands preeminent as a culti- 
vator of face, form and soul. 






exercise— mho Heeds Tt. Cbe Benefits— Sow to 
Cake Tt. 

By Edward B. Warmann. 
THE HOUSEWIFE. 

Who does not need it? That is the question. The 
housewife thinks she gets enough work in her daily- 
duties; so she does, but as they are purely auto- 
matic they do not furnish the results to be obtained 
from a regular, systematic course of physical ex- 
ercise. 

THE BUSINESS WOMAN. 

Too busy? You have but to take your choice 
between fifteen minutes a day now or fifteen weeks 
or months by and by. Which? 

The body needs exercise just as much as it needs 
food, and should have it with about the same regu- 
larity. 

THE CLERK. 

More activity, more health, more usefulness. 
These follow proper, regular exercise as surely as 
the night, the day. With this combination you 
can unlock the door to success. 

THE BICYCLIST. 

Need other exercise than that which the wheel 



172 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

gives? Surely. Excellent as it is in developing the 
leg muscles, increasing lung capacity, aiding circu- 
lation and purifying the blood, the bicyclist will 
find that he is obtaining this necessary development 
at the expense of other portions of the body; hence 
an uneven and undesirable development. 

THE TEACHER. 

Too tired when night comes? Why, bless your 
heart! there is nothing in the world that will so rest 
you as proper exercise. When taken in the morn- 
ing it prepares you for the day; taken after school 
it rests you from your mental labors, puts you in 
condition for the enjoyment of your six o'clock 
dinner, also to enjoy your friends, their enjoyment 
of you, your readiness for lectures and entertain- 
ments; taken just before retiring the overloaded 
blood vessels of the brain are relieved, and sweet, 
refreshing sleep is yours. 

THE LAWYER. 

Who of all the professions is more in need of a 
sound mind in a sound body? This applies with 
equal force to the mild counsellor or the fiery 
pleader or debater. How many hopes have been 
shattered, how many idols destroyed, how many 
lives blasted by the unwise, unsound counsel or 
argument of the lawyer into whose hands was 
placed all that was left of life that was worth the 
living. 

THE PREACHER. 

Spirituality is not all; it is only a one-third de- 
velopment. To complete the triangle, the two 



EXERCISE-ITS BENEFITS. 173 

others — mental and physical — are necessary. With 
better trained bodies would come clearer minds 
and higher and purer thoughts. When the body is 
not only considered to be, but treated as the temple 
of the soul, then the liver and stomach will act in 
harmony with the regenerated heart, and our spir- 
itual advisers will not so often "see as through a 
glass darkly." To those who minister unto us I 
would minister unto them by prescribing fresh air 
and sunshine and a little exercise every day, doub- 
ling the dose on Sunday; then "blue Mondays" will 
vanish forevermore. 

THE BENEFITS ARE NUMEROUS. 

I shall mention but a few, showing that every 
one, in every walk of life, will receive reward com- 
mensurate with the work and time given; aye, 
more. 

OBESITY (SUPERFLUOUS FLESH). 

Proper exercise will reduce the size of any por- 
tion of the body where there is superfluous flesh. 
Wherever superabundance of fat exists, special ex- 
ercises will burn out the adipose tissue, will con- 
sume it as completely as fire consumes fat. As fat 
adds fuel to the flame, and thereby increases the 
heat, so the excessive fat of the body overheats it 
and causes such discomfiture in warm weather as is 
known only to one so burdened. In winter it is less 
noticeable, as the heat is needed for the warmth of 
the body ; yet this should be furnished daily and need 
not be in excess of bodily demands. 



174 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

SCARCITY OF FLESH. 

Too thin? No need. Proper exercise and nour- 
ishing food will build up any part of the body. This 
is true with nine out of ten and will greatly aid the 
tenth. The law of Nature is equilibrium. Where 
this does not exist it is an indication that Nature 
has been either hindered or perverted. By proper 
exercise you tear down tissue in any part of the 
body you desire to build up. This is true of 
scrawny neck, thin arms, undeveloped bust, spindle 
legs, flat chest, &c. This exercise will call for nour- 
ishing food not only to supply th- waste, but give 
increase of flesh wherever needed. Remember that 
whatever you will to have you may have. 

THE LIVER. 

Is life worth living? It depends upon the liver. 
If more persons knew how to live there would be 
less liver trouble. Will exercise aid it? There is no 
organ of the body more directly benefited by ex- 
ercise than the liver. An inactive person has, usu- 
ally, an inactive, sluggish, torpid liver. A torpid 
liver means excess of bile (biliousness), but that 
condition does not occur with one who takes proper 
and sufficient exercise. A bilious and dyspeptic 
person is more to be avoided than — well, almost 
anything disagreeable. One quart of fresh air, 
loaded with oxygen, is worth barrels of any patent 
medicine ever made for the various liver troubles. 

THE HEART. 

Have vou weak heart action? Then exercise. — 
judiciously. Increase the trouble? No, not when 



EXERCISE-ITS BENEFITS. 176 

properly "done. If you have a weak muscle in any 
other part of the body you must exercise it to in- 
crease its strength. The heart is a muscle and, 
when in perfect condition, is capable of enormous 
exercise without injury. If it is only weak — that is, 
no organic difficulty — the desired strength may be 
obtained by any form of exercise that causes deep, 
slow, rhythmic breathing; then increase the exercise 
from time to time as the heart increases in strength. 
Avoid jerky, spasmodic breathing. The exhala- 
tion should be slower than the inhalations in order 
to not produce too great dilatation of the heart. 
As the diaphragm descends, seize it, as it were, with 
the waist muscles and check it a moment, thus con- 
trolling its upward movement, — the exhalation. 

First make sure that it is your heart that needs 
attention and care. Nine-tenths of so called heart 
troubles are due to the condition of the liver and 
stomach. 

THE LUNGS. 

Lungs weak? Bronchial difficulty? Asthma? 
Catarrh? Consumption? Then partake freely of 
the medicine that God has so freely given and given 
free to every one. Not one person in hundreds 
among adults breathes correctly or sufficiently. 
You should exercise every day in the open air, or 
where there is moving air. Do not exhaust the deli- 
cate' air cells of the lungs by causing the burden 
necessary to lifting the chest to fall upon them. 
Exercise the muscles of the chest to keep it in place 
(active chest), and thus leave room for the lungs 



m WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

to expand. Breathe deeply all the way to the 
waist; hold the breath a moment, then force it out 
slowly but powerfully through the smallest pos- 
sible aperture of the mouth. This is the only exer- 
cise that will force the air to the apexes of the 
lungs and also give relief to and eventually cure 
asthmatic subjects. Never be without fresh air and 
exercise in it daily — hourly if needs be. 

THE STOMACH DYSPEPSIA. 

Another trouble. Almost wholly American. It 
is not altogether what you eat, but how you eat, and 
when you eat, and under what conditions you eat. 
I offer the same prescription, — exercise, but not 
necessarily of the extremities, the arms and legs, 
but of the muscles surrounding the abdominal 
cavity containing the stomach; such exercise as 
requires deep breathing and strong action of the 
diaphragm on the stomach and liver lying directly 
underneath and o'erlapping each other. This is 
essential when the stomach is inactive and needs 
blood supply and the proper churning process to 
get the food ready to pass on to the duodenum. In 
all other cases and at all other times, that which 
helps the general circulation helps the stomach. 

THE KIDNEYS. 

Exercise aid them .also? Truly. The kidneys 
are the strainers or niters of the human system; 
often called the scapegoat. They are unlike any 
other organ of the body. If the blood become loaded 
with poisonous substances that the kidneys can- 
not strain, the poison is thrown back into the sys- 



EPERCISE— ITS BENEFITS. 177 

tern. Proper and regular exercise will strengthen 
the kidneys in their office of keeping the blood 
pure by filtering it and separating therefrom the 
impurities and excreting them. The kidneys, of 
themselves, are painless, but the "regions round 
about" will quickly sound the note of warning. An 
abundance of good water drunk daily is an excel- 
lent diuretic. 

PERFECT CIRCULATION. 

Surprising as the statement may seem, it is 
nevertheless true that perfect circulation secures 
perfect health; in other words, where it obtains 
there can be no disease. Perfect circulation allows 
no congestion of any organ, no sluggishness, no 
collection of poisonous substances, but, instead, 
perfect absorption, oxygenation, oxidation, assim- 
ilation and elimination. 

What will bring this great boon to humanity? 
Proper food, fresh air, pure water and exercise — 
exercise — exercise. 

CONSTIPATION. 

Lyman Beecher once said to a friend as a part- 
ing admonition, "Fear God, , have a clear con- 
science and keep your bowels open." Timely ad- 
vice this. When the main thoroughfare for all ref- 
use becomes clogged, I fail to see how a man can 
have a clear conscience, clear mind, clear anything. 
Nor is there any excuse for such a condition in this 
enlightened day. 

Avoid drastic drug's. Every morning imme- 
diately upon arising flush the stomach with one or 



178 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

more glasses of cold water (not iced). This to' 
keep stomach and bowels in good condition; but 
to get them in that condition put a teaspoonful of 
salt in one of the goblets of water. This is Na- 
ture's remedy to> tone up the stomach and cause a 
peristaltic action of the bowels. Flushing the colon 
is also to be recommended in obstinate cases. Ex- 
ercise the waist muscles by bowing, bending and 
twisting the body — from the hips. 

When the desired results are reached drop the 
use of the salt, but continue with the cold water 
and exercise, 

PHYSICAL BEAUTY. 

Do you desire it? You'll not find it in a drug 
store. 'Tis said ''Beauty is only skin deep." To all 
appearances this may be true, but it will not stand 
investigation. A cosmetic complexion is not even 
skin deep, but wholly on the surface. A clear, genu- 
ine complexion depends upon every organ of the 
body, and the health of every organ depends upon 
exercise, with its regular accompaniments — fresh 
air, nutritious food, pure water. Obtain a com- 
plexion that you can retain. 

Then the Body — You can make it just as sym- 
metrical as you desire. This may be done by syste- 
matic, daily exercise for the development of all 
undeveloped parts. 

HOW NOT TO EXERCISE. 

Haphazardly. Be as regular in your physical 
exercise as you are in your devotions. No, that 
will not do for the majority. Be as regular as you 
ought to be. See? 



EXERCISE-HOW TO TAKE IT. 179 

You can't lay up a storehouse of physical 
strength in a few weeks or months to last you for 
years. A little daily work judiciously done is what 
tells. 

WHEN TO EXERCISE. 

The body is supposed to be in its very best 
physical condition at n A. M. and n P. M. These 
hours, especially the latter, may not be convenient, 
and surely the latter is not desirable, if one can re- 
tire earlier. I would suggest light exercise the 
first thing in the morning — just enough to 
quicken circulation. Take this before, not after, 
the morning bath. Just before retiring take the 
stronger muscular work. It will rest the brain, 
rest the tired part of the body and give flight to 
insomnia. 

HOW MUCH TO EXERCISE. 

If unaccustomed to it, begin very carefully, and 
work gradually. Just a few moments at a time 
and only a few of each of the exercises. If the 
muscles appear sore it is a good indication, and the 
exercises should be continued regularly until the 
muscles and tendons become accustomed to the 
new work. Always stop short of fatigue — unless 
you are too fat. 

SAFE FOR DELICATE PEOPLE. 

Exercise is much safer than drugs and much 
pleasanter to take. Delicacy is simply inactivity 
of some organ or organs. Give them the needed 
exercise and get the whole machinery in good 
working order. Then the organs call for nourish- 



180 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

ment, and this means increased appetite for nutri- 
tious food, improved digestion, better circulation, 
and, little by little, in proportion to the exercise 
taken, new and better tissue will be formed, and 
the body will begin to round out and show marked 
signs of improvement. Remember that proper 
exercise will add years to your life and life to your 
years. 

NO LOSS OF TIME. 

No one ever misappropriates time that is used 
for exercise. The busiest man or woman in the 
world can find a few moments each day to take 
proper care of the body. It will give you the 
health necessary to enjoy the wealth, and it will 
give you wealth — wealth of body and wealth of 
mind. 

YOU CAN EXERCISE AT HOME. 

Gymnasiums are all right in their place, but 
their place is not always convenient nor accessible. 
It takes time to go, time to dress, time to return, 
and then it takes inclination and — money. For 
years a leading member of a turnverein society, I 
am partial to gymnastic work, but to meet the 
needs of the day we must meet them where they 
so often exist at the home. 

EXERCISING WITH APPARATUS. 

This is optional. Indian clubs, dumbbells, pul- 
ley weights and exercisers of various kinds are 
pleasant and profitable to use. The pendulum of 
physical exercise has swung to both extremes; the 
one, with its exceedingly heavy work, causing the 



EXERCISE-HOW TO TAKE IT, 181 

devotee to become muscle-bound; the other, con- 
sisting of a namby pamby, lackadaisical set of move- 
ments, which is highly suggestive of a boneless 
body. Seek the "golden mean" between these ex- 
tremes and thus combine strength and grace — not 
one at the expense of the other. 

Health and strength are vouchsafed to all who 
comply with the requirements, and length of days 
and years of. usefulness will be added unto you. 




REDUCING HIPS. 



Cfie Reduction of flesft. 

There are two conditions to be avoided in the ac- 
quiring of health, strength and comeliness of form 
or personal beauty; one is the excess of adipose tis- 
sue or flesh, the other is the want of it. These con- 
ditions depend upon heredity and environment or 
conditions. Whatever the cause may be, more or 
less may be done in overcoming the results. 

The person who is becoming too fleshy should of 
course avoid an excess of fat producing foods and 
take an abundance of exercise. Where this can 
be fully carried out the desired result will be se- 
cured, but oftentimes it may be difficult to regulate 
the diet properly, and especially for want of time 
and physical strength to secure the necessary 
amount of bodily exercise, as this frequently comes 
with advancing years, when there is a lessening of 
physical force and strength, or is the result of dis- 
eased and abnormal conditions, rendering the per- 
son weak, and there is not sufficient bodily strength 
to take the requisite amount of exercise for the ac- 
complishment of the purpose. 

Those with a tendency to fulness in the abdomen 
will do much to overcome it by a series of exercises, 
especially bending over so as to touch the fingers to< 
the floor and then backward as far as possible, but 
it is very likely to be the case that for lack of phys- 



184 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

ical strength these movements, which are a strain 
on other parts of the body, cannot be maintained 
for a sufficient length of time to do very much good. 

The person who is becoming too fleshy should 
sleep on a hard bed, sleeping part of the time on one 
side and part on the other, and avoiding too much 
sleep. 

Massage has been found exceedingly helpful, es- 
pecially when taken in connection with the Turkish 
baths, but this treatment is beyond the reach of 
some and costly for all. It has been found that the 
desired results can be obtained more readily and 
surely in the use of Dr. Forest's Massage Rollers 
than in any other way. In applying these there is 
little or no friction on the skin as the wheels' turn- 
ing avoid this. They may be used over the under- 
clothing, or if in the hands of another, over light 
bed clothing, and the pressure is brought on the 
deep tissues where it is needed, not on the skin or 
surface of the body. When applied with a steady, 
hard pressure, the fatty cells, which are deposited 
in the muscular tissues, are broken down, enter into 
the circulation and are eliminated. The move- 
ments should be lengthwise of the muscular tissues, 
not across them, as the object is to increase the cir- 
culation and take the blood from the parts rather 
than to bring it to them. 

Excessive hips and thighs can be reduced by this 
treatment surely and easily by a few moments night 
and morning. The rolling should be with a firm, 
Steady pressure, as high up above the waist as it can 



REDUCTION OF FLESH. 




FOR REDUCTION OF HIPS AND ABDOMEN. 

readily be given and up and down over the thighs, 
and over the abdomen it may be up and down and 
from side to side as the muscular tissues run in each 
way. 

In case t^here is a pendulous and protruding ab- 
domen it sometimes comes from a weakening of the 



186 



WOMANLY BEAUTY. 



muscles on the sides, allowing it to droop, for this 
the treatment should be given up and down on each 
side of the abdomen which will tend to strengthen 
and increase the elasticity of these muscles, and so 
draw back and hold the abdomen in place. The 
rolling should be applied morning and evening over 
the underclothing, and as much as one hundred 
times over each part. 

Wherever there is a 
tendency to a flabby 
condition of any part 
this will help to restore 
the muscular strength 
and activity. While it 
is not necessary to re- 
strict our diet to cer- 
tain specific articles, it 
is well, when there is a 
tendency to make flesh 
fast, to avoid food that 
is especially fat pro- 
ducing. The efficacy 
of this treatment has 
been thoroughly tested 
and there are many 
who bear witness in 
their appearance and 
by their words as to the 
success of the method. 

The rollers, No. i, with six wheels, or No. x, with, 
four wheels, may be used. Many find the use of 




REDUCTION OF FLESH. 187 

two of the small rollers an advantage, using one in 
hand on the sides or over the limbs at the same 
each time. 

FOUR IN CHES IN SIX WEEKS. 

A well known professional woman of this city, 
says : — 

"My duties keep me very closely to the house, 
and thus I do not get the exercise I really need. Two 
months ago I began the use of the Massage Roller 
and am delighted to find that it has taken off a de- 
posit of fat. Night and morning over my combi- 
nation underclothing, I rubbed strongly up and 
down, over my abdomen, hips and back, and in six 
weeks reduced my measure about the hips four 
inches. All my friends notice the improvement, 
and my dressmaker considers it remarkable. She 
has been obliged to alter all my gowns. Its use 
strengthens the limbs, makes one stand and sit up 
straight, overcomes a tendency to constipation in 
even obstinate cases, and imparts a delightful sense 
of being well and ready for work or play. I con- 
sider it one of my best friends." E. N. N. 

SIX INCHES IN THREE MONTHS. 

Excess of flesh and constipation often come to- 
gether, sometimes separately. There is relief from 
both. Read this letter from one who has proved 
very fully the efficiency of the Roller treatment for 
both of these troubles. 

Arlington, Mass., September 26, 1899. 

Gentlemen, — After three months' use of Dr. 
Forest's Massage Roller, it gives me pleasure to 



188 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

write and tell you something of the benefit I have 
received from it. Three months ago I was "Fair, 
Fat and Forty;"' to-day I am "Fair, Trim and 
Forty," having reduced my hip and waist measure 
six inches. For chronic constipation of twenty 
years' standing, it has accomplished what all those 
years of medicine have failed to do. Physicians say 
it has worked wonders in mv case, and pronounce 
the roller a good thing. 

If any part of the above is of any use to you for 
publication, you are welcome to it, but I prefer 
you should not publish my name. I remain, 
Very truly yours. Miss . 

The writer of this is only one of many who have 
been permanently cured of these troubles. 

A scientific and literary gentleman says: 

"I have reduced my waist measure four inches, 
and feel a hundred per cent better. Do not publish 
my name, as I have no time to answer letters about 
it, but I tell my friends everywhere what it has done 
for me. ' ' 

The daily use of the Rollers will prevent accumu- 
lations of fatty deposits and secure a good form, with 
muscular rctivity. 



Cbe Ugly DucKlina— E Story. 

By Blsie Carmichael. 

"I don't know what I am going to do with An- 
nette next year," sighed Mrs. Blake, dropping her 
plump, jewelled hands into her lap, with a little ges- 
ture of weariness. "She is eighteen and ought to 
come out next winter, but just look at her!" They 
both turned and glanced over the wide velvety lawn, 
toward a group of young people. Among them, 
stoo'd Annette, the ugly duckling of the family, and 
Dorothy Fisher, her married sister, thought that 
her mother was fully justified in her distress about 
her. 

The girl was tall and very thin, with stooping 
shoulders and an awkward carriage. Her com- 
plexion was pale to chalkiness, and her hair had 
unkempt locks, blowing in the sea breeze. 

"Would you ever think she was a daughter of 
mine?" sighed Mrs. Blake, who had been a noted 
beauty in her youth, and was still a very lovely 
woman, with a superb figure and carriage. Doro- 
thy was looking at her little sister with a critical 
eye, and did not answer at once. 

"The child has good eyes," she said, at last, "re- 
ally very fine eyes, and seems to have some good 
points." 



ISO WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

"Oh, yes, Dorothy, I know," said Mrs. Blake 
wearily. "But she is not fit at all to be introduced 
next winter. I don't know what to do with her. I 
have sent her to the riding school and the gymna- 
sium, and she joined Mrs. Carnaby's dancing class, 
but she grows more gauche every moment. I am 
quite discouraged." 

"See here, mother, dear, I wish you would lend 
Annette to me next winter. Let her go to San 
Francisco, when I go home, and Jack and I will be 
simply charmed to have her with us for a ye ir. 
When I bring her home next summer I'll warrant 
you will see a change in her." Mrs. Blake looked 
more cheerful. 

"Why, Dorothy, how very nice of you! It would 
be a charming scheme, but I really don't see that 
it would make very much difference in the end. We 
will have the same difficulty about making her pre- 
sentable next year that we have had this. I can- 
not understand why she has not your figure and 
carriage. I never had any such trouble with you." 

"No, dear, of course not," answered Dorothy, 
her eyes sparkling, "because I brought about the 
figure and carriage myself. I should have been 
just as awkward as the poor child if I had not set 
about getting in training just like an athlete. 
Leave Annette to me next year, and I will wager 
you anything that you will not know her when I 
bring her home next June. Will you?" 

"Yes, indeed, my dear; you may have her, but 
I do hate to impose her on you and Jack. It seems 



THE UGLY DUCKLING. 191 

quite unkind. I would prefer, of course, that she 
keep very quiet, and not go out at all." 

"Oh, of course; that's all part of my training," 
laughed Dorothy. "I shall be very rigid, and I am 
afraid the child may not like some of my rules, but 
if I make a beauty of her she will forgive me. One 
year from now, mumsie, dear, I'll explain my meth- 
ods, which are quite infallible, I am sure. I can 
feel for poor Annette, for when I first went to 
boarding school I was almost as gauche as she, but 
my training there was excellent." 

Mrs. Fisher rose and walked down the piazza 
steps. Her mother watched her with admiration, 
as she crossed the lawn, with her erect willowy fig- 
ure and graceful carriage. Annette rushed to meet 
her in an ungainly manner. 

"Come out and play golf," she cried, cavorting 
about her like a very awkward puppy. "Come on, 
Geoffrey, come on everybody; let's go over to the 
links." Mrs. Fisher caught a look of amusement 
in the eyes of Geoffrey Monteith, as he watched 
Annette's gambols. It hurt Dorothy, for Mr. Mon- 
teith was a wealthy young Englishman, who was 
spending the summer at the Pier, and she disliked 
the thought that he was making fun of her litle 
sister. His good opinion was much sought after, 
as he was the greatest lion the Anglo-Americans 
had imported for some years. Besides all that, he 
was a thoroughly good fellow, and Mrs. Fisher 
liked him. 

"Annette," whispered Dorothy, as they strolled 



112 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

over the links together, the younger girl's hand 
on her elder sister's shoulder, boy fashion, "would 
you like to come out to California with me for the 
winter. Mother says you can go." 

"Oh, Dot, how simply out of sight," cried An- 
nette, stopping and seizing her by the arm, in her 
strong young fingers. "Do* you really mean it? 
Mumsie was threatening to bring me out, and I 
didn't want to do it one bit. But California! Oh, 
Jerusalem!" Her superb brown eyes flashed with 
delight. 

"Dearest, ' : said her sister, in a low tone, "don't 
use so much slang — its dreadfully vulgar. You 
must promise me, dear, if you come, that you 
will do exactly as I tell you about some things." 

"Oh, I'll promise anything," she cried, excitedly, 
"if you will let me go down to Jack's ranch, and 
ride those bronchos of his, and do stunts like that, 
will you?" 

"Yes," promised Dorothy, "if you will be good, 
and do as I wish about some things." 

Annette ran on to tell the others, and Mr. Mon- 
teith joined Dorothy. "Your sister has the greatest 
spirits I ever saw," he said. "I envy her enthu- 
siasm; isn't it delicious?" He looked after her with 
admiration in his eyes. Dorothy was surprised. 
He usually "damned people with faint praise," but 
this was real boyish admiration. 

"Annette is a dear child. Mr. Monteith," she 
said. "I am only distressed now about her awk- 
wardness. We must forgive a great deal in her 
because of her youth." 



THE UGLY DUCKLING. 193 

"Oh, she will outgrow that," he said, laughing- 
ly, "I hope," he added. Then he grew a little red 
and looked embarrassed. 

'"I am going to take Annette to San Francisco 
with me for next winter," Mrs. Fisher said. "I 
have some schemes for her, and it will be much 
better than for her to come out so soon. She 
wouldn't be presentable now." 

"You know it seems a pity to think of her hav- 
ing to come out at all," he said, seriously. "To 
think of her boundless enthusiasm and good spir- 
its being crushed out with our conventional ways. 
It's a great pity! I would not worry about her 
coming out all right, though, Mrs. Fisher. My 
sister used to be a perfect tomboy, and now she has 
settled down into a mighty pretty little matron, 
don't you think?" 

Dorothy thought of the perfect manners and 
grace of beautiful Lady Mary Castleton, and fresh 
hopes seized her. If that most conventional and 
lovely woman had had even a little of the gaucherie 
of Annette, perhaps there was a chance for the 
latter. 

"I may be in the West myself next winter," said 
Mr. Monteith. "I am going to be in California 
with some friends." And then, of course, ensued 
invitations on Mrs. Fisher's side, and many plans 
for the winter. 

Mrs. Fisher and her sister went West in the 
early fall, but it was not until March that Dorothy 
received a note from Mr. Monteith one day, saying 



194 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

that he expected to be in San Francisco and would 
call on them on the following Tuesday, which he 
knew was their "at home" day. 

"Let us get up a house party at Roselands while 
he is here," said Dorothy, as she finished reading 
the note aloud to her huband and Annette at the 
breakfast table. She glanced up at the latter in- 
quiringly. 

"It would be delightful, I'm sure," she said, flush- 
ing under her sister's scrutiny. "You know I love 
Roselands dearly, and I am sure Mr. Monteith 
would enjoy the outdoor life." 

"Then whom shall we have?" asked Dorothy, as 
she poured out a cup of coffee for her husband. 
"There, I've put in two lumps, Jack, by mistake. 
Fish one out or it will be too sweet for you." 

"Ask any one you want, Dot," said Jack, ab- 
sently, glancing over his mail. "You and Anne 
decide all that. Only don't have that confounded 
little ape of a Blinker, who has been hanging round 
Anne lately." 

Annette laughed merrily. "We aren't any more 
anxious than you to have him." She thought of 
the little fussy Mr. Blinker, and then of the big, 
athletic young Englishman, and then she blushed. 
"What's the matter, Anne?" said Jack, looking up. 
"You're growing redder every moment. Don't 
you like to be jollied about little Blinkum? What 
are you kicking me for. Dot?" and then he sub- 
sided behind his newspaper. 

About five o'clock on Tuesday afternoon Mon- 



THfi UGLY DUCKLING. 195 

feith rang the bell of Mrs. Fisher's house. He found 
himself feeling very much excited as he followed 
the butler down the hall. He had fought off this 
feeling he had for Annette for nearly a year now, 
but instead of crushing his love for her he found he 
had been living on the thought of this meeting for 
many months. He wondered what his mother 
would think if he should bring home this romping, 
awkward little tomboy, to be the future Lady Mon- 
teith. Her gaucherie offended his aristocratic 
taste, and yet, in the real Annette back of it all, 
he found himself more and more interested. The 
freshness and true beauty of her character he could 
appreciate. 

"Mr. Monteith," announced the butler, drawing 
the portiere, and Dorothy came to meet him, with 
outstretched hand. 

There were several people talking in little groups, 
and after she had introduced him to two or three, 
she said: — '"Annette will give you a cup of tea 
over there in the bay window," and sent him away. 
He made his way down the long drawing room, 
thinking that in the old days Annette would have 
rushed to meet him, probably overturning a table 
in her flight. 

There was a little crowd about the table, but 
when he caught sight of the girl who was pouring 
tea he stopped involuntarily. That couldn't be 
Annette — that erect girl with the broad shoulders 
and fine figure and the conventional manner, 
When she caught sight of him, however, she 



196 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

dropped the eggshell cup in her hand, and it lay 
shattered on the polished floor. She blushed fu- 
riously as she rose and came toward him. He 
noticed that she carried herself most gracefully. 

"Mr. Monteith," she said as she shook hands, 
"this is a great pleasure." He was a little disap- 
pointed to have her speak to him in the same con- 
ventional way that she spoke to these others. 

"You used to say Geoffrey," he said in low tones 
as the others moved away, leaving them alone. 

"That was when I was a little girl," she said, 
dropping her eyes. 

"But it was only last summer," he returned, 
laughing. "Have you grown up so very quickly. 
You have changed very much," he added. 

"Not a bit" she said. "What will Dot do when 
I tell her I've smashed one of her best cups. You 
will protect me. won't you?" She looked up at him 
coquet tishly through her long lashes. "You see it 
was- your fault — you startled me so." 

She was bewitching. Monteith could not real- 
ize that she was the same little girl. Her eyes had 
always been her best feature, but now her skin was 
soft and delicately flushed with pink, and she car- 
ried herself like a little princess. 

"Were you glad to see me, Nita?" he asked, in a 
low tone, drawing a little nearer. "Were you as 
glad to see me as I am to see you?" He watched 
the pink flush mount to her white brow, and al- 
though she said nothing for a moment he was sat- 
isfied. 



THE UGLY DUCKLING. 197 

"Of course I am," she said, after a little pause. 
"Dot's going to ask you down to Roselands. I 
know you will love it there. Its a big ranch, with 
acres of rose gardens and a bower of a house, cov- 
ered with climbing vines, and we will go for long 
gallops on Jack's ponies, and it will be glorious! 
Will you come?" 

"Will I come?" he said, in a tone and with a 
look that made her white and then red again. 

At that moment Dorothy came over to the tea 
table and brought some elderly ladies for a cup of 
tea, and Geoffrey rose to give some one his seat. 
He stood and watched Annette, with his heart in 
his eyes, as she deftly poured their tea and talked 
in an animated way. She was all his heart could 
desire. Her self-possession and her graceful man- 
ner were a perfect surprise to him. 

"Don't you think that Annette has improved?" 
asked Mrs. Fisher, going over to his side. She 
had seen the look in his eyes, and felt quite satisfied 
with her winter's work. 

"She is simply charming, Mrs. Fisher," he said. 
"You are to be congratulated on the course of 
training. I knew she would develop into a fine 
woman. She seems so much older, I cannot realize 
that I saw her only six months ago. It seems like 
six years," he said, musingly. 

* * * 

It was early in June. Dorothy and her mother 
were sitting on the broad veranda' of Mrs. Blake'* 
cottage, They watched Annette and Geoffrey 



198 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

Monteith stroll across the lawn to the little pier, 
where a little sloop lay rising and falling on the 
waves that dashed against the stone piles. The en- 
gagement was to be announced the following 
week, and Mrs. Blake's eyes filled with tears as she 
thought how soon this youngest daughter of hers 
would be spirited away over the sea to reign as 
mistress of Monteith House, one of the finest seats 
in England. 

"Dorothy, now you must tell me how yon 
changed my ugly duckling to such a beautiful 
swan," she begged. "You have worked wonders 
with the child — it is marvellous. Even I, her own 
mother, would hardly recognize her now." 

"Annette deserves a great deal of credit," 
answered Dorothy. "If she had not worked hard 
herself and obeyed me implicitly, I could never 
have accomplished so much in so short a time. In 
the first place, she lived out of doors all day long. 
In New York, you know, she always had to put up 
with a walk or a ride in the Park, but out on Jack's 
ranch she rode for miles every day, and that fresh, 
pure air and the exercise did a great deal to start 
her circulation, which had never been good. Then 
we put up a little gymnasium for her, and regularly, 
twice a day, she worked conscientiously with a 
hand exerciser to develop her chest, broaden her 
shoulders and fill her biceps and triceps. The sys- 
tematic exercise, which is light and no strain on 
the most delicate person, did wonders. For a 
month it was a little tiresome to her, but when she 



THE UGLY DUCKLING. 199 

saw her muscles filling 1 out and her chest growing 
deep, she became very enthusiastic and worked 
away. Then her complexion had begun to im- 
prove, but her cheeks were still thin, so I gave her 
a dainty little facial massage roller, in ivory — one 
of Dr. Forest's inventions — and, after a steady use 
of that for a few weeks her facial muscles grew 
firm and the skin had a healthy pink color, as the 
blood flowed freely through her veins and capilla- 
ries. All this exercise tended to make her carry 
herself better. As her shoulders grew straight and 
broad and her lungs expanded, it was easier for her 
to walk well, and the old stoop and awkward gait 
disappeared. Now, I think Annette is really a 
beauty, and I am proud of her." 

"And I am proud of you, too, Dot!" said her 
mother fondly. "You have done more for the child 
than she will ever appreciate or know." 




Well Prcscrpcd. 



Perfumes and fiealtb. 

By Feux L,. Oswald, M. D. 

The science of health since its alliance with the 
theory of evolution has begun to re-establish the 
long forgotten truth that the means of sanitary sal- 
vation are indicated by the testimony of our natural 
instincts. 

Palatable food is accepted on its own recom- 
mendation. The brutal mediaeval delusion that 
children ought to be forced to disregard their food 
predilections is now recognized as a cause of scrof- 
ula and cachetic degeneracy. Sailors are no longer 
sickened with salt beef and mouldy hard tack. 
"Whatever is pleasant is wrong" was the shibboleth 
of anti-naturalism and doctors groaned at the men- 
tion of sweetmeats, but eight months ago the chief 
surgeon of the Prussian army recommended a new 
departure and lump sugar now forms a part of the 
soldiers' rations. They are not only allowed, but 
admonished to pocket a few ounces to improve 
their staying powers on long marches. 

Nauseous drugs are admitted to do more harm 
than good. Domestic autocrats no longer dose their 
youngsters with brimstone and treacle. 
: Theological sulphurites, too, are going out of 
fashion. Dr. Parkhurst ventured to record his con- 



802 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

victionthat the suppression of harmless pastimes has 
done more mischief than can be undone in a century 
of joy worship, and warns educators that by robbing 
a child's life of its sunshine they will foster the de- 
velopment of the moral mildew that festers in the 
gloom of dungeons. 

Under normal conditions attractive things are 
beneficial, hurtful things repulsive — teste the fact 
of an unseduced child's horror of strong stimulants. 

A more extended application of the same rule 
ought to justify the Oriental passion for perfumes. 

"Perfumery and prayer" were two of the three 
enjoyments which Mohammed, the Man of Allah, 
valued above all other earthly blessings. Without a 
parterre of roses and jessamine shrubs a Persian 
nobleman would hardly think wealth worth having. 
The custom of anointing the hair of a favorite guest 
still prevails in Northern Africa. Attar of roses is 
found in the cupboards of well to do housekeepers 
from Egypt to Morocco. The First Napoleon often 
commended it on his Egyptian campaign, and be- 
came so fond of perfumes that he ranked them with 
the necessities of daily life. He mixed them with 
the water of his morning bath, and, according to his 
biographer, Bourriconne, never went out to review 
his troops without drenching himself with eau de 
cologne, of which he always had gallons on hand. 
He would pour about half a quart of it into a wash 
basin, slightly dilute it with water, and apply it by 
means of a sprinkle brush, under the impression that 



PERFUMES AND HEAETH. 203 

it was more effective than aromatic vinegar in pre- 
venting contagion of all sorts. 

"Crown me with flowers, sprinkle me with per- 
fumes, that I may thus enter the chamber of eternal 
rest," were the last words of Gabriel Mirabeau. The 
Greek Catholic churches use tons of incense every 
year, and maintain that its aromatic fumes keep evil 
spirits at bay. 

Is it quite inconceivable that it counteracts at- 
mospheric impurities, routs microbes and protects 
the lungs against disease germs? What else can 
have developed the natural predilection for odors 
of that sort? In the case of instincts acting upon 
the nerves of the palate, an analogous explanation 
is plausible enough. Those who most relished the 
taste of ripe fruit and detested that of vegetable 
poisons had a superior chance of survival. 

How do apples happen to taste more pleasant as 
they become more digestible? What makes strych- 
nine so bitter that it betrays itself by the very float- 
ing dust of its powder coming in contact with a 
human tongue? "It has pleased Providence thus 
to warn us against fatal perils," an old school phi- 
losopher would reply without a moment's hesita- 
tion. 

But on that theory, how shall we account for the 
fact that arsenic does not carry its own sanitary 
danger signal? It is almost as tasteless as chalk, 
yet will kill as quick as vegetable poisons of which 
a single drop would betray its presence in a gallon 
of water. 



204 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

Is it not more than probable that the difference 
has something to do with the circumstance that 
arsenic is a product of complicated mining opera- 
tions — an out of the way substance, so to say — 
against which nature thought it superfluous to 
warn her children? 

She does warn them against virulent plants, by 
methods acting alike on the shrewd and dull. Those 
who are quickest in heeding the protest of their 
palate survive, the rest perish. 

That process of natural selection, continued 
through a countless series of ages, has at last made 
the approval of our nerves of taste a pretty safe 
criterion of healthfulness, the apparent exception 
being nearly always a result of perverted appetites, 
acquired through persistent disregard of instinct- 
ive admonitions. 

Why should we doubt that the approvals, as well 
as protests, of our olfactory nerves have a similar 
purpose? We know that • countless enemies to 
health and life announce the danger of their pres- 
ence by repulsive odors. Is there any reason to 
mistrust the competence of the same monitors 
when they recommend the aroma of special sub- 
stances? 

The inexpressively attractive odor of coniferous 
forests has already prevailed against stupid preju- 
dices and made the sanitariums of the Southern 
pine woods popular health resorts. They were in- 
dorsed by sundry medical authorities, but nature 
added her casting vote by making them atmos- 






PERFUMES AND HEALTH. 20& 

pheric pleasure resorts. French physicians have 
gone a step further by sending patients to the Isles 
Hyeres, where the air is saturated with the odor of 
flower plantations. Some half dozen different per- 
fume factories cultivate hyacinths, pinks, roses, 
mignonette, heliotrope, violets, etc., by hundreds 
of acres, and the result is an air de mil fleurs that 
can be noticed miles to seaward, and pervades the 
lungs of visitors to the inmost cells of their tissue. 

The persistence of such aromas does surfeit sen- 
sitive patients, but it is probable that it affects the 
microbes of their ailments in a more decided man- 
ner, just as the germs of malignant catarrh are killed 
by frosts which only slightly affect the comfort of 
the convalescent. 

But domestic experiments might settle such facts 
at less expense. The nations of Souhern Europe 
perfume their sitting rooms with juniper berries, 
myrrh, mint and other fragrant plants, and a mix- 
ture of a dozen such sweet herbs can be bought in 
many German-American drug stores under the 
name of raucher pulver (fumigating powder) at 
about ten cents an ounce. A small fraction of that 
quantity sprinkled on a warm stove will develop a 
perfume that penetrates a number of adjoining 
rooms, and lingers for hours. 

Apple peels can be dried and preserved for years 
to be used in a similar manner, and a Danish lady of 
my acquaintance recommends the custom of hold- 
ing on to old Christmas trees, bottom frame and all, 
and now and then let them stand close to a warm 



206 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

stove, and evolve a trace of the aroma that their 
brethren in the forest generate under the influence 
of the summer sun. 

The fumes of glue factories and the more horrid 
effluvia of the stock yards: — 

"Complicirte Mord Gestaenke, 

Gas und Schweine-mist," 

have hardened millions to the grievance of atmos- 
pheric taints, and perfumes have come to be classed 
with superfluities, but the competence of instinct 
would be once more vindicated if they should prove 
to serve the purpose of disinfectants. 



Some Secrets About a Beautiful Heck. 

By Ei^anor Wainwright. 

In an article in a recent number of "Healch-Cul- 
ture" the writer says: — "The typical American girl, 
as Mr. Gibson has so attractively portrayed her, 
counts, among her many charms, a beautiful, slen- 
der throat and gracefully rounded neck and shoul- 
ders. It would be impossible to think of a Gibson 
girl in )a decollete gown, with prominent collar 
bones and painfully conspicuous hollows, but the 
girls who covet the Gibsonian type may be inter- 
ested to know that a beautiful neck lies in their 
power if only they will work for it. 

"Probably many of the 'Health-Culture" readers 
have found that wonderful results come from the 
use of the Massage Roller. The writer, who revels 
in advertisements, came across a description of the 
roller in Health-Culture, and being impressed with 
the glorious possibilities it offered she forthwith 
became the owner of one. It is needless to say 
that she has never repented of her bargain. Her 
plan for development was to roll each collar bone 
and the hollow in front between the two ends of the 
bones, a hundred times apiece every night, and she 
found that her heroic treatment resulted in a rapid 
improvement All the enthusiastic girls who care 
to use a Massage Roller systematically will find 



208 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

that it is a decidedly paying investment. 

"After the rolling or the exercisestheneck should 
be bathed in hot water and soap and rubbed with 
a soft towel. Follow this by rubbing the 'Health- 
Culture Skin Food' -ill over the neck and throat, 
and you find that this makes the skin very white and 
soft, besides being a developer. Let what does not 
absorb in rubbing in stay on all night, and the next 
morning carefully bathe the neck in tepid water and 
soap. These suggestions the writer hopes may be 
of some use to the many girls who long for a beauti- 
ful neck, and if she has given any inspirations her 
wish has been accomplished." 

The fashion of wearing tight fitting high collars 
has, in many cases, had a very unfavorable effect 
upon the neck, ruining the contour and symmetry 
not only of the neck, but also affecting the shoulders 
and bust, rendering it necessary to resort to mas- 
sage and exercises for their restoration, the only 
means that will overcome the trouble and restore 
them to a normal condition. For special instruc- 
tions the reader is referred to the chapter on Facial 
Massage, where directions are given for restoring 
the neck, as well as the face. This should not be 
neglected, for, of course, the longer it stands the 
more difficult' it will be to overcome. 



Dress ana Beauty. 

By Ei,i,a Van Pooi,e. 

Dress exists, primarily from the demand of com- 
fort; laterly, from a sense of ornamentation. 

It is a human privilege to pronounce the indi- 
viduality by choice of dress. Dress should be con- 
sidered secondary to the personality, but contact 
with the world proves that strength or weakness of 
character is plainly announced to the observer by 
one's attire, and that such qualities as neatness, 
artistic sense, extravagance, and carelessness, stu- 
pidity and lack of proportionate understanding are 
shown by its advance guard — dress. 

It is said that the 'greatest compliment which can 
be paid to a woman is to forget her dress. Such 
compliment is never paid to a woman who gives no 
thought to her appearance. The woman who ex- 
hibits the best taste upon the subject is the one 
who considers her apparel from the stand of her 
personality. The greater harmony of nature pos- 
sessed the more exquisitely tasteful will be the 
dress. A well balanced temperament, or an equal- 
ized proportion of the mental, physical and spiritual 
essences within us, woud make our choice of dress 
a part of us, and not considered apart from us. In 



210 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

such women, the texture, the color, the clinging 
drapery is a part of herself — the very rose in her hair 
seems to belong there. This is one reason why the 
more natural in style, the less obstrusive the dress, 
the greater will seem the adaptability to the wearer. 

Considering the subject from the principle of 
comfort, dress should conform to the figure, but in 
a large proportion of humanity the figure is made 
to conform to the dress. Insufficient thought is 
given to the tyranny of Fashion. We grow gray in 
the crusade against intemperance; we wax eloquent 
upon the dishonesty of politics; we beat the liars 
which lock us out from "equal rights;'' we enrich 
the inventors and manufacturers in our experiments 
of predigested foods, but we follow fashion with a 
sheeplike docility, and four times each precious year 
of our grown up lives consult the authorities of the 
fashion plate before we clothe ourselves for the 
season. There has been, there is, a movement 
among the thoughtful which, for want of a more 
definite name, is called "dress reform.'' 

One reason why it has not succeeded in its honest 
and well meant effort is that its leaders have con- 
sidered comfort only in the substitution offered. 
Much brain and time and money have been spent 
at various periods during the latter half of the past 
century to establish a certain method of universal 
dress. Their converts have been few, and their sat- 
isfaction limited. So good a cause, with the benefit 
of all humanity at heart, fails, because two prime 
factors are ignored — individuality and beauty; for 



DRESS AND BEAUTY. 211 

while Fashion is a despot, she does allow some lati- 
tude, but a style of dress which is offered to all alike 
proves contrary to varied taste, and is unadaptable. 
And just as we cannot separate the iaea of strength 
from the rock, a creation of the Allwise Power, 
neither can we eliminate beauty from, the harmoni- 
ousness of woman. It is incarnate and one with 
her. When the independence which is granted us 
upon the choice of almost everything else is allowed 
us in clothing ourselves, then will dress indeed be 
an art. The Hebe whose proportions partake of 
the airy grace of the willow may wear any style 
which pleases her changeful fancy, while her more 
matured companion will select fabric, form and 
color which best suit her emphasized figure. 

Youth will not allow the contact of gems to 
quench the brilliancy of her own eyes, but will make 
simplicity her keynote that beauty of person may 
occupy all of her empire. 

No woman will restrict her breathing power be- 
cause it is the fashion to look slender; nor will little 
boys be made to. wear stiffly starched collars every 
waking moment, hampering and irritating their 
flesh and nerves, when all that should be required 
of them at this period of their lives is physical 
growth. When a loved one goes out of this life we 
will not express our loss by wearing — for a certain 
period only — the very ugliest garb that has ever 
been conceived. And last, but not least, we will 
not wear anything which interferes with our health, 
happiness or sense of fitness. Few rules can be 



2l2 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

given upon the subject of dress which can be uni- 
versally applied. Study dress as you would diet, from 
the stand of your own individuality. Learn that 
the lines of your garments accentuate or diminish 
your proportions. Flowing drapery, soft mate- 
rials, shades of color that blend into your peculiar 
shade of complexion will seem more harmonious, 
more a part of you, than will wired and stiffened 
effects with sharp angles and revers, which imply a 
sort of an aggressiveness anything but pleasing. 
You will do well to learn that there is such a strong 
affinity between the air and the human body that 
heavy flannels will be relegated to the other perse- 
cutions of the flesh practised in the age of ignor- 
ance, where they belong, and beside wearing light 
clothing — light both in color and weight — you will 
take what is known as an air bath, removing all 
clothing and receiving the tonic effect of several 
minutes' contact with the air once during every 
twenty-four hours. Color plays an important part 
in our happiness, as related to dress. There are 
but three prime colors. It is not a theory, but an 
established fact, that the three elements of human 
composition, the soul, the mind, the body, are each 
represented by a color. Yellow is the color be- 
longing to- the soul; blue belongs to the mentality, 
and red is claimed by the physical. You will find 
yourself leaning toward a preference for the color 
which belongs to your own predominating element. 
A study of this is a guide to the selection of becom- 
ing colors. A sensitive nature will be affected ben- 



DRESS AND BEAUTY. 213 

eficially or otherwise by color. Shades of all colors 
can be worn by most temperaments and complex- 
ions. Black is always depressing, and white is both 
beautiful and becoming" always. The woman 
who would appear most womanly will wear soft, 
flowing gowns at home. She will affect a style of 
dress which may be worn without support of stays, 
a,s there is a naturalness and beauty in the indescrib- 
able grace of a body unhampered and permeated by 
its freedom, that artificial support destroys. The 
woman who values her office as queen of the home 
will never endanger her position by carelessness of 
her dress there. She is a wise woman who, be the 
income ever so small, is possessed of the prettiest 
tints in house gowns, even if they be only cotton 
print, in which to appear before those who should 
be dearest of all. 

Dress is an important factor in our existence. It 
is worthy of study. It is capable of authority in our 
health, our happiness, and our power for good. 



normal 
figure. 




Uoice as an Element of Beauty. 

By W. R. C. Latson, M. D. 

Voice is a most important adjunct to beauty. A 
Voice of pure and musical quality, of compass and 
flexibility, is the most perfect complement to 
beauty of face and form, while a disagreeable voice 
will mar the charm of the most beautiful. 

But it is not alone from the standpoint of beauty 
that voice is important. Quality of voice is closely 
related to health. A perfect tone is possible only 
where the body is properly poised, the breathing 
normal and the mucous membranes, which, like 
an inner skin, line the lungs, throat and( mouth, are 
in a healthy condition. In a healthy person this 
membrane, 'which covers many of the important in- 
ternal organs, is hard, firm and smooth. But when, 
through overfeeding or through deficient activity 
of the depurating organs, lungs, skin, bowels and 
kidneys, there is an undue accumulation of waste 
matter in the body, the work of excretion is thrown 
largely upon the mucous membrane, which be- 
comes for the time being an excretory /organ. The 
mucous membrane under these circumstances be- 
comes thickened and rough, and exudes the ac- 
cumulated matter in 'the form of mucous. A "cold'' 
is merely the effort of the mucous membranes of 



21« WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

throat, nose and mouth to void an excess of waste 
matter accumulated in the system. This condition 
of the mucous membrane is called catarrh, and 
is very common. In this country it is probable that 
three people out of five suffer from chronic ca- 
tarrh. 

So it will be seen that quality of voice depends 
very largely upon health. On the other hand, an 
incorrect use of the voice will produce disorder 
through irritation of the mucous membranes as 
well as through local muscular strain and displace- 
ment of the throat muscles. Moreover, the pro- 
duction of voice by incorrect methods occasions an 
amount of general muscular exertion which cannot 
but "result in muscular strain and exhaustion. 

As a means of expression, the voice, either in 
song or speech, is of the greatest importance. The 
lecturer, the clergyman or the actor possessed of a 
powerful, clear and sympathetic voice has at his 
command a wonderful power, while a poor delivery 
will stultify the effect of the most brilliant thoughts. 
To' the successful singer, of course, artistic quality 
of voice is indispensable. So ihe voice, as an ad- 
junct of beauty, as an indication of, and a mean« 
to, health, and as an instrument of expression, is of 
the greatest importance. Voice culture and its al- 
lied art, elocution, should form a part of every sys- 
tem of education. 

The American voice is usually criticised; but 
really there are a number of varieties of the Amer- 
ican voice, some of which are 710 doubt disagreea- 
ble, others of which are not far from perfect. Un- 



VOICE AS AN ELEMENT OF BEAUTY. 217 

derlying voice are the environmental influences, so- 
cial, climatic and dietetic, of the individual. So, in 
the New England region, we find the hard, thin, 
metallic, nasal voice; in the West, the harsh, intense 
voice, veiled by the nearly clinched teeth. The 
voices of the Southern people are almost always 
pleasant, often beautiful. The very condition, how- 
ever, of physical relaxation which conduces to pure 
tone often causes the softness of the tone to de- 
generate into a drawl. The influences which mould 
and affect the quality of the voice constitute an in- 
teresting chapter of physiology, but they cannot be 
fully discussed here. It may be stated, however, 
that the peculiar characteristics of the voice are not 
fixed and unchangeable, but that they are in- 
fluenced by every condition which affects the in- 
dividual, physically, mentally and spiritually. 

So, if any woman finds that her voice is nasal, 
high pitched, weak, harsh, muffled or otherwise 
faulty, she need not despair. The voice can, by 
proper treatment, be absolutely made over. In or- 
der to properly understand the methods by which 
this may be clone, it will be necessary to briefly 
consider the structure and action of the organs 
used in voice production. 

The production of the human voice is analogous 
to the production of a violin tone. In the violin 
the faint initial tone made by the vibration of the 
string is reinforced by the vibration of the air con- 
tained in the violin box. The result is the charac- 
teristic violin tone. So in the human voice. The 
contact of the air exhaled from the lungs against 



218 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

the vocal chords causes them to vibrate, producing 
the initial note. This initial note, reinforced by 
the vibration of the air contained jn the cavities of 
the pharynx, mouth and naso-pharynx, constitutes 
the normal human voice. (See A, B, C, Figs. I, 2 
and 3). Furthermore, just as the character of the 
violin tone depends mainly upon the size and shape 
of the violin box, so the quality of the human voice 
is determined by the size and shape of the resanonce 
cavities. 

Referring to Fig. 1, F shows the point where, 
through vibration of the vocal chords, the initial 
tone is produced. A, B and . C show the three 
resonance cavities in normal position. The air in 
those cavities vibrating in unison with the pitch of 
the tone produced by the vocal chords constitutes 
the normal tone. The position of the resonance 
chambers shown in Fig. 1 is possible only where 
there is complete relaxation of the vocal apparatus. 
Any muscular effort — any attempt to make the 
tone by voluntary muscular contraction — at once 
causes displacement of the parts, shutting off or 
reducing the size of certain resonance cavities and 
causing faulty and disagreeable qualities of voice. 

Fig. 2 shows a common departure from the nor- 
mal. Here, through the lifting of the soft palate 
(D, Fig. 2 and 3). the entrance to the resonance 
cavity of the naso-pharynx is entirely closed. The 
air contained in this large space cannot, then, vi- 
brate in unison with the pitch of the vocal chords, 
and the onlv reinforcement to the initial tone is that 
afforded by the resonance of the mouth and 



220 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

pharynx. The tone, therefore, becomes hard, thin 
and unsympathetic. This fault is often associated 
with another, shown in Fig. 3. Here the soft 
palate is raised, thus shutting off the naso-pharynx, 
and at the same time the larynx (F) and the tongue 
(E) are lowered. This increases the size of the 
mouth cavity, making up partially for the loss of 
the nasal resonance by imparting to the tone depth 
and power. Such action of the vocal apparatus is, 
however, entirely abnormal. The tone produced is 
forced and unnatural, and must in the end lead to 
irreparable injury. 

This fault of enlarging the mouth cavity by rais- 
ing soft palate and lowering tongue is the most 
common and most insidious vice of singers. For 
by a strange fatality the effect upon the singer (who 
cannot under any circumstances hear his own voice 
critically) is that of greater brilliance and power. 
Moreover, many vocal teachers ("voice specialists,'' 
"tone builders'' and others, mainly "blind, leaders 
of the blind") have deliberately taught this per- 
nicious practice, and thereby ruined thousands of 
voices; which, without any ''cultivation", would 
have remained pure, sweet and expressive. It is 
safe to say that under the systems of vocal instruc- 
tion (?) heretofore in vogue more voices were in- 
jured than were benefited. 

Figs. 4 and 5. show a direct view into the throat. 
Fig. 4 shows the normal position in tone produc- 
tion. The throat is here entirely relaxed, anc 
through the downward position of the soft palate 
(see also Fig. 1, D) the nasal cavity is open to the 




% 2" 
& a 



$ 3 




222 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

vibrations of the vocal chords. Fig. 5 corresponds 
to Fig. 3, and shows the wide open throat position 
which produces the flat, hollow, brassy quality so 
often heard. 

The Action of the throat in tone production is a 
most complicated process, and one that has only 
quite recently been understood by physiologists. 
The subject cannot be treated here in detail; nor is 
it necessary. For the practical student there is but 
one principle to be borne in mind; and the import- 
ance of this principle cannot be overestimated. 

For perfect tone the throat must be entirely re- 
laxed. Any muscular contraction causes displace- 
ment, imparting to the tone false and undesirable 
qualities. 

But quite as important as the function of the 
throat is the action of the breathing apparatus in 
tone production. For a more extended treatise on 
the respiration the reader is referred to the chapter 
by the writer on Breathing and Beauty. The exer- 
cises given in that chapter will be found valuable in 
the cultivation of tone. The important point to 
remember is that forcible expulsion of the breath 
is not only useless but ruinous to the tone. The 
one thing necessary is a steady stream of air, un- 
forced and unimpeded, flowing against the vocal 
chords. Force applied here is as absurd as force 
applied to the violin bow. 

In vital breathing, as explained in Breathing and 
Beauty, the entire thorax should expand with the 
inhalation and collapse with the exhaled air. In 
tone production, however, there is a gentle resist- 



VOICE AS AN ELEMENT OF BEAUTY. 223 

ance by the diaphragm to this expulsion. This re- 
sistance of the diaphragm is felt in sighing, sobbing, 
groaning and whispering, as well as in song and 
speech. In all these acts it will be observed that 
the chest wall is entirely relaxed. This flexibility 
of the chest wall is a prime requisite for normal 
tone. Breathing exercises which involve a rigid 
or overfilled chest, Ihowever, destroy this flexibility 
of the chest walls; and, once lost, it is seldom re- 
gained. This rigidity of the chest is a fatal obstacle 
to good 'tone. 

It may be remarked in passing that stuttering, 
stammering, "registers,'' aphonia, or loss of voice 
(frequently) and many other vocal defects are 
caused by 'or complicated with this condition of 
chest rigidity. The action of the respiratory appa- 
ratus for normal tone is identical with that of sigh- 
ing, and as effortless. 

Although the faults of voice are legion, with very 
few exceptions, they have but one cause, and that 
is excessive muscular action. If the voice is thin, 
nasal, throaty, hard, hollow or metallic, the fault "is 
probably the contraction of some of the throat mus- 
cles; while stammering, stuttering and pseudo- 
aphasia, or inability to pronounce certain words, are 
usually associated with undue contraction of the 
breathing apparatus. Hoarseness may come from 
either one of these causes; or may be due to catarrh 
of the tnucous membrane. Indeed, all those faults 
of voice are likely to be complicated by catarrh. . 

In the treatment of the defective voice the first 
consideration is the general health. Attention 



224 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

should t>e given to diet, bathing, exercise and rest. 
The importance of the depurating organs in reliev- 
ing a catarrhal condition of the mucous membrane 
should be remembered. By Turkish or vapor baths 
and by the morning cold sponge or plunge the skin 
should be kept active. Deep, full breathing (see 
Breathing and Beauty) will help the lungs to do 
their part in the great work of elimination. By a 
proper dietary, or, if necessary, by enemata, the 
function of the bowels may be regulated, while by 
free water drinking between meals and sufficient 
exercise the kidneys are encouraged to do their 
work. The catarrhal mucous membranes, thus re- 
lieved of their vicarious function of depuration, will 
recover tone. Vaporized vasalene applied to the 
parts by a suitable spray will prove a most effective 
local measure in the relief of catarrh and inflamma- 
tion of the mucous membrane. The "H. C." vasa- 
lene Spray and Remedy are as well adapted to this 
purpose as anything I know. 

\ Proper carriage of the body is essential to normal 
breathing, and, therefore, to proper tone. The ex- 

. ercises for pose and breathing given in Breathing 
and Beauty have thus a direct bearing upon the de- 
velopment of tone. 

Remembering that all faults of voice are caused 
by abnormal muscular action, and that the one re- 
quirement for a perfect tone is relaxation, the exer- 
cises given herewith should be practiced with the 
greatest care. They in no wise resemble the de- 
vices resorted to by the voice "specialists," "tone 
builders'' and "placers." Some of them, however, 



VOICE AS AN ELEMENT OE BEAUTY. 22S 

have been found useful by the few conscientious 
vocal teachers known to the writer, to whom they 
were gladly imparted. 

EXERCISES. 

All the exercises given in Breathing and Beauty 
have a direct bearing upon the voice. The most 
important of these for the general use of vocal stu- 
dents and others who would cultivate a pure tone 
are the exercises for position and for complete, un- 
forced breathing. 

Of the exercises given herewith, Nos. I, 2 and 3 
are suitable for general practice. The others are 
selected from exercises prescribed by the writer 
in the treatment of a wide range of vocal defects — 
stammering, stuttering, aphonia, pseudo aphasia, 
broken voices, &c. It should be remembered that 
these latter exercises are intended not for general 
practice, but to eradicate certain faults, or to im- 
part to the voice certain desirable qualities. 

Exercise No. 1 : — 

Lying flat upon the back or reclining easily, take 
a long, deep, quiet breath. Then, without holding 
it, exhale to whispered "sh,'' ias in the word "hush," 
until the breath is exhausted. Use only enough 
force to make a faintly audible "sh.'' After prac- 
ticing this exercise lying or reclining, stand erect, 
weight forward, chest up, head back, and repeat. 
Don't try to see how Ions: or how loud you can 
make the "sh.'' Think only how softly and easily 
you can do 'it — how little effort you can use in 
doing it. 



226 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

Exercise No. 2: — 

Sitting or reclining at ease, take a quiet breath 
and exhale to soft hum on medium pitch, until 
breath is exhausted. In a soft, gentle hum the 
position of the organs is necessarily the correct one 
for tone. So the practice of this exercise is most 
important. In this exercise the only point to be 
considered is ease. Don't listen to the hum. Just 
try how softly and gently you can hum. 

After a little practice on the hum, try combin- 
ing it with the closed vowels "ee'' and "00'' (m-ee, 
m-00), being careful not to change the quality of 
the tone in passing from the "nr' sound to the 
vowel. Finally, try to combine the open vowels 
"ah" and "aw" with "m" (m-ah, m-aw). As stated, 
the vocal position durig the hum is the right one 
one for tone, and by combining this with the vowel 
sounds the throat will gradually learn to remain 
passive during tone production. 

The difficult point in this exercise is the change 
from the hum to the vowel sound. As the mouth 
opens to form the vowel, "ee,"' "00," "ah" or "aw," 
the entire position of the throat is apt to be de- 
ranged. This can be prevented only by extreme 
care and gentleness. The one thought in the prac- 
tice of this exercise should be ease — the reduction 
of effort. 

Exercise No. 3: — 

Walk easily up and down the room, imitating the 
gait of one who, through weakness, fatigue or in- 
toxication, is greatly relaxed. Use only enough 



VOICE AS AN ELEMENT OF BEAUT* 227 

muscular force to preserve the equilibrium. Now, 
relaxing also the muscles of the face and throat, 
hum very gently a scale or arpeggio in the middle 
of the voice. Be careful not to listen to the 'voice. 
Don't try to make tones. That is just what you 
must not do. Try, rather, to see how gently, how 
easily you can hum. The difficulty, and the only 
difficulty, in this exercise is the tendency to use the 
throat action, especially on high notes. Guard 
against this by humming the upper tones very 
gently, remembering that the one object of these 
exercises is to eliminate effort. 

Finally, moving about in the same manner of ex- 
aggerated relaxation, sing softly the words of some 
simple song, thinking only of the ease of delivery 
and not of the tone. 

Exercise No. 4: — 

For this exercise a breathing tube, such as the 
Wilhide Exhaler, is necessary. Lie flat on the 
back, hands resting lightly upon abdomen. Re- 
move both caps from the Wilhide Exhaler, and take 
same between the teeth. Now, inhale gently 
through the exhaler in little sips, and note that with 
each sip there is a gentle, but sudden expansion at 
the waist. Then exhale in a gentle, continuous 
stream through the tubes. After mastering the 
movement while lying down, stand erect, in posi- 
tion, and inhale in the same manner. 

This is a most valuable exercise for imparting 
depth, volume and reach to voices which, although 
perhaps soft and flexible, are lacking in power. 



228 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

Exercise No. 5: — 

Sit facing the light, open the mouth, and hold a 
small hand mirror so as to command a view of the 
throat, similar to that shown in Figs. 4 and 5. 
Now, relax all the features of the face until they 
assume a sleepy expression, and note that the throat 
at the same time alters its shape so as to correspond 
to Fig. 4. This relaxed position of the throat al- 
lows the soft palate to droop, and opens the naso- 
pharynx so that the air contained therein may vi- 
brate in unison with the vibration of the vocal 
cords. Practise this until you can at will assume 
the relaxed throat position. Then, still looking in 
the mirror, to be sure that no throat effort is made, 
exhale the breath gently without allowing the 
throat muscles to act. After some practice on this 
exhale to the vowel "ah" very gently. If you no- 
tice the slightest inclination to> throat action, know 
thereby that you are using too much effort and re- 
solve to make the next "ah" with less. 

Exercise No. 6: — 

This exercise is the same as No. 5, except that 
instead of the mirror the hand upon the front of 
the throat is used as a guide to detect any move- 
ment of the parts. If movement is observed, too 
much effort is being used. In normal production 
of tone there is no movement of the throat. 

Exercises Nos. 5 and 6 are not recommended for 
general practice, as they tend to make the student 
self-conscious. For those, however, whose voices 
have been strained by overuse, incorrect methods 
or pernicious teaching, some more direct treatment 



VOICE AS AN ELEMENT OF BEAUTY. 22» 

is necessary than that provided by the other exer- 
cises given, and for such the practice of Exercises 
5 and 6 will be found of immense value. 

There is an intimate connection between the 
quality of the voice and the mental state. Hatred, 
anger, jealousy make the voice harsh, metallic or 
choked. Worry or excitement render the voice 
uncertain in pitch and quality, and sometimes lead 
to stammering or stuttering. Mental depression 
is indicated by a monotonous hollow or guttural 
tone. On the other hand, health, joy, love, kind- 
liness impart to the voice all its most desirable qual- 
ities. A naturally beautiful voice is seldom found 
except in one possessed of a healthy, loving and 
happy temperament. In the cultivation of the 
voice a most important point, and one usually 
overlooked, is the mental attitude of the student. 
Mental poise, firmness, self-command, intelligence 
and kindliness will inevitably impart to the voice 
their respective characteristics; while unwise or evil 
habits of mind, such as anger, hate, jealousy, worry, 
excitement, hurry or animality will, in time, ruin 
the most perfect voice. 

To conclude this very fragmentary and incom- 
plete chapter, the writer would reiterate that in the 
production of the normal vocal tone, either in song 
or speech, no conscious effort is necessary. Faults 
of voice are due to deformity, to catarrh or to> mus- 
cular contraction. The first cause is rare, the sec- 
ond — catarrh — may be removed by proper hygienic 
treatment; the third, faulty muscular contraction, 
conquered by practice of exercises such as givem 



tbe Problem of Physical Beamy. 

By A. B. Jamison, M. D. 

The spirit of man is a conscious dynamic centre, 
clothed with a physical body, through which it 
operates.- The operations of the human organism 
are both involuntary and voluntary. This is true 
of mental acts as well as physical. In all functional 
processes there is a corresponding loss of vitality, 
which loss should be intelligently retrieved or 
made good. Every person that has any sense of 
pride in a healthful physical apearance and culture 
should make a thoughtful study of the relation 
and ratio' between physiological expenditure and 
income. How are you going to* replace the vitality 
you spend? 

In dress the majority of people, so far as it is 
within their means, supply themselves with useful 
and beautiful garments. They feel better and hap- 
pier for the care they devote to a becoming ward- 
robe. Why do they not have the same care of the 
body? The skin of the body is its external dress, 
and should be fresh, clean and rosy \hued, over a 
well rounded body. The human being should think 
as much of his body as of his wardrobe. Beautiful 
clothes, beautiful complexion and beautiful con- 
tour have very aesthetic relations, and delicate 
compliments are exchanged between them. 



232 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

Well fitting clothes and a well shaped body are 
companions that would, fare well together were it 
not for a third party, to which they are related and 
dependent — in the same way in which the immortal 
ego needs its support — namely, the alimentary 
canal, of which the exterior of the body is an ex- 
tension and elaboration. 

Man, as an upright alimentary canal, has five 
senses, four limbs, many desires and habits, that 
from infancy till, say, twenty years of age, both 
rule and serve him. But the average man is con- 
tent to remain a conscious alimentary canal. It 
seems to dominate the hardly awakened spirit, till 
the canal, of its own accord, or through accident, 
lies down never to rise again. Fascinated by ex- 
ternal things and their capability of giving him 
agreeable sensations, man, as naturally constituted, 
ignores the finer and truer promptings coming 
from his inner world, from the centre of his being. 
So his Canal is freighted with goods that sail down 
till they reach their destination, and are unloaded 
to feed this or that desire of the body. 

Very near the alimentary apparatus is that pe- 
culiar and wonderfully sympathetic mechanism 
called the nervous system, which presides over the 
involuntary movements of the body and mind. 
Learned men have thought that the soul had its 
seat in the large plexus of nerves just behind 
the stomach. Others, again, call the region of the 
stomach the vital-soul centre, the region of the 
pelvis the racial-soul centre (i. e., reproductive cen- 



THE PROBLEM OF PHYSICAL BEAUTY. 288 

tre) and the region of the brain the rational- 
soul centre; and they say that the rational-soul 
centre should govern the other two. All three cen- 
tres are phases or modes of the spiritual-soul cen- 
tre. The lower soul centres act as large root cen- 
tres to> the tree of life, and keep the functions of 
the body in operation, even when the big police- 
man — the cerebro spinal system of nerves — is 
paralyzed by injury, narcotics, &c, or is in the em- 
brace of Morpheus. 

External objects engross the attention of the 
child and the average man, as though they were in 
a kindergarten. Therefore, is each content to let the 
subordinate policemen and engineers of bis tem- 
ples guard and run it, while the real inner owner 
and occupant remains asleep and inactive in the 
inner court, protected from the shocks of the outer 
world, just as the coverings of seeds and nuts pro- 
tect their life centre. From the quiet, silent, finer, 
innermost nature of man emanate the best sugges- 
tions of desire and choice of nourishment, so that 
normal nutrition may not be disturbed, but may be 
properly maintained. That inner and higher na- 
ture prompts man to eat to live, while, per contra, 
the external and lower nature urges him to live to 
eat. You cannot expect the same conduct of a 
usurping servitor as of the master. The true owner 
of the human temple should assume control. Judg- 
ing from the average human life, one would sup- 
pose the occupant was dispossessed and the me- 
nials were devoting their time to riotous living. 



234 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

The two lower centres in most human beings do 
not seem to be controlled by that supreme centre 
encased within the skull. Whenever the brain 
counterpoises the solar plexus and the pelvic re- 
gion it will suggest the proper liquids and solids es- 
sential to the normal nourishment of the body. 
The lower soul centres, or roots of the human tree, 
should be trained to send their forces to the brain 
lobes, that are encased in a shell like the kernel in 
a seed or nut. 

The more we study the subject of physiological 
nutrition, and comprehend the manner and direc- 
tion of the expenditure of the electrical and mag- 
netic forces of our organism, the more shall we 
realize that the upper lobes of the brain demand 
their full share of culture, along with the rest of 
the body. Many think that the development of the 
muscles of the chest, shoulders and arms is suf- 
ficient for the attainment of true physical culture. 

People that so understand this put in a lot of 
that so undertsand physical culture put in a lot of 
faithful daily work with dumbbells, exercisers, 
muscle beaters, &c, in the hope of presenting a fine 
physical form, which latter is a noble ambition so 
far as it goes. Most of them, however, fail to com- 
prehend that the brain, alimentary canal and pelvic 
organs must not be ignored in this worthy ambi- 
tion; that they merit, in fact, more attention than 
do muscles. They are. indeed, the three important 
centres of human energy, and the key that fits the 
lock of physical development and beauty, if they 



THE PROBLEM OP PHYSICAL BEAUTY. 285 

are in proper order and co-ordination to* each 
other — the brain being the collector and distrib- 
utor, and not the two lower centres, which latter 
is unfortunately so> often the case with the would- 
be disciples of physical culture. 

Pride in physical beauty, as in fine clothes, is 
an indication of aesthetic brain energy, yet, not- 
withstanding these and similar virtues of brain en- 
dowment, a few vices will stunt its growth, in the 
same way that you stunt the tree from which you 
take the gum to make turpentine. The brain be- 
comes listless to the beauties of life in the ratio 
that the stomach and pelvic organs are permitted 
to waste and disturb the higher life energies. Licen- 
tious habits rob the brain of new and better 
thoughts and the body of vitality. It is the sap 
taken from the root of the tree, the sap that should 
go to the topmost branches; therefor the brain 
suffers decay. Alcoholic and other stimulants, to- 
bacco in all modes of its use, narcotics, overeating, 
loss of sleep, &c, are vices whose pictures are seen 
in the face, observed in the tone of the voice, and 
known by the language of the victim, whose rav- 
ages and vestiges are unchangeable by any amount 
of physical exercise. Nature will restore when all 
her laws are obeyed, but one vice is a weak link in 
the chain of physical beauty and mental strength. 
No one is likely to shave one side of his face and 
omit the other; or to take great care of the arms 
of a topcoat and neglect the rent m the back. But 
how is it with the disciples of physical culture, who 



236 WOMANLY BEAUTY, 

show us hard muscles on their arms, yet have some 
vice or vices damaging other organs or parts of 
their body? If one portion is worthy of special at- 
tention the whole organism should be equally 
worthy of as much care, so that all the organs may 
act in proper harmony with one another. 



£are of the Heck. 

By STEUvA Stuart. 

The perfect neck in woman is white, smooth, 
pliant and well rounded. It should be slightly- 
larger at the base, melting by delicate curves into 
the firm ivory of the shoulders. 

Artists state that perfect necks and throats are 
rare among women. A comparison of the paintings 
of the feminine neck by the old masters and as seen 
in its natural state to-day shows a surprising differ- 
ence in outline. 

Many a pretty, girlish face surmounts a thin, un- 
lovely neck, and many a youthful matron exhibits 
in evening gown a throat apparently a decade in ad- 
vance of her face in age. 

The cause is not far to seek. For nearly a quar- 
ter of a century woman's neck has been imprisoned 
in stocks — not the wooden punishment of Puritan 
ancestry, but the stocks imposed by a tyrant fash- 
ion. Their origin is said to be due to a style set by 
royalty to conceal a blemish. However this may be, 
fair young necks have, during the period of imma- 
turity, been snugly encased in high, tight, imprison- 
ing bands and debarred throughout the daytime, at 
least, of their right to growth and development. 

The high collar stands sponsor for many an im- 
poverished throat, scraggy neck, flabby chin and 
dull, brown, lifeless tissues. 

Lack of food, light and exercise will rob of its 
birthright to health and beauty every animate thing, 
including the face and throat, 



238 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

"The blood is the life." Deprived of proper cir- 
culation, the tissues shrink from lack of sustenance 
and the muscles of the neck become flaccid from 
disuse. Double chins are attributable more io re- 
laxed muscles than to excess of fat. 

The question is often asked, "Why is it that 
singers, actresses and society women have such, 
beautiful throats and necks?" 

The answer is simple. Their vocation, their 
habits of life give to the neck what it needs — free- 
dom and exercise. Through vocal exercise and low 
neck dressing the throats of singers retain their 
youthful fulness, whiteness and firmness until late 
in life. 

A woman's throat succumbs first, usually, to the 
touch of Time. This is not so with the peasant 
classes of foreign countries who wear their apparel 
open at the throat. 

The fiat of fashion has lately decreed transparent 
stocks. An echo from Paris even whispers of collar- 
less gowns. What consternation in the ranks of 
angular, undeveloped and shrivelled femininity this 
fashion will create! They clutch their rigid neck- 
bands in a last desperate protest. 

Every year fashion and physical culture are com- 
ing closer. They will soon clasp hands and forget 
the old hostility. This is as it should be. Fashion 
can learn much from health culture. The latter can 
gain many points from fashion. 

The healthy dowdy and the stylish physical wreck 




MASSAGE FOR THE NECK. 
239 



240 -WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

will then cease to present their startling contrasts 
and merge into consummate feminine beauty, 
clothed not only in its radiant health and loveliness, 
but garbed in the exquisite, hygienic creations of the 
intelligent modiste. 

Had fashion and health joined forces earlier the 
starved, wrinkled, pendulous throats and emaciated 
necks which annoy so many women would not have 
been so largely in evidence. 

Whether fashion in neck dressing be high or low 
there are times when all women want to possess a 
beautiful neck. Any woman under sixty may great- 
ly improve her neck if she will it and will work 
for it. 

For the rounding out of deficient curves and the 
restoration of flabby tissues no implement ever in- 
vented is so adequate as Dr. Forrest's Massage 
Roller. This little toilet device should be on the 
dressing table of every woman in the land. Every 
revolution of its rubber wheels unrolls the secret 
of health and beauty. 

To develop or restore the neck one should wear 
soft, low, open neck dressing whenever possible. 
The transparent stocks of filmy lace, lightly wired, 
afford ventilation for dress occasions, and at home 
the low collar or kimono lend sufficient aid to the 
woman in quest of beauty. 

Girls with painfully thin necks, who desire to 
replace ugly depressions with coveted adipose tissue 
and protuberant bones and unbeautiful angles with 
graceful curves, will find a trusted ally in Dr. For- 



THE CARE OF THE NECK. 241 

est's massage roller, combined with a pure skin food. 

The hand that wields the roller must be a per- 
sistent one. Spasmodic efforts at beauty culture 
are of no avail. Every night and morning must the 
little implement be called into requisition. 

Roll lightly over the collarbones and adjacent 
hollows a hundred times, if necessary, twice daily, 
and do not get discouraged if no improvement is 
seen in a month. 

What takes time to come takes time to cure! 
Every day the wasted muscles, starved hollows and 
depleted tissues will quiver with new vitality under 
the energizing tracks of the rubber wheels. All the 
deep tissues will awaken to life at the call of the 
quickening blood. Hope replaces incredulity, and 
conviction follows hope as the depleted tissues fill 
and round with the life current. 

Light, steady, persistent movements across the 
muscles develop. Heavy downward pressure carries 
blood from the parts, and thus reduces flesh. 

The brown streak shown on many necks is the 
result of coloring matter in the collar lining com- 
bined with perspiration. It also is caused by the 
close confinement and friction of rigid neckbands. 
All collars should be faced with whitesilk or cotton. 
To remove this streak anoint the neck with Health 
Culture Skin Food. This will soften the tissue, 
relax the pores and withdraw the minute particles 
of dust and coloring matter, which are unaffected 
by soap and water. Let this emollient remain on 
for five minutes. Rub the neck gently with a soft 




EXERCISE N( 



242 







EXERCISE NO. 2. 



243 




EXERCISE NO. 



244 




EXERCISE NO. 4. 



246 WOMANLY BEAUTY. ^ 

bit of linen. Then with pure soap and warm water 
wash off the cream thoroughly. Rinse the neck in 
cold water to close the pores and impart tone to the 
tissues. The flesh is now in proper condition for 
massage, the most important step in the process of 
beautifying and developing. Roll lightly, evenly 
around the neck with the massage roller, the right 
side with the left hand and vice versa. Continue 
this for ten minutes. This should be done every 
night. For double chin, roll downward, with some- 
what heavier pressure. 

After the blood has been brought to the surface 
a myriad of eager, hungry little pores are ready for 
increased sustenance. Some more Health-Culture 
skin food should then be rubbed into the skin and 
left on all night. Wash the neck in cold water in 
the morning, as the food will have then been en- 
tirely absorbed, and roll for ten minutes again. In 
a month a great transformation should be apparent. 

To supplement this treatment of the neck, the 
exercises as illustrated in the cuts given will be 
found efficacious. 

No. i — To strengthen the throat muscles. Stretch 
the head back as far as possible. 

No. 2 — Let the head fall forward by its own 
weight upon the chest. 

No. 3 — Sidewise movement to right. 

No. 4 — Sidewise movement to left. Repeat all 
movements ten times. Then roll the head gently 
about ten times, very slowly, combining all these 
movements. 



Ulbat mr$. Cangtrp $ay$ and Does. 

By Harriet Hubbard AyBr. 

The proposition is advanced that the conditions 
of modern life are such as to make it necessary that 
special attention should be paid to the care of the 
body. And we find that, almost without exception, 
the men and women who are doing great work in 
the world are attentive to the care of their bodies. 
The fact that many prominent and influential peo- 
ple are actively interested in the intelligent care of 
the body has been, perhaps, the strongest influence 
in creating the present general interest in the sub- 
ject. Health culture has become fashionable, not 
because it is a "fad," but because it has been proven 
to be at once a necessity and an advantage. 

Physical vitality and attractiveness is, of course, 
a most excellent qualification in any line of activity. 
But of all professions it is in acting that physical 
beauty is most important. A man or woman to 
succeed on the stage must possess a strong activity 
and usually a beautiful physique. The stage people 
realize this, and of all professions they are the most 
intelligent and assiduous in applying such measures 
as will insure strength, activity, grace and attrac- 
tiveness. . 

Mrs. Langtry, one of the most prominent women 

(247) 



248 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

on the stage, is a marked example of what has just 
been said. As seen in New York recently, Mrs. 
Langtry seems as youthful and active and far more 
magnetic than when she first earned the title "The 
Jersey Lily," and that's longer ago than any of us 
care to remember. 

In an interview with Mrs. Ayer, for the World, 
Mrs. Langtry talked very freely and frankly on the 
matter. Among other things she said : — 

"The profoundest secret of my keeping young is 
that I have learned to keep my thoughts young. 

Of course I do things. The fact that I believe 
in the superior force of mind over matter does not 
blind me to the truth that the foundation of every 
successful life is good health ; that the keystone of 
physical beauty is perfect physical health. 

"A sick woman cannot be a beautiful woman, nor 
can she be anything but what we English call a 
poor-spirited woman. 

"To a great extent a woman's beauty is measured 
by her vitality — by her health. 

"Work, Sunshine, Exercise, Water and Soap, 
Plain, Nourishing Food, Lots of Fresh Air and a 
Happy, Contented Spirit — there, as you say, 'honest 
and true,' is my working rule for youth, youthful 
spirits and youthful looks. 

"I'll tell you, if you like, what I do in one day. 

"Shall it be a matinee day, for then I work harder, 
of course? Yes? Very well. 

"At eight o'clock my maid brings me a cup of 
chocolate or coffee, rarely the latter, and a bit of 







Burr-Mclntosb Photo 



MRS. HUGO DE BATH (Lily Langtry) 

24? 



250 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

toasted bread — just a wee bit of a breakfast — which 
I take in bed. I read my letters, glance at the pa- 
pers,and then I take my cold bath — oh, yes, quite 
icy cold — a full bath. I love it and should not at all 
feel fit to work or play without it. 

"Then I dress leisurely and I usually do a few 
very simple little physical culture exercises. I al- 
ways do this one" (and here the Jersey Lily, gowned 
elaborately as she was, stood up quite erect and, 
swinging her arms above her head at full length 
with a forward movement and without bending her 
knees, but using her hips as a pivot, touched the toes 
of her embroidered slippers without any apparent 
effort). 

"I know I am all right so long as I can do that one 
exercise without any trouble," she said. 

"I dress for the day — I am not at all a woman of 
the negligee habit. I don't believe in dressing 
gowns in working hours. 

"It is now about ten o'clock usually, and I put on 
my hat and start out for a walk. 

"I wear low-heeled walking lace or buttoned 
shoes and a short skirt. 

"I think nothing of a ten mile walk, nor, in fact, 
of one of twenty miles, but I do not walk against 
time. I keep up a pretty steady little pace for two 
hours, and when I get back I am ready for a nice 
breakfast. 

"It is now about ten o'clock, and I usually ask a 
friend, some one of my delightful American women 
friends, to second breakfast, or, as we say, luncheon. 



WHAT MRS. LANGTRY SAYS AND DOES. 251 

"Then I am off to the theatre for the matinee. 

"That means an afternoon of concentration and of 
hard work. Don't misunderstand me — I love it — 
but it is work in the sense that it requires the appli- 
cation of all one's best strength and all one's intel- 
lectual force. I am never so happy as when I am 
giving out my strength in my professional work. 

"After the matinee, home again. A quiet chat 
and dinner with a friend to keep me company. No, 
I do not like to eat alone. I'm a very sociable per- 
son, and I dearly love my friends. I eat a simple 
dinner of four or five courses, very few made dishes. 

"After dinner, again to the theatre, and then home 
or occasionally away with some friends for a little 
bite of supper. 

"My night bath consists of a hot bath — a real soap 
scrub. Oh, yes, face and all. Three or four min- 
utes' deep breathing and physical culture exercises, 
then to bed. 

"I sleep with windows wide open and all heat 
turned off. We can't get too much fresh air. And 
I am scarcely conscious after I touch my pillow. 
There is no sleep so sweet, so refreshing, so youth- 
retaining, as that which follows a busy day spent 
in happy, exhilarating work. 

"I wear very light clothing. I think it a mistake 
to be burdened by the weight of clothes, and if one's 
circulation is perfect one does not need a lot of 
flannels. 

"The best cosmetic is a contented mind combined 
with a wholesome, normal life. 



252 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

"I really think," said Mrs. Langtry, "the Ameri- 
can woman has little to learn from her English sis- 
ters concerning a most important factor in her 
appearance, her carriage. But I candidly think we 
all, English and American, should estimate at its full 
value the importance of a correct carriage in the 
personal impression made by each woman. 

"I have seen English women with lovely faces 
who were really never called beautiful because of 
a lackidaisical walk or an untidy way of holding 
themselves. 

"On the other hand, I have seen many French 
women — women of incomparable charm — who had 
not one really beautiful feature, but such grace, such 
poise, that they were admired extravagantly and 
deservedly. 

"American women, for whom I have the greatest 
affection — or perhaps I should say one type of 
American women — have the most amusing way of 
affecting new ways of walking. 

"There is really just one way for a woman to 
carry herself, no matter what her nationality. 
Now," said Mrs. Langtry, "ask your women readers 
to stand naturally. I will not condemn any one 
until the test is made. Now, if I were speaking to 
a number of women I should say/If you are stand- 
ing correctly you can when erect rise from your 
heels without bending your body forward from the 
ankles or bending from the waist.' 

"To stand correctly, recollect that the chest must 



WHAT MRS. LANGTRY SAYS AND DOES. 253 

be raised. No woman can have any distinction who 
lets her chest drop, or, as we say, cave in. 

"Stand erect, incline the body rather forward, but 
do not bend it. 

"Make the inclining movement from the ankle; 
do not bend from the waist. 

"The sway-backed or stoop- shouldered woman 
invites serious ills. Stoop shoulders lessen the lung 
expansion, weaken the spine and crowd the heart 
into a space much too small for it. 

"Standing with the stomach thrown forward and 
the small of the back unnaturally curved is equally 
bad. Many men and women walk in this fashion 
and think they are in perfect poise. In this manner 
of holding one's self grace and beauty are thrown to 
the winds and the health will be injured if it is per- 
sisted in. The muscles of the abdomen are strained 
and the spine is apt to develop chronic trouble 
through curvature. 

"To stand correctly the arms should be held easily 
at the side, chin erect and stomach in. It should be 
possible to drop a line straight from the ear, shoul- 
der, hip and instep. The feet in standing should be 
placed heels together on the same line, making an 
angle of about sixty degrees, the weight falling on 
the balls of the feet. 

Don't throw the shoulders too far back — that is 
a mistake frequently made. Stand up straight. At 
that order four women out of five will lift their 
shoulders up and back, and at the same time throw 
out their chests and stomachs. 



254 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

"Keep the straight line idea in your heads and 
you will have no trouble in standing correctly. 

"Sometimes the shoulder-droop is occasioned by 
ill health. In that event nothing should be spared 
to restore the energy. Body braces only tend to 
make more weak that which is already weakened, 
and should never be used except in extreme cases. 

"Walking is the best exercise for women. It 
brings into play every muscle without straining, and 
is one that poor women as well as rich can take. 

"Do I approve of horseback riding and golf? Yes, 
indeed. I ride daily in London, but, if women only 
knew it, the best aid to a good figure and complexion 
is a brisk walk in the sunlight. It wouldn't be a 
bad plan for men also to walk more than they do, 
although they are taking more to pedestrianism than 
formerly. 

"It is difficult to give any specified number of 
miles for women to walk. A good rule is to walk 
until she is just short of being tired, and always to 
walk in proper dress, no trailing skirts, thin shoes 
nor feather trimmed hats. 

"The girl who is in the habit of walking is easily 
mistress of the drawing room graces. She is free 
in movements because she has had plenty of the best 
exercise. 

"We are in one way the most fortunate women 
since the days of the Greek health and beauty seek- 
ing epoch. 

"Never, I suppose, since that golden era, when 
the nation made the health and the beauty of its 



WHAT MRS. LANGTRY SAYS AND DOES. 255 

race and its perpetuation of the highest importance, 
has so much intelligence, so much positive genius 
been devoted to the ways and means of attaining 
perpetual youth, which is the synonym for perpet- 
ual beauty. 

"I don't care what a woman's circumstances are, 
she cannot look her best unless she has learned to 
breathe correctly. The importance of correct 
breathing can't be overestimated. 

"After all, when you really reflect on what it 
means physiologically, respiration is the most im- 
portant function in life. 

"Until a woman has learned that her spirits, her 
health, her amiability and her good looks deoend 
upon her using her lungs to their fullest extent, she 
has not learned her most important life lesson. 

"It doesn't make any difference as to the woman's 
condition, her environment, her social position or 
her daily obligations. Without money and without 
price she can learn the surest way to acquire a clear 
skin, bright eyes and a youthful face. 

"She can make a strong woman out of a weak one, 
a fascinating and companionable wife or sweetheart 
out of a tired, listless, nervous, unhappy creature. 

"No matter what a woman's ambition may be 
she can reach the goal of her hopes more quickly 
if she brings to her efforts superb physical strength. 

"I believe in the importance of pure food simply 
cooked, but pure fresh air in unlimited quantities 
and knowing how to fill the lungs with oxygen not 
only while doing breathing exercises, but every 



256 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

moment of one's life, waking or sleeping, is the vital 
acquirement. 

"Of course, no woman can breathe properly in a 
tightly laced corset. I am horrified when I think 
of the way in which I used to compress my waist 
before I learned how to use my lungs. 

"I look back on my pictures showing my hour- 
glass figure with positive amazement. 

"How could I ever have thought I was getting 
my share of life in those prison corsets ! The great- 
est difficulty the woman who has worn the old- 
fashioned, tightly laced corset encounters in her 
effort to breathe correctly is through the impairment 
of the waist and abdominal muscles which have been 
for years unused. 

"It takes persistent practice in correct breathing 
to bring these weakened muscles back again to a 
normal state. 

"Of course, correct breathing dooms the tight 
corset forevermore. 

• "Deep breathing should not be a matter of five 
minutes a day. It should be continuous, but until 
one has learned how it is better to make a practice 
of regularly going through several deep breathing 
movements two or three times a day. 

"Once a correct breather always a correct 
breather, because the lungs, once used to plenty of 
fresh air, rebel at the slightest restriction and the 
'discomfort of not being 'able to breathe' brings its 
own remedy." 



fieaitb and Beauty 4$ a Profession. 

An Editorial in HEAi/fH-Cui/fURE. 

Among the qualifications of the actor or actress 
appearance is of high importance. A shrunken 
form, a new wrinkle in the face, a failure in grace, 
ease or attractiveness and the pubic begins to criti- 
cise, the applause falls off and managers look 
askance. So to the actor and actress of all people 
appearance is important. And as a means of main- 
taining and developing beauty there is to-day among 
the better class of stage people a general and well 
fixed conviction. The first class actor or actress of 
to-day pays scarcely more attention to his or her 
"stage business" than to appearance. The man 
must be strong, active, well "set up," manly and 
prepossessing. The woman must be lissome, erect, 
gracious and superbly healthy and beautiful. More- 
over, not only must they look strong, but they must 
be strong; for only a robust man or woman can 
"stand the pace" on the stage to-day. 

The old days of the easy going, roystering actor 
and the careless, bohemian actress are no more. The 
successful stage people of to-day work and think 
and study hard. They have learned by experience 
that they can get to the top and stay at the top only 
by being fine men and women, mentally and phy- 
sically. And they have learned that such mental 



258 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

and physical fitness can be gained only by health. 
Careful living and plenty of exercise is the keynote 
of the life of the modern successful actor or actress. 

"Miss Julia Marlowe is a thorough believer in 
'outdoor life,' " and she is an excellent example of 
the benefits resulting from such living. In fact, 
she is an indefatigable worker in her pursuit and 
retention of physical perfection and health. 

With her bull terrier for her only companion she 
will jog on long tramps across country, returning 
to her country home in the Catskills tired out, but 
thoroughly happy. The actress became very much 
interested in automobiling; she purchased a loco- 
mobile and very speedily acquired the mastery of 
it. On the golf links she is an energetic player, be- 
cause the game appeals to her not only as a game, 
but because it affords the opportunity she is ever 
looking for, to practice pedestrianism. 

"Miss Marlowe's appreciation of the inestimable 
value of a graceful carriage, especially on the stage, 
and of the beneficent results of walking in contrib- 
uting to the acquisition of such dates back to the 
period when she was a young and awkward girl, 
before she began her stage career. This awkward- 
ness vexed her very much indeed, and she was con- 
tinually planning physical culture exercises which 
would enable her to rid herself of this. 

'.'She finally decided on walking. She fashioned 
a peculiar sort of corset harness that fitted her very 
closely about the hips, and upon its completion 
started a series of long cross country pilgrimages 



HEALTH AND BEAUTY AS A PROFESSION. 259 

that ultimately resulted in the complete eradication 
of the shambling gait that had characterized her 
walking. Instead she had acquired the graceful 
carriage that is so distinctive of her both on and off 
the stage." 

As Elizabeth Herrick says : — 

"Draw up a recipe for health and long youth from 
the lives of the women on the stage and use it — all 
those who can. 

"The life of the women on the stage is supposed 
to be more artificial than the life of other women. 
The opinions of some of the well known actresses 
seem to contradict any such idea. 

"The longer period of youthful appearance, the 
better carriage of the body and general liveliness, 
physical and mental animation of the women on the 
stage will probably be evident to every one. Per- 
sonal experiences of various actresses show the 
contrast in their lives to that of the ordinary woman, 
and that very contrast is the key to the problem of 
preservation of health and youth. 

"Late hours are not what kill, but irregular late 
hours are. The average woman would keep fresh 
longer if she put in a great deal of the time spent 
in massaging her face and tinkering with her com- 
plexion in sleeping; then her nerves, on which her 
looks are quite as dependent as her health, would 
get perfect rest; she would come out of this sleep 
sufficiently refreshed to feel like taking some invig- 
orating outdoor exercise and so capture the health- 
ful ozone. 



260 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

"Miss Adams, for example, is of a very high 
strung and nervous temperament and would never 
have been able to do her work but for the physical 
life she has so sensibly looked after. 

"In this country her outdoor life consists of a 
simple farm life, horseback riding and gardening." 

Miss Henrietta Crosman, who is recognized as 
one of the leading actresses of the day, has this to 
say regarding the care of the body : — 

"A healthy life is the only secret to a good con- 
stitution and a symmetrical figure that I know of. 
It may be that both may be acquired by following 
certain rules, but I am inclined to think that any 
rule that does not have for its foundation a healthy 
life will not bring the desired result. 

"For myself, I am a believer in outdoor exercise 
and plenty of sleep. The latter, I think, is essential 
to good looks and youthful appearance. Hard work 
I do not consider detrimental to either health or 
appearance, provided one secures sufficient sleep at 
the same time. Ten hours is none too much after 
an exhausting performance. In the main I think 
the women of the stage take better care of them- 
selves than others do. The society woman is likely 
to take sufficient sleep, but she often neglects the 
exercise that the actress necessarily gets in her 
work, and the exercise is both mental and physical. 

"Dissipation and success are not compatible on 
the stage or in any other walk of life, therefore you 
will find successful players the most careful obser- 
vers of the rigid rules of health." 



HEALTH AND BEAUTY AS A PROFESSION. 261 

In reply to a question on this subject Blanche 
Bates, whose marked success as Cigarette in "Under 
Two Flags" and in "The Darling of the Gods" is 
proof of her ability, said : — 

"Stage rehearsal is vigorous exercise, too — three 
hours together of fast, hot work, with perspiration 
pouring down your face. But my consolation for 
this discomfort is its beneficial effect on my com- 
plexion, for you know nothing is so purifying as to 
perspire freely. 

"As to corsets — for my part I never wear them on 
the stage. I could not bear them. Of course, some 
roles have much more exercise than others and are 
some nights the spirit of emotion is more deep — 
those are the- glorious nights — but afterward you 
sleep like a child. 

"The good sleep and rest I give myself keep me 
well, and perhaps answer the question why the 
women of the stage keep youthful beyond the aver- 
age woman." 

Another well known actress, Mrs. Milton Royle, 
has this to say regarding health and success : — 

"Of course to be physically alert and mentally 
keen any woman before the public has to feel thor- 
oughly well and energetic and full of a reserve force. 
You can't run down, for not only would looks be 
impaired, but your hold on the audience lost. 

"All I do to keep myself in working trim is to lead 
a regular life. That may seem absurd for a woman 
of the stage to say, but listen : — My hours are neces- 
sarily late, so I always breakfast at 10, dine at 5.30 — ■ 



262 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

so as not to have my dinner interfere with my com- 
fort or activity — and after the performance I have 
my supper. This order of eating I follow abso- 
lutely. 

"Sometimes I diet even to the extent of never 
eating sweets while acting. 

"The danger of becoming too stout or too thin 
is not great while an actress is leading her normal, 
careful life, and if I find I am growing a trifle stout 
I walk a bit more or become a little more active in 
some way." 

The point of all this is that those whose business 
it is to keep themselves beautiful, youthful and 
magnetic find that the prime requirement for such 
qualifications is health and proper exercise; and if 
actors and actresses can retain and constantly add 
to their beauty and charm by such methods the 
lesson to those in other walks of life is plain. 



n Beamy Euncfceom 

Recently Mrs. John Barton Payne, one of the 
most aristocratic hostesses of Chicago's social set, 
gave a "beauty luncheon." 

Every guest represented some type of beauty, 
and each woman knew that the hostess considered 
her the most beautiful of her type in Chicago. 
Wealth was no consideration; talent that amounted 
to genius was at a discount, while genius, superior 
position, family, all combined, did not secure the 
coveted invitation. Only beauty, rare and perfect, 
entitled a woman to an invitation. 

When asked what was her standard of beauty Mrs. 
Payne is reported by a correspondent of the World 
to have said : — 

"I have two standards, you know. One, of the 
regular type of beauty — the almond eyes and the 
perfect profile, with a pretty figure, and the other 
some one thing so beautiful that the plainness of 
the others cannot mar it. For instance, a girl may 
have beautiful eyes and irregular features and still 
be a beauty. Or her features may be plain and her 
expression so beautiful that the features are. for- 
gotten." 

Then Mrs. Payne thought for several minutes, 
and saying, "Dare I ?" she gave the following stand- 
ard of beauty : — 

Face — A perfect oval. 

Eyes — Must be soulful, whether blue or brown. 

Forehead — Low and fair. 

Eyebrows — Straight, 'dark and sensitive. 

Eyelashes — Long and sweeping. * 



264 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

Hair — Abundant, whether dark or fair. 
Nose — Not Grecian, but straight. Retrousse pre- 
ferred. 

Mouth — Full, may be large, but must turn up at 
the corners. 

Teeth — White and even. 

Chin — Round, dainty, feminine chin absolutely 
essential. 

Ears — Well shaped, not necessarily shell-like, but 
not prominent. 

Complexion — Clear and brilliant, not of necessity 
rose-hued nor ruddy. 

Figure — Svelte figure preferred, refinement of 
outline most desirable and a splendid bearing abso- 
lutely essential. 

Arms — Fair, well rounded and smooth, but not 
"fat." 

Hands — Grace and expressiveness more essential 
than mere shape. 

Waist — A wasp waist bars any woman from the 
list. Only a normal, supple waist can be termed 
lovely. 

Foot — Well shaped and shod. 

Ankle — Only a small ankle can be called beautiful. 

"I do not care for the Grecian type of woman," 
said Mrs. Payne. "It is too cold and lifeless. I like 
the woman who is striking and magnetic and whose 
soul shines through her personality. 

"The American woman, as a composite type, lacks 
poise," continued this modern Paris. "I presume it 
is almost an impossible type in this age of high 
pressure existence, and, doubtless, vivacity and 
sparkle atone for the lack." 



Bow Patti at fifty-Seven Retains ber Beauty. 

By Mrs. Leonard 1,. Hiu,. 

Although Mme. Adelina Patti is past the half 
century mark, she appears like a woman of thirty. 
Her skin is without a wrinkle, her complexion clear 
and healthy, her physique strong and active. How 
does she accomplish this miracle, ask her friends. 
Has she found the fountain of perpetual youth? 

To an intimate admirer, Mrs. Leonard L. Hill, 
recently returned from a visit to the great diva's 
Welsh castle, Craig-y-nos, the famous songstress 
imparted the secret of her youthful appearance. An 
Evening World reporter received from Mrs. Hill 
at her sumptuous home, the recipes used by the 
"Queen of Wales'' in preserving her beauty far be- 
yond the time when most American women show 
the crows' feet and wrinkles of middle age. 

"When I visited Mme. Patti Cederstrom," said 
Mrs. Hill, "I found her at the little railroad station 
on her own estates to meet me. I was surprised 
at her youthful appearance and her extraordinary 
beauty. Afterward I learned the magic she em- 
ployed. 

"Every morning she gets up at 8:30, takes a bath 
and a short walk in her gardens. At nine or a little 

265 



266 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

after she eats a light breakfast consisting of fruit 
and rolls. 

"While she is eating her maids arrange her hair 
and she looks over her mail and determines on her 
evening engagements. Then she writes a few let- 
ters and practises a half hour on scales. Only 
twice in thirty years has she omitted this exercise. 

"At eleven she is ready for a walk. Weather has 
no terrors for her; rain or shine, hot or cold, she 
ventures out just the same. When it is pouring, 
she can be seen in a long mackintosh reaching 
nearly to the ground, high rubber boots and an old 
slouch hat on her head, sauntering off for a few 
miles' walk. 

"When she walks she walks, and most American 
girls would be put to shame trying to keep pace 
with her. She does not pull her collar over her 
ears to prevent the rain from beating on her. In- 
stead, she holds her face up and delights to feel 
the rain streaming all over it. 'That is how I 
keep my fresh color,' she says, 'that is why there 
are no wrinkles around my eyes nor creases in my 
cheeks.' 

"After her walk she rests and then takes lunch 
in her conservatory. 'No coffee, tea, chocolate or 
ice-water for me,' she told me. T trace half the 
ills of you American women to such things.' I 
never saw her drink iced water. Rich foods she 
sedulously avoids, though she is fond of them. She 
is a believer in eating enough and of plain, substan- 
tial dishes. 



268 HOW PATTI RETAINS HER BEAUTY. 

"After dinner, which lasts an hour or two, she 
sings, dances or plays, and at twelve o'clock every 
night goes punctually to bed. 

"Mme. Patti is a fervent advocate of fresh air. 
She revels in it. On fair days she puts on a short 
skirt and a pair of thick and comfortable walking 
shoes and tramps miles into the hills and vales of 
Wales. 'What ails you girls?' she used to say to 
us. 'Where is your ambition, your lite? Don't 
sit about doing nothing; get into the air and walk. 
Then at my age you will be as rosy and healthy as I 
am, and not broken down and suffering with all 
sorts of complaints.' She took us to the village 
and ordered us heavy shoes, but no one could keep 
up with her. 

"Although she allows no cards in her house, she 
joins in all kinds of children's games. There is ex- 
ercise in them, she declares, and that is what the 
body needs. Like all singers, she avoids draughts, 
but she can't get into the air often enough. Cos- 
metics she abhors. 

"Her voice is as fresh and tuneful now as when 
she sang years ago. The great English doctor, 
Sir Morell Mackenzie, told her that on account of 
her excellent care of herself she would sing at 
eighty as well as she did at forty. Tl>e woman 
who commands $5,000 every time she sings and 
looks twenty-five years old attributes her youth, 
her health, her splendid constitution and figure to 
a sensible and simple observance of nature's laws.'' 



Care of the Skin. 

By Albert Turner. 

There are in the skin of a full grown man of av- 
erage size about 7,000,000 pores. Each has its 
tiny little tube and its gland or fountain apparatus, 
which sends out the perspiration; the aggregate 
length of all would be as much as twenty-five miles, 
and if the skin is in proper condition these will 
throw off daily as muchr'as two pounds of refuse 
matter. This should certainly show us the impor- 
tance of keeping this great purifying system in 
good condition, which cannot be done simply by. 
wetting the body and drying it, the doing of which 
daily and nothing more may have a positively injuri- 
ous effect, for the cold water often simply softens 
the waxy, oily secretions, which are not removed, 
but rubbed down on the skin, clogging the pores 
and so obstructing them. To prevent this, before 
the water bath always give the entire surface of the 
body a dry rub with a suitable brush; it is better 
than a cloth or sponge, as it will take, up the accu- 
mulated secretions from the surface of the skin. A 
new quilted hair brush has been found most excel- 
lent for this purpose; if it is a little coarse or harsh 
at first for a sensitive skin it can be softened by 
using a few times in the wet bath, and it will be sur- 

269 



270 CARE OF THF SKIN. 

prising the amount of dust which will accumulate 
in the brush, which can be kept clean by shaking it 
out. This dry bath may often to advantage take 
the place of the water bath, and if it is used in the 
morning on rising and at night before retiring it 
will keep the skin in a clean, healthy condition, 
with a soft, rosy glow, which will extend to the face 
as well as the body from a general healthy activity. 
In addition to the air and tub bath, the cabinet 
thermal or hot air bath can often be used very ad- 
vantageously. This will thoroughly open pores 
that may have become clogged, and where the skin 
is inactive this will be found almost indispensable 
for a proper condition, and it will most effectually 
purify the system and so prevent pimples and erup- 
tions. When the skin of the body is negelcted acne 
and pimples are especially likely to show on the 
face, as the pores are more likely to be kept open 
here than other parts of the body, giving a chance 
for the impurities to escape. Ladies will find this 
bath an aid to beauty as well as to health, promot- 
ing a good complexion, and the use of the bath will 
also produce elasticity of muscles and give grace by 
overcoming stiffness in movements. It is often 
used advantageously in cases of rheumatic troubles 
and also in connection with the rollers for the re- 
duction of flesh. The cabinet is made so as to fold 
compactly, and the bath can be taken in one's own 
room. 



Bow to be Beautiful. 

By Rachel Swain, M. D. 
" As a man thinketh so is he.' ' 

This text carries the mind into fields of thought 
three-fold in character; physical, intellectual and 
spiritual. The body is recognized as possessing 
certain characteristics; and as having requirements 
for its maintenance, its growth and change; all of 
which are conducive to its health, development and 
beauty. It must have nourishment, exercise and 
environment, each tempered with all the judgment 
and skill that a master can possess. Though the 
laws which govern the existence of man are as fixed 
as are the laws of chemistry or electricity, or the 
solar system, yet the mere: knowledge of their exist- 
ence will not enable him to live well, to be vigorous 
and strong without knowing how to apply them, or 
such of them as he can make his own in his habits 
of daily life. Physical strength is one of the re- 
quirements necessary for the building of character. 
This comes through the application of the laws of 
health from day to day till their observance be- 
comes a habit of the system. When the habit is 
once formed the application becomes easy even in 
small things; and these help to make up the physi- 
cal character. Character or lack of it is seen in the 
face; the face is said to be a tablet on which a 
man's actions and thoughts are written; a glass 

271 



272 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

through which his spiritual and intellectual nature 
shines. Good physical inheritance and proper train- 
ing, with the formation of health habits, give a 
foundation for the building of intellectual character, 
character which may have strength and morality; 
this is education, which is limited only by time and 
circumstance. Then follows the spiritual growth 
which transcends all that goes before; it is the flow- 
er that beautifies and refines, gives charm to the 
rugged work of life, it smooths the paths that are 
hard to tread, and gives radiance to the face as the 
setting sun gives halo to a cloudless sky. To re- 
turn to the physical part of this discussion and to 
the facial expression, is to add, that beautiful 
thoughts and feelings beautify the face and lend a 
charm much to. be coveted. 

A soft rose tinted cuticle may be seen along the 
moist coast of the United Kingdom of England and 
Scotland; or a pink and white complexion where 
there is continued moisture in some parts of the 
Eastern States. But these rose tints are much more 
difficult to preserve under the scorching rays of a 
southern sun, or amid the piercing winds of the 
western praires. 

Fortunes have been made in the traffic of cos- 
metics, most of which are worthless, and large sums 
of money are annually spent for beautifiers; but 
none are so good or so lasting as a good nervous 
system, kept in good repair by a generous supply 
of plain nutritious food, with moderate exercise in 
out-door air. This will use up the food, make good 



HOW TO BE BEAUTIFUL. 273 

blood, without which the brain and nervous system 
are comparatively powerless. Unhealthful food, or 
food that cannot be assimilated may give a flat, 
flabby muscle, or it may make the face lean or pale, 
with furrows or blotches and a pallor that is an in- 
dex to imperfect secretions and ultimate bad 
health. Cleanliness inside and out is a great aid to 
digestion and good health. Any pimples, blotches. 
or wrinkles that steal out through imperfect or 
feeble digestion, or through worry, may be removed 
by removing the cause, and by the use of fomenta- 
tions to. the face before retiring at night. After 
thus cleansing the face in hot water, wipe dry and 
rub gently with the palm of the hand. Use cold 
water to wash with in the morning - , and brush with 
rice powder before going into the wind or dust. 
Absorb the moisture from the atmosphere by an 
hour's ride every morning on horseback, on a bi- 
cycle or in an open electric car, this would in the 
space of three months give oxidation enough to 
the blood to bring color to the cheeks and the lips. 
An abundant use of bread made of whole wheat 
meal will also give richness to the blood. Rice 
eaten ■ without sugar is highly recommended for 
plumpness; but avoid pastries and sweetmeats. 
The little worries or pin-pricks of life are perhaps 
as destructive to health, beauty and longevity, as 
are the great sorrows and losses that lie in the paths 
of most people. Reasonable people expect afflic- 
tions, expect sorrow to overtake them in one way 
or another or in some time or other, but knowing 



274 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

the great laws of compensation they bear up if not 
cheerfully, at least with tranquility. A healthy 
mind will have the fortitude to bear with resigna- 
tion an almost overwhelming grief, and in time re- 
act without great injury to health or the mental 
state. 

The habit of encouraging worries and griefs tends 
to weaken some parts of the organic physical struct- 
ure, which thus becomes a prey upon itself, and 
does not present an admirable character in the eyes 
of others. Courage and strength, physical health 
and beauty, lie in self-containment. Is there any 
better way to escape the worries of life than to be 
determined not to worry? 

A great and generous heart gives expression to 
the features; thoughts that reach out for the im- 
provement of humanity, words that are spoken to 
heal the wounded heart, the language of help in 
word or deed, these mould the face, enrich the un- 
derstanding and shape the head more effectually 
than brush or chisel. 

Beauty of person in face and figure is well worth 
cultivating; it carries with it a commanding pres- 
ence, a power to charm others, to attract or win 
them. It enables its possessor to lift others to a 
higher level, higher atainments. The desire to be 
beautiful is natural; it brings with it the idea of 
health and strength; it stimulates aspiration, and 
is in harmony with hygiene and health. 

'"Our bodies echo the voice of our minds." 

From Health Hints. 



fiitm in Beauty Culture* 

Compiled from Health-Culture. 

The woman with the frail physique, soft muscle- 
less hand, and remarkable fainting ability, is not 
the woman of to-day. Such were the objects of 
chivalry in feudal ages, but it was homage to weak- 
ness. 

Who has the ability to convince women that 
fresh air and exercise are the greatest promoters 
of beauty? 

Our English and Scotch sisters w#lk miles in 
whatever weather, and flourish like their own Eng- 
lish ivy or Scotch heather. 

There is nothing so effective toward freshness 
and elasticity of the skin as contact with damp 
atmosphere. 

But this or any other manner of exercise is un- 
enjoyable and unprofitable taken in tight clothing, 
long, heavy skirts; tight, high-heeled shoes. 

And women, too, are apt to forget that motion, 
not strain, constitutes exercise for health, and that 
running up and down stairs, turning mattresses and 
riding bicycles to excess are not proper exercise. 

Corsets, tight bands around the waist and circles 
of elastic above or below the knee, and even tight 
collars and tight sleeves, are responsible for cold ex- 
tremities, blotched complexions and lack of energy. 

275 



276 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

The muscles of the back, loins and abdomen have 
become weakened by disuse, and what harmony of 
the uses of the body can we expect when those very 
important activities are interrupted? 

Do you feel like falling to pieces without your 
corset? That means that the muscles have had in- 
sufficient demand upon them, and have become 
incapable of sustaining the body without help. 
- Adopt some reliable system of exercises, follow 
the rules, be thorough in your practice, wearing a 
health waist, and see how quickly the muscles will 
respond to the call upon them, and how the increase 
of circulation will bring the glow to the face and 
the light to the eye. 

Those who are victims of stooped shoulders, a 
narrow flat* chest, should loosen their clothing, 
practice deep breathing, and keep in mind the rule, 
"raise the chest/' and they will soon obtain correct 
poise of the body, surprising in its effects in im- 
proving the general appearance. 

When the muscles are sore or too weak to take 
the exercise prescribed by your teacher or book, get 
Dr. Forest's Massage Rollers, and use them or 
have some one use them for you, according to di- 
rections, and the strength will come to the weak- 
ened parts in a surprisingly short time. They are 
giving rest and strength and sleep to thousands. 

Margaret Saunders, in Demorest's Magazine, 
says : — 

"A Massage Roller in the hands of a bright and 
persistent woman is worth its weight in gold." 

Regular bathing, the frequency depending upon 



HINTS IN BEAUTY CULTURE. 277 

the vitality of the individual, is a positive command 
to those who would be beautiful. 

The cold sponge bath can be taken every morn- 
ing upon rising with pronounced benefit by all ex- 
cept those whose low vitality prohibits. Follow 
with a vigorous rub with a rough towel or brush, 
and few are the cases where the effect is not de- 
lightful and stimulating. 

An air bath, in which the entire body is exposed 
to the air, with vigorous friction by the use of a 
quilted hair, or other suitable brush, will tend to 
promote a healthy and a soft and beautiful skin, 
and may often be substituted for the cold morning 
bath or precede it. 

Every woman should take time to eat properly; 
hasty swallowing of food is to blame for much of 
constipation, and constipation is to blame for nine- 
tenths of the cases of female diseases. 

Use proper food, eat coarse bread, plenty of fruit 
— cooked if digestion is weak. Eat sparingly of 
meat — avoid pork. Eat nutritious rather than 
stimulating food. 

Be cautious with coffee and let tea alone. No 
drink is so drying, so depleting to the tissues of the 
skin as tea. Some women are as confirmed slaves 
to the tea habit as any drunkard to his whiskey. 

Pimples are nearly always caused by some inter- 
nal derangement, but are sometimes dispelled by 
dusting the face with flowers of sulphur while yet 
damp after washing. 

When skin nourishment is needed, wash the face 



278 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

well the last thing at night in pure soap and warm 
water, then rub a bit of "H. C." Skin Food into the 
surface, and it will absorb and nourish the tissues 
while you sleep. A coarse or common cream will 
only clog the pores, as they are not able to dispose 
of such grease as they are made of. 

Try rubbing into sunburned skins as much 
"H. C." Skin Food as it will take, upon retiring at 
night. Get up once or twice during the night and 
rub in some more, as the skin literally drinks it, 
when in the condition mentioned. 

Try the same remedy for the chafing so common 
to fleshy persons. It will cure you in one night, 
and render the skin less easy to chafe again. 

''A good complexion," Stella Stuart says, "must 
grow from within out. A coated skin and clear 
skin do not journey long together. The girl who 
is in earnest will cut off pastry, confectionery, cake, 
hot bread and all greasy food from her bill of fare. 
She will pay strict attention to the well-known laws 
of hygiene, and live largely upon a vegetable and 
fruit diet. Highly seasoned foods and all stimu- 
lants must be rigidly tabooed." 

Women who are discouraged with their efforts to 
reduce a too prominent abdomen will find great 
benefit in cultivating a proper poise of the body. 
She who finds a comfortable balance when settled 
firmly upon her heels, with the whole weight of up- 
per body upon the small of the back, will continue 
to worry over the fact that her bodice is so much 
longer waisted in the back than in front. If there 



HINTS IN BEAUTY CULTURE. 279 

was but one rule to offer to those whose poise was 
imperfect, it would be "raise the chest." If one 
will elevate the chest the entire body will assume its 
position. If parents will cease the mistaken ad- 
monition to their children to "Throw back your 
shoulders," and instead, say, "Raise the chest," they 
will soon see satisfactory results. 

One of the most successful business women in 
New York allows nothing to interfere with a "twen- 
ty-minutes' nap" after lunch every day. It pro- 
vides her with strength for the rest of the day. If 
any one will take a few minutes at a certain time 
every day, roll the arms, chest and small of back 
with Dr. Forrest's Massage Roller, then relax the 
entire body, and the thinking forces, too, for the 
balance of the time allotted to this recuperative 
practice — they will prove the theory to be more 
than they might imagine. Strong nerves mean 
power, and drugs in the shape of tonics are fictitious 
and do not provide that which they promise. 

For indigestion drink a pint of water on rising in 
the morning before breakfast, take the roller in 
both hands, raise the chest, stand near an open 
window so as to breathe fresh air, roll the stomach 
up and down and crosswise two or three minutes, 
and finish by rolling from the left to the right, which 
will carry the water out of the stomach into the in- 
testines, and so cleanse it of any catarrhal mucus 
that may have gathered in the night, and prepare 
it for the morning meal. This will rout dyspepsia 
in a very short time. 



280 "WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

The mind is no little factor in our looks. There 
is an old adage which reads: — "A man who marries 
a woman for her looks loves her one year; if he mar- 
ries her for her wealth, he loves her two years; but 
if he marries her for her ways, he loves her for- 
ever and aye" — an argument that the mind is to be 
credited with woman's greatest charm. 

Not a little of the cause of women's fading is al- 
lowing — yes, allowing — the mind to become a sort 
of generator for irritability and general worry. It 
is a profoundly disturbing agent, both to the mental 
and physical functions. Certain it is, the most of us 
have much to contend with, to endure, to fear, for 
"each heart knoweth its own bitterness." Pov- 
erty, or an unceasing battle against it for years, is 
almost certain to impair one's cheerfulness. 
Wrecked health is not easily restored because of its 
association with this ioy-killer. Money, ease, leis- 
ure, those three great desires of the overworked, 
have not the power to stay the hand of death, to 
avert disgrace and disaster; to give us love and sym- 
pathv but remembering that this life is but a means 
to an end, and that worry cannot help us over our 
coming trial, we should get rid of the readiness to 
suffer at the least contact with life, and meet each 
day with a bright countenance, even if assumed, and 
desire will become a prophecy, and we shall see how 
glad life is, after all. , . 

Promote the power of beauty by practising 
what vou believe and know. Be true to your tastes 
and better tendencies, and you will give joy and 
reap happiness. 



films in health Culture. 

By Albert Turner. 

Now is a good time to improve your health 
habits. 

Eat nothing that you know will hurt you in any 
way. 

Never eat more than can be easily and properly 
digested. 

Fasting for one day will often prevent a serious 
illness. 

More people in this country suffer from eating 
too much than too little. 

What does knowledge profit a man if in gaining 
it he loses his health? 

It is better not to eat fruits and vegetables at the 
same meal. 

Fruit should be a large portion of one's break- 
fast daily. 

Take exercise in the morning in the open air be- 
fore breakfast if possible. 

For constipation use the Massage Roller night 
and morning. 

Hardwood floors and rugs are better than car- 
pets in sleeping rooms. 

You can often help a nervous headache by comb- 
ing the hair gently. 

2$1 



282 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

The excessive use of salt with food will overtax 
the kidneys. 

If inclined to be nervous study to master yourself 
and exercise self-control. 

A man who cares for his health will not be likely 
to become a burden and care on others. 

Always humor the whims and fancies of the sick, 
if not injurious to their health. 

See to it that the church is well ventilated, for it 
is quite as important as the theology. 

Deep breathing, with the use of the Wilhide Ex- 
haler, will enlarge and strengthen the lungs. 

Try eating nothing but fruit one day a week (say 
Sunday) and see if you do not feel the better for it. 

Eat nothing between meals; it is better to feel 
hungry for a little while than to do it. 

If you feel too tired to work stop and rest. It is 
never safe or prudent to work beyond one's 
strength. 

See that sleeping rooms are well sunned in the 
daytime and well ventilated at night. 

Do not be afraid of night air; fresh night air is 
better than stale bottled day air. 

Cold feet can be relieved by the use of Dr. For- 
est's Massage Roller before retiring. 

Beware of the use of sweet spirits of nitre. An 
ounce taken by mistake has resulted in death. 

Do not wear clothing too warm for comfort: 
more suffer from overdressing than from lack of 
clothing. 

If your child cries try to find the cause and re- 



HINTS IN HEALTH CULTURE. 283 

lieve it; this is better than trying to soothe it into 
quietude. 

If there are dark circles around the eyes it means 
ill health; it should be immediately looked after. 

Always avoid poorly ventilated rooms and halls 
as .much as possible. The air in a crowded place of 
this kind is so much poison. 

Do noi hard work, mentally or physically, after 
the last meal of the day, but plan to spend the time 
before sleep in. light recreation. 

Eating too fast and too much, and not properly 
masticating the food is the cause of a large per- 
centage of sickness. 

It will be found helpful to take ten minutes from 
usual work and give it to light reading, and so di- 
vert and rest both mind and body. 

See that you sit erect ; do not sit forward on the 
seat, then lean against its back, so straining the 
spine and compressing the bowels. 

For a sluggish digestion massage the stomach 
and bowels thoroughly twice a day with Dr. For- 
est's Massage Rollers. 

Whenever there is an ache or a pain look for the 
cause and see that it is relieved at once. Pain is 
simply a danger signal. 

In the use of iced drinks or food, remember that 
it must be warmed to blood heat before it can enter 
into the circulation or be digested. 

Clergymen should preach the importance of 
health culture, and that it is a sin to be sick as well 
as to do the wicked things so long preached against. 

Even in cases of accident be very cautious about 



284 WOMANLY BEAUTY. 

administering brandy and other stimulants, except 
as prescribed by a skilful physician, as often it does 
much more harm than good. 

Wear linen next to the skill, as it most readily 
absorbs moisture, and wear woollen for outer gar- 
ments, for it does not, and so keeps the body dry. 

Teachers should consider themselves responsible 
for the care and growth of the body of the pupils 
placed in their charge, as well as for the mind and 
morals. 

Expose the skin of the entire body to the air in 
the morning on rising and at night before retiring, 
keeping up the circulation by the use of a suitable 
brush or a Massage Roller. 

It is well to have several pairs of shoes and never 
wear the same pair more than one clay at a time, 
and if damp a two or three days' rest will be better 
for the feet and shoes. 

Women should take five minutes a day from 
work and lie flat on the back, nil muscles related, 
with eyes closed, and it will be found a wonderful 
preserver of health, beauty and strength. 

In shopping avoid the crowded basements in 
stores where "bargain hunters'' congregate. It is 
better to pay a few cents more than to breathe the 
bad air of these "pest holes." 

A tendency to stoop and round shoulders may 
be overcome in keeping the eye ;n walking on some 
object higher than one's head, a tall man's hat. if in 
the city streets, or some point on a tree or building. 




The New Method of Facial Treatment. 



as 



Dr. forest's 
facial « 
massage 
Roller. * 



For use in preventing 1 and removing 
wrinkles and. age in the face and im- 
proving the complexion. It consists of a 
set of small wheels, each turning separ- 
ately on its axis, with bands of pure soft, 
el lslic rubber. The frame is small, but 
strong, and does not intt-rfere with its 
u e on any part of the face, and es- 
pecially around the eyes and mouth, 
where wrinkles are likely to appear. 
No. 6, made of Fhory and Ivory. .S3. 50 

No. 7, of White Maple $1.50 

With each Roller is included a copy of 
"Facial Massage" by "An Expert," fully 
illustrated, giving instructions for 
proper use , 




Dr. Forests' MoLSsacge 
Rollers. 

AN EXCESS of flesh over the abdomen and hips is undesirable 
from the standpoint of health or beauty and grace. All "Anti 
Fat » remedies should be avoided, for when effective it is 
always at the expense of health and strength, and many 
have found themselves permanently injured by the use of drugs. 

FOR REDUCTION, the most rapid and satisfactory, and the only safe 
and sure met od is the use of Dr. Forest's Masssage Rollers. These 
are made by putting in a suitable frame, a series of polished rollers or 
wooden wheels, with a soft rubber buffer on each; these turn separately, 
there is little or no friction on the skin, and they may be used over 
the underclothing by one's self, or if in the hands of another over light 
bed clothing, applying with a steady, hard pressure, the fattj cells which 
are deposited in the muscular tissues are broken down and eliminated, 
the muscles are made more firm and elastic, and there is with the re- 
duction in size, an increase in health and strength, as well as in appear- 
ance and comfort. 

A pendulous and protruding abdomen can be brouglit to place and a 
reduction of four, six or more inches about the waist or hips secured 
in a short time. Men and women who have a tendency to obesity, can 
keep themselves in good form by a few moments use of the rollers 
daily. We give the opinions of a few who have used them. 

A well known New York professional woman says :— " Two months 
ago I began the use of the massage roller, and am delighted to find 
that it has taken off a deposit of fat, and in six weeks reduced my 
measure about the hips four inches. Miss E. N. N." 

Another says :— Gentlemen, Three months ago I was "Fair, Fat and 
Forty," to-day I am "Fair, Trim and Forty," having reduced my weight 
fifteen pounds, hip and waist measure six inches. Physicians say it has 
worked wonders in my case, and pronounce the roller a good thing. 

Miss A. S. 

A scientific and literary gentlemen says :— "I have reduced my waist 
measure four inches, and feel a hundred per cent, better. I want some 
circulirs to hand to my fat friends. Do not publish my n me, as I have 
no time to answer letters about it." 

With each roller is given a copy of Dr. Forest's Manual, with full in- 
structions for use. Price, No. 5, 12 wheels, $4.00. No. 7, 8 wheels, for 
women, $3.50. 



For Good Skjn and Good Form 

use only HealtH- C\ilt\ire 
The Skin Food 

^/ind Tissue *Bxtilder 

THIS is a Cream composed of pure, fine penetrating vegetable oils, 
with ingredients that are cleansing, healing and nourishing to the 
tissues, and is very highly recommended for use on the Face, Neck 
and Bust, in connection with the Massage Rollers and Developers, for the 
prompt and healthful filling out of these parts, an I the removal of 
wrinkles and facial blemishes, and for use over the body when the skin is 
rough and dry, and should be used for healing and softening the skin 
after exposure to the sun or wind. Invaluable for sunburn, chafing, 
chapping or any roughness of skin. Its use on the feet at night will re- 
lieve all aching and prevent corns. 

Contains no animal fats or glycerine, which is used freely in many of 
the face creams sold, and the use of which will in time cause a growth of 
down or hair on the face, and the coarse, crude oils often used will cause 
an enlargement of the pores of the skin and give it a coarse appearance 
with " blackheads." 

Too much care cannot be exercised in the selection of Skin Foods or 
Creams for the face, and we would simply say of "The Health-Culture 
Skin Food." it is made from a formula that has been thoroughly tested, 
and we positively guarantee it to be as recommended. We have never re- 
ceived a complaint from one who has used it, but words of praise from 
hundreds. The following are a few from many commendations, 

Mrs. E. B. Waiman. lately of the editorial staff of the '%adies'jiHome 
Journal," says : 

" I am very much pleased with the Health-Culture Skin Food. Of the 
many, I consider it the best. I have no hesitancy in commending it. ,1 
accompany Mr. Warman on many of his wheel rides, and find it very 
soothing as well as beneficial after being exposed to the wind and sun." 
Very truly yonrs, Mrs. E. B. Warman. 

" I have used several other kinds of Skin Food that are supposed to be 
the best made, but they cannot compare with yours, which I prefer to any- 
thing else. Mrs. O. V. B. 

" The sample of Skin Food which I received is very satisfactory. It 
has a wholesome odor, and is not too highly perfumed, as most creams 
are. Enclosed you will find amount for a regular jar. Mrs. G. H. 

"Enclosed you will find express order for $2, for which you will please 
send me two jars of your H. C. Skin Food. I have used a great many 
skin foods, paying $5 for some, but yours is the best of all I have tried." 

Mrs. A. J. T. 

" I consider the H. C. Skin Food the finest I have ever used. Although 
I have only applied it a few times, there is a great improvement on my 
skin, especially on my neck. I have tried a great many. Yours is the 
best of them all." Mrs. A. H. A. 

Put up in porcelain jars and sent prepaid on receipt of price. No. I 
jar, 50 cents; No. 2, jarj containing three times as much as No. 1 . $1.00. 




Dr. Forest's 

Message 
Roller 

Consists of a series of 
wheels about i l A inches in 
diameter, earn turning 
separately and around the 
center of each is a band or 
buffer of soft elastic rub- 
ber. These are mounted 
in a suitable frame vith 
handles, and adapted for 
self treatment. In their 
use the deep tissues are 
reached, the stomach, 
bowels and liver are 
stimulated and a healthy 
condition restored. 

These have been found to be specially help- 
ful for Indigestion and Constipation. 

Read the following letters from those who have used them : 

I have used a Massage Roller since last November for chronic const!* 
stipation and soreness of the intestines. The latter trouble is now 
entirely cured, while the .. nstipation yielded almost immediately to the 
treatment. My digestion and general health are also greatly improved 
The roller is almost indispensable to me, so va uable has its use proved. 

Grace Palmer. 

Gentlemen— Having heard of the wonderful cures resulting from the 
use of the ' Massage Roller •■ in the cure of dyspepsia, and as a curative 
ageut I find the most potent drugs weak in comparison to your method of 
treatment. For any one -ufferiug with dyspepsia I unhesitatingly recom- 
mend this method of massa.e as a godsend. 

Very respectfully, W. t,. Greer. 

Gentlemen— The roller purchased of you is .simply invaluable. It is 
used for the stomach according to your instructions for indigestion, and it 
wasof great service It was also very beneficial for constipation. The 
Roller is certainly a wondei ful little invention, and I congratulate myselt 
every day that I am fortunate enough to possess one. 
Auburn N. Y. Very truly yours, W. P. Wright. 

Dear Sir— For many years I have been a great suffeter with a stomach 
trouble. I bought a Massage Roller, used it faithfully, and now I have no 
trouble with my stomach whatsoever. I eat as I will, and what I will, 
and nothing causes me any disturbance. The roller has taken away the 
soreness, whi^h was at times extreme. In my case it has saved doctors 
bills' and druggists' bills as well, which were a large item of expense 
before I began to use the rolier. Wishing you all success, 
Boston, Mass. I am yours sincerely, Mrs. X.. A. F. 

PRICES: 

Roller No. i, Six Wheels for Men and Women who are strong, $2.00. 
Roller No. 2 with Four Wheels, for Small or Weak Women, $1.50. With 
each Roller is given a free copy of Dr. Forest 's Manual of Massotherapy, 
100 pages, fully illustrated. Price, 25c. 






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